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Wheel Stud Replacement/install on 2001 4x4???

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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Default Wheel Stud Replacement/install on 2001 4x4???

I searched for a thread and couldn't find anything that would load on my computer. Sorry if this has been covered which im sure that it has.

I have a 2001 quad cab 4x4 and i need to replace all the wheel studs on the front passenger side wheel hub. The previous owner said the wheel shook violently and broke all the studs off and now i need to replace them. I think that he didnt tighten the lug nuts when he changed the brakes and rotors.

I picked it up for $1,500. He said that he thought that it was an axle issue and didnt want to fix it. So far i think that its just lack of tightening the nuts and the wheel shaking violently and breaking them. i dont feel any play in the steering or hub, everything seems fine so far. Does anyone know the process of replacing the wheel studs? They are unfortunatly AutoZone bought replacments.

Do i need to remove the 1" 11/16 Hub nut and take that disc off that the studs get pressed into and pound them in from the back of the hub disc?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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you need to remove the hub, the studs are splined from back of hub into the rotor, in order to get rotor off you must beat out or press out the studs, there isn't much room behind the hub to get the studs completely out, loosen axle nut perferably before you remove the brakes " makes it easier " having some hold the brakes while busting it loose. also behind the hub you will find 3 or 4 12 point bolts holding the hub in place. you will need a puller for the hub, Unless they have been replaced before and someone was kind of thoughtful and never seized the area before reinstalling them. Knock out old studs and replace with the new ones. That axle nut If I remember correctly is torqued to 210 foot pounds, I can make sure tomorrow on torque spec, unless some here knows off the top of there heads the torque spec
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 2damnyankee
you need to remove the hub, the studs are splined from back of hub into the rotor, in order to get rotor off you must beat out or press out the studs, there isn't much room behind the hub to get the studs completely out, loosen axle nut perferably before you remove the brakes " makes it easier " having some hold the brakes while busting it loose. also behind the hub you will find 3 or 4 12 point bolts holding the hub in place. you will need a puller for the hub, Unless they have been replaced before and someone was kind of thoughtful and never seized the area before reinstalling them. Knock out old studs and replace with the new ones. That axle nut If I remember correctly is torqued to 210 foot pounds, I can make sure tomorrow on torque spec, unless some here knows off the top of there heads the torque spec
His 1500 is dramatically different from your 2500. (I am in the same boat as you.....)

For the 1500, should be able to just take the rotor off, (don't expect it to just slide right off.... even though it might.....) knock the studs out, and use a couple sacrificial nuts to draw the new ones in.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 10:07 PM
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Heyou yeah I wasn't sure on the 1500 but I figured they should have been something the same. Oh well I tried.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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okay so i dont need too take loose the axle nut and remove the part that the studs are pressed in? just get some nuts from the hardware store and sacrifice them to pull the studs in flush?

ive got the rotor and everything off just need to know how too properly install the studs now. Thanks for the help guys!
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 05:09 PM
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Yep, I use a thick washer, some grease, and the aforementioned sacrificial nut. (and an impact wrench....... though a ratchet will work.)
 
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Old May 2, 2015 | 12:48 PM
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Put them in the freezer over night, The diameter will shrink a bit making them easier to install.
 
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Old May 2, 2015 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
Put them in the freezer over night, The diameter will shrink a bit making them easier to install.
That is an excellent suggestion. I had forgotten about that particular trick.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 11:17 PM
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Got it you guys! Thanks for the great ideas! Now i just need help figuring out why my brakes are still spongy. My wife and I bled the brakes for a good 20-30min and it got too the point where it wasnt getting any better... Any suggestions?
 
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Old May 5, 2015 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Distantassassin
Got it you guys! Thanks for the great ideas! Now i just need help figuring out why my brakes are still spongy. My wife and I bled the brakes for a good 20-30min and it got too the point where it wasnt getting any better... Any suggestions?

Did you bleed them by starting with the passenger side rear, then the driver's side rear, then passenger side front, then driver's side front, all the while making sure the brake fluid doesn't drop too low while bleeding? Also, have you checked to ensure that your rear long metal brake line (near the gas tank) isn't leaking, as they are famous for rusting out along the frame near the rear of the gas tank.


By the way, when you have a moment, please update your profile to include your truck's information (is it a 1500, 2500, etc, 2WD or 4WD, any modifications, etc.)
 

Last edited by AtomicDog; May 5, 2015 at 12:13 AM.
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