Ok, so I posted a view days ago about how my trans would not shift down to first blah blah blah. With new VB and stuff. Y'all recommended new speed sensor that didn't fix.

Anyways today, I got off the phone with the trans shop that had done they work. The issue is being caused by the wiring that goes from the trans to the PCM. The middle connection out the three is bad or wiring in it is damaged somehow. If bend and move the wires around the connection becomes good again.

My question to you guys is can anyone help me find the wiring harness? And is the harness complete or are they three separate harnesses that run to the PCM? I could handle the job of wiring the middle plug to the trans, but im not sure if I could tackle the whole system.

The truck is a 98.5 24v 2wd. If anyone needs more info the help with finding the wiring let me know. Kinda bummed I've dropped $800 into the trans for an electrical issue..

Anyways, A big thanks in advance for any knowledge this forum is awesome!

 

I'd peel the chunk of harness open where it's got a fault and splice that individual wire. You may be able to pull the individual pin and take it to the dealer and have them match up a new pin, if the break is too close to the connector for a repair.

 

Well ya see I was preferring new if possible, and idk where the break is at the moment.

 

You want to replace an entire harness, for one bad wire? Seems a tad overkill to me, and a LOT of work..... If you know which wire it is, just replace as much of it as you can reach.

 

The break is going to be where the fault occurs when you do the wiggle test. I'd start peeling the loom and looking for it. Shoot, look at the diagram and see what color the offending wire is, open the loom/tape and give that wire a gentle tug.

 

If you want to replace the wire harness or connector. You would need to one, cut a harness from a wrecked vehicle or two order a complete harness. I would hook a gauge in the pressure ports and see what the pressures are and the cause of not down shifting into 1st. 1998 or 1998 1/2 has a 47re transmission. Does your transmission have the governor inside the transmission or is it part of the kick down throttle?

 

Hydraulic test pressures range from a low of one psi (6.895 kPa) governor pressure, to 300 psi (2068 kPa) at the rear servo pressure port in reverse.

An accurate tachometer and pressure test gauges are required. Test Gauge C-3292 has a 100 psi range and is used at the accumulator, governor, and front servo ports. Test Gauge C-3293-SP has a 300 psi range and is used at the rear servo and overdrive ports where pressures exceed 100 psi.

Pressure Test Port Locations

Test ports are located at both sides of the transmission case

Line pressure is checked at the accumulator port on the right side of the case. The front servo pressure port is at the right side of the case just behind the filler tube opening.

The rear servo and governor pressure ports are at the right rear of the transmission case. The overdrive clutch pressure port is at the left rear of the case.

Pressure Test Port Locations
.
Test One - Transmission In Manual Low

NOTE: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation, and condition of the rear clutch and servo circuit. Both test gauges are required for this test.
1.Connect tachometer to engine. Position tachometer so it can be observed from driver seat if helper will be operating engine. Raise vehicle on hoist that will allow rear wheels to rotate freely.
2.Connect 100 psi Gauge C-3292 to accumulator port. Then connect 300 psi Gauge C-3293-SP to rear servo port.
3.Disconnect throttle and gearshift cables from levers on transmission valve body manual shaft.
4.Have helper start and run engine at 1000 rpm.
5.Move transmission shift lever fully forward into 1 range.
6.Gradually move transmission throttle lever from full forward to full rearward position and note pressures on both gauges: ◦Line pressure at accumulator port should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttle lever forward and gradually increase to 90-96 psi (621-662 kPa) as throttle lever is moved rearward.
◦Rear servo pressure should be same as line pressure within 3 psi (20.68 kPa)


Test Two - Transmission In 2 Range

NOTE: This test checks pump output, line pressure and pressure regulation. Use 100 psi Test Gauge C-3292 for this test.
1.Leave vehicle in place on hoist and leave Test Gauge C-3292 connected to accumulator port.
2.Have helper start and run engine at 1000 rpm.
3.Move transmission shift lever one detent rearward from full forward position. This is 2 range.
4.Move transmission throttle lever from full forward to full rearward position and read pressure on gauge.
5.Line pressure should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttle lever forward and gradually increase to 90-96 psi (621-662 kPa) as lever is moved rearward.

Test Three - Transmission In D Range Third Gear

NOTE: This test checks pressure regulation and condition of the clutch circuits. Both test gauges are required for this test.
1.Turn OD switch off.
2.Leave vehicle on hoist and leave Gauge C-3292 in place at accumulator port.
3.Move Gauge C-3293-SP over to front servo port for this test.
4.Have helper start and run engine at 1600 rpm for this test.
5.Move transmission shift lever two detents rearward from full forward position. This is D range.
6.Read pressures on both gauges as transmission throttle lever is gradually moved from full forward to full rearward position: ◦Line pressure at accumulator in D range third gear, should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttle lever forward and increase as lever is moved rearward.
◦Front servo pressure in D range third gear, should be within 3 psi (21 kPa) of line pressure up to kickdown point.


