5.2 to 5.9, with an auto to manual Swap to boot.
Thanks for the shoutout Beeker!!! I actually sold the heads a week or 2 ago to a guy with a 2wd rc/sb Dakota. He's building an engine up for it and wasn't concerned about the damage. The damage from that valve was why I was selling them so cheap. Like Beeker said, they had work done to them and the machinist had checked them out.
Thanks for the shoutout Beeker!!! I actually sold the heads a week or 2 ago to a guy with a 2wd rc/sb Dakota. He's building an engine up for it and wasn't concerned about the damage. The damage from that valve was why I was selling them so cheap. Like Beeker said, they had work done to them and the machinist had checked them out.
Dean98ram1500, I still have the camshaft that's perfect for Beeker's springs, you can PM me an offer if you like. It's the Hughe's HER0814AL and I'd give you a good price. I've also got some High Performance roller lifters, but I might want to hold onto those myself
Dean98ram1500, I still have the camshaft that's perfect for Beeker's springs, you can PM me an offer if you like. It's the Hughe's HER0814AL and I'd give you a good price. I've also got some High Performance roller lifters, but I might want to hold onto those myself
I'm not disagreeing with you about head bolts, but why should I upgrade? I'm more so uninformed about the upgrade.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,479
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Your engine already has roller lifters, so there isn't any performance benefit from buying new ones, but, installing new ones sure gives a lot more peace of mind than re-installing the 100K plus mile lifters.
Air Gap is a good manifold, but, keep in mind, it was originally a carb manifold, adapted to EFI. The M1, which runs about the same price, (and, if you are determined, can find them even cheaper......) was specifically designed for EFI motors, and actually flows better than the Hughes manifold as well. (not to mention its a slightly easier install, no messing with the crossover tube at the rear of the fuel rails.)
Air Gap is a good manifold, but, keep in mind, it was originally a carb manifold, adapted to EFI. The M1, which runs about the same price, (and, if you are determined, can find them even cheaper......) was specifically designed for EFI motors, and actually flows better than the Hughes manifold as well. (not to mention its a slightly easier install, no messing with the crossover tube at the rear of the fuel rails.)
Your engine already has roller lifters, so there isn't any performance benefit from buying new ones, but, installing new ones sure gives a lot more peace of mind than re-installing the 100K plus mile lifters.
Air Gap is a good manifold, but, keep in mind, it was originally a carb manifold, adapted to EFI. The M1, which runs about the same price, (and, if you are determined, can find them even cheaper......) was specifically designed for EFI motors, and actually flows better than the Hughes manifold as well. (not to mention its a slightly easier install, no messing with the crossover tube at the rear of the fuel rails.)
Air Gap is a good manifold, but, keep in mind, it was originally a carb manifold, adapted to EFI. The M1, which runs about the same price, (and, if you are determined, can find them even cheaper......) was specifically designed for EFI motors, and actually flows better than the Hughes manifold as well. (not to mention its a slightly easier install, no messing with the crossover tube at the rear of the fuel rails.)
But oh I didn't know that. I might have to kick the airgap to the curb then.
I hate asking such a generic question, but with my build will I have more power? I always thought the M1 to be more of a low end manifold and the AirGap a high end.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Guess you didnt click the link in the post where I asked about the intake.
That is what Hey You is talking to. Get educated on your package.
What are you building for anyway? Street, strip, heavy duty, ?
That is what Hey You is talking to. Get educated on your package.
What are you building for anyway? Street, strip, heavy duty, ?
Building a street application.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,479
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Given that your truck is 4x4, and by the looks of your sig pic, you actually take it off road..... You want low-end grunt. The M1 actually IS more designed for upper RPM power, FAR more so than the kegger..... and yes, if that was the ONLY change you made, you would lose some low end. BUT, as you are doing 'other stuff' as well, you will end up with more low-power than what you have now..... PLUS, you will have decent power up thru the mid range, and possibly in the upper RPM range to some extent as well.
When you step on the go-pedal, you WILL notice a difference.
When you step on the go-pedal, you WILL notice a difference.
Given that your truck is 4x4, and by the looks of your sig pic, you actually take it off road..... You want low-end grunt. The M1 actually IS more designed for upper RPM power, FAR more so than the kegger..... and yes, if that was the ONLY change you made, you would lose some low end. BUT, as you are doing 'other stuff' as well, you will end up with more low-power than what you have now..... PLUS, you will have decent power up thru the mid range, and possibly in the upper RPM range to some extent as well.
When you step on the go-pedal, you WILL notice a difference.
When you step on the go-pedal, you WILL notice a difference.
I do like to have low-end, on the occasional boat tow or especially when cruising on the highway.
The only part of that thread I was lost about is when they talked about EGR. I don't really understand that. I know its a Exhaust Gas Recirculation, but not sure if I will require it or not. Pretty significant price difference between the EGR and Non-EGR.
