No power Need Help ASAP!!
#22
That would be mostly because of torque converter lag that the auto pcm that's still in it is adjusting for. So the way to solv a lot of these problems is to get a used 318 manual pcm. I have one availiable off of my parts truck that I know works if you would be Interested. Pm me if you are.
#23
Ok I did wonder about the Auto pcm still being in there but why would it run good sometimes? Anyways today was the first time I've drove the truck in the rain. After work it took a while to start and jumped and bucked taking off in first gear. Then between half and full throttle it jumped ( like completely cuts out and comes back very violently ) even when warmed up. It was colder today than it's ever been since I've owned it. Ive read that hard starting and high rpm cutting out could be a failing coil. I looked at the coil and it's rusty and old looking and the guy has crimp connectors instead of an actually plugin. Is it possible he has the wires backwards? I don't believe it would even run if they were. Also anyways I can test the coil........And yes I did clean the IAC....
#24
#25
Ok I'll try that when I get home although I don't believe water is the problem since it's had time to dry and been warm. But who knows could be stuck in the harness or something.... I checked the coil with my multimeter as best as I could this morning( can't really find a good video or post on how to do it) and the one terminal read 1.3 ohms which was in spec I think. But the one " tower " only read 13.70 ohms and it's supposed to be between. 13000-15000. Again not sure if I did it right and not sure if those numbers are correct that's what I found online. Also when it cuts out it is always the same rpm, 3200 exactly. Thanks for all the help and quick replies from everyone.
#26
#27
I'd check the crank sensor. Because of this auto to manual swap, were not sure wether the PO replaced the crank sensor to the manual length, or shimmed the auto one out to work. If he shimmed the auto one, he might have brought it out too far and the crank sensor could have a intermittent signal because of too much spacing.
#28
Yes my meter is auto. And I changed the crank sensor. They had a manual and a auto one at the parts store and the one that I pulled out of the truck was the automatic one so I bought and automatic sensor. The problem is getting worse everytime I start it. Now the cutting out is at 2500 rpm. Even in neutral now I can hold the pedal to the floor and it will go up to about 2800 then drop down to about 2000 then right back up. Took my dad's brand new coil off his truck and it didn't help at all. Checked plugs again for fun and no problems. My scanner won't reset itself so I can't get the new code it's throwing so I'm going to have autozone scan it tommorow. I read something about doing a fuel sync with the distributor or something. Any ideas on that? It idles fine but as soon as heavy throttle is applied it jumps. Also swapped an oem TPS in and didn't help.
#29
like completely cuts out and comes back very violently
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/OBDI/pcm_fault_code.htm
Check all the codes and post them.
#30
Ok so after I got home I went out and looked at the crank sensor. The bolts were loose for some reason. I tightened them and it wouldn't even crank over after that. Took the whole sensor out and put two lockwashers behind each bolt and put it back in. Turns out the sensor was getting hit by ( the flywheel I believe). She fired right up and reved to the moon. Took it for a drive and it reved straight up to 4000 before I shifted with no cutting out at all. It's runs great. I guess the Auto sensor wasn't the right one but the guy at the parts store told me that since it was a conversion truck I needed that one.