1999 Steering; Can I get a T steering upgrade? Preach it!
#1
12-12-2016, 10:20 PM
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1999 Steering; Can I get a T steering upgrade? Preach it!
The focus is the '99 in my sig. My steering sucks. When I hit pot holes at a high speed, (not that I want to, the county roads here suck) she gets quite wobbly. I have scoured the internet, and I've found plenty of posts from 2500"s and up, about this compilation of parts that swap from the faulty "inverted Y" setup to the better "inverted T". My question is, can I do this to my 1500?
This was supposed to be my attempted cure all. Mopar # 52122362AF
But, the models listed were HD's......
Can you help?
This was supposed to be my attempted cure all. Mopar # 52122362AF
But, the models listed were HD's......
Can you help?
#2
12-13-2016, 08:25 PM
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#3
12-13-2016, 09:51 PM
#4
12-14-2016, 11:13 AM
Welcome to my world . . .
Yes, you 'can' put 98-99HD steering parts on a D44 front end. While it helped a little in the tighter feeling department, it wasn't cheap. But I highly suggest getting ACDelco only if you do this. The Moog parts are wrong and cause a dead spot when turning. There's some good info on this on another forum that I bet google will find for you. I had to modify my T steering to work properly by adding flat washers to each side. Of course the boots are now shot. Oh, and now the new Redhead has worn out. But they sent me a new one that's going in this weekend.
There are plenty of posts about 1500s doing the swap. The stabilizer bracket will also swap right over but be careful measuring as the movement is different. I had to remove mine until I can re-measure the travel of the shock as it was bottoming out turning. You also have to tighten the tie rod sleeves a certain way to keep them from binding. Oh, and the nuts are super huge that most tool boxes don't carry sockets for. I had to make several runs to Sears to get the right sizes.
I have to keep my caster at stock 3.5 or else the tie rods bind and clunk. You read about putting more caster on like 4 or higher but that made everything worse on mine. Basically, after new T steering, pump, and Redhead, my steering is right back to where it was: sucking. I'm currently running without the stabilizer or the DSS from Spohn.
Yes, you 'can' put 98-99HD steering parts on a D44 front end. While it helped a little in the tighter feeling department, it wasn't cheap. But I highly suggest getting ACDelco only if you do this. The Moog parts are wrong and cause a dead spot when turning. There's some good info on this on another forum that I bet google will find for you. I had to modify my T steering to work properly by adding flat washers to each side. Of course the boots are now shot. Oh, and now the new Redhead has worn out. But they sent me a new one that's going in this weekend.
There are plenty of posts about 1500s doing the swap. The stabilizer bracket will also swap right over but be careful measuring as the movement is different. I had to remove mine until I can re-measure the travel of the shock as it was bottoming out turning. You also have to tighten the tie rod sleeves a certain way to keep them from binding. Oh, and the nuts are super huge that most tool boxes don't carry sockets for. I had to make several runs to Sears to get the right sizes.
I have to keep my caster at stock 3.5 or else the tie rods bind and clunk. You read about putting more caster on like 4 or higher but that made everything worse on mine. Basically, after new T steering, pump, and Redhead, my steering is right back to where it was: sucking. I'm currently running without the stabilizer or the DSS from Spohn.
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12-14-2016, 08:30 PM
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My friend, I have searched. I tore Google open, four pages down. I checked everything and the results sucked. Everything I've found is for those running 2500/3500 gear going to the "T" style system. The problem is my front axle is a little D44! I don't know what to do......
#6
12-14-2016, 08:34 PM
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Welcome to my world . . .
Yes, you 'can' put 98-99HD steering parts on a D44 front end. While it helped a little in the tighter feeling department, it wasn't cheap. But I highly suggest getting ACDelco only if you do this. The Moog parts are wrong and cause a dead spot when turning. There's some good info on this on another forum that I bet google will find for you. I had to modify my T steering to work properly by adding flat washers to each side. Of course the boots are now shot. Oh, and now the new Redhead has worn out. But they sent me a new one that's going in this weekend.
There are plenty of posts about 1500s doing the swap. The stabilizer bracket will also swap right over but be careful measuring as the movement is different. I had to remove mine until I can re-measure the travel of the shock as it was bottoming out turning. You also have to tighten the tie rod sleeves a certain way to keep them from binding. Oh, and the nuts are super huge that most tool boxes don't carry sockets for. I had to make several runs to Sears to get the right sizes.
I have to keep my caster at stock 3.5 or else the tie rods bind and clunk. You read about putting more caster on like 4 or higher but that made everything worse on mine. Basically, after new T steering, pump, and Redhead, my steering is right back to where it was: sucking. I'm currently running without the stabilizer or the DSS from Spohn.
