Yep.. Thanks for helping me try to sort this out.. Another problem I have is the speedo and tach seem to be off.. It sounds like it's idling perfect but the tach shows 1050 rpms. I been around dodge my whole life and it sure don't sound like it's at that rpm. And the speedo is about 10 mph off.. I can be barely rolling and it shows im doing 20

 

Negative--the reverse is the rear Band, which is typically has an unslotted and thicker steel, as well as heavier thicker, tan light brownish or charcoal colored friction compound.
The front band has a thinner slotted backer steel, thinner more flexible rust or barn RED friction compound

TBH unless the band is TOTALLY TRASHED You can't get a good enough look at it with the VB in place anyway.

Front Band is adjustable externally, Rear Band is Not. This also indicates a Band that may require frequent or repeat adjusting (used More)
Compared to a Band that is more likely a set it and forget it.

TRUST ME I just finished a 3 month Hell dealing with My own 46RE https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-stumped.html
It originally started as you described (3k shifting) READ CAREFULLY--and CHECK Everything to save YOURSELF from some Hell.

When I opened it Due to 3K shifting that lead into only shifting @4K by throwing into Neutral then back into Drive
I found ALL the following in No specific order other that the one I remembered to list them--

1. Busted Reverse Servo pin (Dodge made the mistake of using aluminum/replaced with Billet Steel)
2. Front band with No friction compound left on it
3. Rear band chewed up from front band debris
4. Clogged VB,
5. Broken accumulator spring (the one inside the VB under the 6 screw cover)
6. Front Shaft Main seal leaking
7. Tail shaft seal leaking

In the process of replacing parts to making repairs, and leading to dropping the tranny a second time

1. I 'naded the Main case with a OD Sprag/reverse Drum failure
2. The Gov sensor and Transducer fouled (should have been replaced while open)
3. Discovered the Crank PS had damaged wiring/ or caused it lining the case back up to the block

Since finishing the 46RE CORRECTLY, and replaced the output Shaft Sensor I have had No issues with it.

I have on the other hand put some exhaust work into it.
NOW it keeps throwing a code for the Downstream (post Cat) O2 Sensor.
I had a new spare one so I disconnected the Batt and popped it in and it still throws OBD code (P0138)

 

I have replaced the solenoids and the spring you mention. All bands looked good while I had the valve body off.. Cleaned it real well after I took it apart. Replace the OSS and vss sensors. Not leaking any fluid. The drums and bands looked great when I had the vb off. I am just stumped.. I think it's the pcm since the tachometer and speedometer is not reading correctly

 

Did somebody replace the dash faces? Doing so can throw them off if you dont replace the needles in the same position. What year is this truck? You may what to check pressures on the trans it will give you more to go on along with a scanner that reads live data.

http://www.atraonline.com/manuals/se...0/2000_154.pdf

 

1996..and yea the dash face has been changed before I got it.. The needles also go way past the factory resting point because the little dials they rest on its gone

 

But the guy I bought it from said it was shifting at the correct rpm

 

Sounds like the simplest answer is you got a decent truck, decent AT, with an instrument cluster that apparently wasn't idiot proof enough.

 

How would I go about changing it back to factory?

 

Grab another from the junkyard, and swap 'em out.

 

That would probably be the best way.
The only issue is You then Have an Odom that is incorrect mileage for the vehicle.

Personally If everything WORKS correctly, I would get one for spare parts and rebuild the current one.
Resetting the tach needle would be the easy part.......at least for Me.

I know my 5.9 idles at 900-1K cold, but drops to exactly 600 RPM once it done warmed up.
Resetting the Speedo would be trickier, but I would employ one of those radar operated speed displays that you find near road work zones.

Since just about every School Zone in my area has those, the had part would be getting the speedo precise, but with the sign reading and the speedo reading all that would be left is split for difference and reset needle.