I tested the sensor today we had a break in the weather. I got no signal with a test light so I guess it must be the culprit. Would you suggest I go to the dealer and get a Mopar sensor? I hate going to dealers they always jack up the price.

 

Google online for the Mopar sensor way cheaper then the dealer. Yes get a Mopar unit, RockAuto diddoes sell them (last I checked).

 

I went out before reading this and bought a new one from NAPA, but no worries it appears to be exactly like the one I pulled out originally. I've always had good luck with NAPA parts so I'm gonna go with it and see what happens.

 

The problem is the computer. Aftermarket sensors will look the same as Mopar ones but won't work that well with the computer (some will work poorly)

 

The computer had a "NO BUS" issue, but it was replaced by a re-manufactured one from a company called FS one. It is not reading "NO BUS" anymore and when I plug in my code reader it reads no codes and communicates successfully with the PCM whereas before I got a "unable to comm" reading. So I was and am assuming it works ok. Could be wrong? Plus I turned the key and felt the relay and it clicks when the key is turned on so I am assuming the computer works.

 

Still won't start? Re-verify spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulse.

 

Thanks I will have to do that. I put the new crank sensor in it since it stop raining and same result, won't start. I checked for spark by hooking my spark tester to the coil running to the distributor and no spark signal. Just checked the fuel pressure and it was 45 psi did drop to 43, but it held for the required amount of time, I did the screwdriver to the ear test for the injectors and heard it click when the key is turned. Still no luck,

 

Do they click when cranking?

In any event, if you don't get spark, it simply is not going to run. You have an issue with the crank sensor, the wiring, or the PCM. (just because it's new, does NOT imply that it works.....)

 

Thanks, I changed the crank sensor again on Friday so two of them later, I'm doubting that is the issue. It has to be the PCM or a wiring issue then. With my luck, its probably a wiring issue and wiring issues are my weak point. Gotta figure out where and how to test it I guess. I probably will start with the fusebox after the relay because I know the relay gets 12 volts and clicks when the key is turned on.

 

Do you get power to the coil/injectors for about three seconds when you turn the key on?

Do you get power to the coil/injectors while cranking?