Yes, you 'can' put 98-99HD steering parts on a D44 front end. While it helped a little in the tighter feeling department, it wasn't cheap. But I highly suggest getting ACDelco only if you do this. The Moog parts are wrong and cause a dead spot when turning. There's some good info on this on another forum that I bet google will find for you. I had to modify my T steering to work properly by adding flat washers to each side. Of course the boots are now shot. Oh, and now the new Redhead has worn out. But they sent me a new one that's going in this weekend.
There are plenty of posts about 1500s doing the swap. The stabilizer bracket will also swap right over but be careful measuring as the movement is different. I had to remove mine until I can re-measure the travel of the shock as it was bottoming out turning. You also have to tighten the tie rod sleeves a certain way to keep them from binding. Oh, and the nuts are super huge that most tool boxes don't carry sockets for. I had to make several runs to Sears to get the right sizes.
I have to keep my caster at stock 3.5 or else the tie rods bind and clunk. You read about putting more caster on like 4 or higher but that made everything worse on mine. Basically, after new T steering, pump, and Redhead, my steering is right back to where it was: sucking. I'm currently running without the stabilizer or the DSS from Spohn.
#7
12-15-2016, 09:30 AM
Synergy kit.
Dodge Off-Road.
Moog Part Numbers:
ES3496 (draglink tre)
ES3497 (or OE tre at pitman arm, to ES2496)
ES3498S Sleeve
ES2012S Sleeve
DS1459 LH outer
DS1456 RH outer
You can cross these to dodge numbers at most parts stores... (I think)
Check Merc's post in this thread.
Dodge Off-Road.
Moog Part Numbers:
ES3496 (draglink tre)
ES3497 (or OE tre at pitman arm, to ES2496)
ES3498S Sleeve
ES2012S Sleeve
DS1459 LH outer
DS1456 RH outer
You can cross these to dodge numbers at most parts stores... (I think)
Check Merc's post in this thread.
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#8
12-15-2016, 11:08 AM
#9
12-16-2016, 09:44 PM
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Why not Moog? I only ever use their stuff. In my experience, they hold up longer.
#10
12-17-2016, 11:08 AM
Welcome to my world . . .
Yes, you 'can' put 98-99HD steering parts on a D44 front end. While it helped a little in the tighter feeling department, it wasn't cheap. But I highly suggest getting ACDelco only if you do this. The Moog parts are wrong and cause a dead spot when turning. There's some good info on this on another forum that I bet google will find for you. I had to modify my T steering to work properly by adding flat washers to each side. Of course the boots are now shot. Oh, and now the new Redhead has worn out. But they sent me a new one that's going in this weekend.
There are plenty of posts about 1500s doing the swap. The stabilizer bracket will also swap right over but be careful measuring as the movement is different. I had to remove mine until I can re-measure the travel of the shock as it was bottoming out turning. You also have to tighten the tie rod sleeves a certain way to keep them from binding. Oh, and the nuts are super huge that most tool boxes don't carry sockets for. I had to make several runs to Sears to get the right sizes.
I have to keep my caster at stock 3.5 or else the tie rods bind and clunk. You read about putting more caster on like 4 or higher but that made everything worse on mine. Basically, after new T steering, pump, and Redhead, my steering is right back to where it was: sucking. I'm currently running without the stabilizer or the DSS from Spohn.
Yes, you 'can' put 98-99HD steering parts on a D44 front end. While it helped a little in the tighter feeling department, it wasn't cheap. But I highly suggest getting ACDelco only if you do this. The Moog parts are wrong and cause a dead spot when turning. There's some good info on this on another forum that I bet google will find for you. I had to modify my T steering to work properly by adding flat washers to each side. Of course the boots are now shot. Oh, and now the new Redhead has worn out. But they sent me a new one that's going in this weekend.
There are plenty of posts about 1500s doing the swap. The stabilizer bracket will also swap right over but be careful measuring as the movement is different. I had to remove mine until I can re-measure the travel of the shock as it was bottoming out turning. You also have to tighten the tie rod sleeves a certain way to keep them from binding. Oh, and the nuts are super huge that most tool boxes don't carry sockets for. I had to make several runs to Sears to get the right sizes.
I have to keep my caster at stock 3.5 or else the tie rods bind and clunk. You read about putting more caster on like 4 or higher but that made everything worse on mine. Basically, after new T steering, pump, and Redhead, my steering is right back to where it was: sucking. I'm currently running without the stabilizer or the DSS from Spohn.