Test Four - Transmission In Reverse

NOTE: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. Use 300 psi Test Gauge C-3293-SP for this test.
1.Leave vehicle on hoist and leave gauge C3292 in place at accumulator port.
2.Move 300 psi Gauge C-3293-SP back to rear servo port.
3.Have helper start and run engine at 1600 rpm for test.
4.Move transmission shift lever four detents rearward from full forward position. This is Reverse range.
5.Move transmission throttle lever fully forward then fully rearward and note reading at Gauge C-3293-SP.
6.Pressure should be 145 - 175 psi (1000-1207 kPa) with throttle lever forward and increase to 230 - 280 psi (1586-1931 kPa) as lever is gradually moved rearward.

Test Five - Governor Pressure

NOTE: This test checks governor operation by measuring governor pressure response to changes in vehicle speed. It is usually not necessary to check governor operation unless shift speeds are incorrect or if the transmission will not downshift. The test should be performed on the road or on a hoist that will allow the rear wheels to rotate freely.
1.Move 100 psi Test Gauge C-3292 to governor pressure port.
2.Move transmission shift lever two detents rearward from full forward position. This is D range.
3.Have helper start and run engine at curb idle speed. Then firmly apply service brakes so wheels will not rotate.
4.Note governor pressure: ◦Governor pressure should be no more than 20.6 kPa (3 psi) at curb idle speed and wheels not rotating.
◦If pressure exceeds 20.6 kPa (3 psi), a fault exists in governor pressure control system.

5.Release brakes, slowly increase engine speed, and observe speedometer and pressure test gauge (do not exceed 30 mph on speedometer) Governor pressure should increase in proportion to vehicle speed. Or approximately 6.89 kPa (1 psi) for every 1 mph.
6.Governor pressure rise should be smooth and drop back to no more than 20.6 kPa (3 psi), after engine returns to curb idle and brakes are applied to prevent wheels from rotating.
7.Compare results of pressure test with analysis chart.

Test Six - Transmission In Overdrive Fourth Gear

NOTE: This test checks line pressure at the overdrive clutch in fourth gear range. Use 300 psi Test Gauge C-3292 for this test. The test should be performed on the road or on a chassis dyno.
1.Remove tachometer; it is not needed for this test.
2.Move 300 psi Gauge to overdrive clutch pressure test port. Then remove other gauge and reinstall test port plug.
3.Lower vehicle.
4.Turn OD switch on.
5.Secure test gauge so it can be viewed from drivers seat.
6.Start engine and shift into D range.
7.Increase vehicle speed gradually until 3-4 shift occurs and note gauge pressure.
8.Pressure should be 469-496 kPa (68-72 psi) with closed throttle and increase to 620-827 kPa (90-120 psi) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Note that pressure can increase to around 896 kPa (130 psi) at full throttle.
9.Return to shop or move vehicle off chassis dyno.
PRESSURE TEST ANALYSIS CHART



TEST CONDITION

INDICATION

Line pressure OK during any one test Pump and regulator valve OK
Line pressure OK in R but low in D, 2, 1 Leakage in rear clutch area (seal rings, clutch seals)
Pressure low in D Fourth Gear Range Overdrive clutch piston seal, or check ball problem
Pressure OK in 1, 2 but low in D3 and R Leakage in front clutch area
Pressure OK in 2 but low in R and 1 Leakage in rear servo
Front servo pressure low in 2 Leakage in servo; broken servo ring or cracked servo piston
Pressure low in all positions Clogged filter, stuck regulator valve, worn or faulty pump, low oil level
Governor pressure too high at idle speed Governor pressure solenoid valve system fault. Refer to diagnostic book.
Governor pressure low at all mph figures Faulty governor pressure solenoid, transmission control module, or governor pressure sensor
Lubrication pressure low at all throttle positions Clogged fluid cooler or lines, seal rings leaking, worn pump bushings, pump, clutch retainer, or clogged filter.
Line pressure high Output shaft plugged, sticky regulator valve
Line pressure low Sticky regulator valve, clogged filter,

 

The GP is inside the trans. Have brand new VB so it is definitely wiring. It messes up when the wire gets somewhat out of whack. Wiggle and push the wires on the middle plug on the PCM and problem goes away. And if Im having a problem with part of harness I'd rather replace the whole thing so it is all new. I just didn't know if anyone had a site where it would be cheaper than buying from the stealership.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Have you pulled the plug off, and cleaned all the contacts? Think I would start there.

 

Yes I have it is clean. It is definitely the wire for the GP that is causing the issue.w