Lifting Engine for Oil Pan Replacement?
#1
Lifting Engine for Oil Pan Replacement?
Hello,
So I have a few repairs, maintenance items to take care of on my 1994 RAM 2500 5.9L Magnum 4x4. I have to replace the water pump, replace leaking valve cover gaskets, replace the wires, plugs, distributor and distributor cap, and the biggest one, replace the leaky oil pan. I have read a lot of posts about replacing the oil pan with lifting or not lifting the motor. Seem like if you have access to a hoist lifting the motor is the way to go. Now this might be a stupid question and I apologies in advance, I have access to an engine hoist but never used one, where would be the best location to attach the lifting chains to? I know you can get a lift plate and attach it to the spot where the throttle body mounts? But are you better off connecting to the front of the engine seeing where you are not completely removing the engine just lifting it up a bit?
Thanks in advance.
So I have a few repairs, maintenance items to take care of on my 1994 RAM 2500 5.9L Magnum 4x4. I have to replace the water pump, replace leaking valve cover gaskets, replace the wires, plugs, distributor and distributor cap, and the biggest one, replace the leaky oil pan. I have read a lot of posts about replacing the oil pan with lifting or not lifting the motor. Seem like if you have access to a hoist lifting the motor is the way to go. Now this might be a stupid question and I apologies in advance, I have access to an engine hoist but never used one, where would be the best location to attach the lifting chains to? I know you can get a lift plate and attach it to the spot where the throttle body mounts? But are you better off connecting to the front of the engine seeing where you are not completely removing the engine just lifting it up a bit?
Thanks in advance.
#2
I usually will use bolts on the front of the cylinder heads to lift the engine up a bit. Here is a pic from when I was replacing an oil pump on one of my Trans Ams:
I unbolted the chain on one side so I could work on everything and it's not shown in the picture, but you can probably get the idea of how I did it, haha!
I unbolted the chain on one side so I could work on everything and it's not shown in the picture, but you can probably get the idea of how I did it, haha!
#3
Thank you very much TSU_Delta_Chi! Nice picture too, that helps.
I thought of taking a shot at pulling the motor out but Im a little frightened of doing that. Never pulled a motor. The biggest thing that scares me about that is reconnecting it to the Tranny when putting it back in. Is that a nightmare?
I thought of taking a shot at pulling the motor out but Im a little frightened of doing that. Never pulled a motor. The biggest thing that scares me about that is reconnecting it to the Tranny when putting it back in. Is that a nightmare?
#4
As long as I remove the inspection cover mine slides right out no lifting engine or disconnecting tranny or disconnecting exhaust. it just comes right out. being 4wd I don't even have to jack it up. I don't understand what would be in the way on yours . There will be a couple of spots where the suspension parts kind of blocks access to a bolt or two but a 12" or 2- 6" extensions gets past that.
Last edited by odzmaker; 06-02-2016 at 04:32 PM.
#5
#6
Hi Odzmaker, thanks for the reply. From what I read you really have to fight it low enough to clear the oil pickup tube while its hitting the cross member of the frame. Is the frame different on the 2500 to the 1500? I can see this cross member on my truck and it does seem like it could be a bitch.
#7
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#9
Frame is the same, it's the axles that were different. You should be full height for a 3/4 ton, with D60's front and rear, just like mine. There is more than enough clearance to get the pan out without lifting the engine. Trust me on this..... I did mine about four times in less than a month. (don't ask. )