Ok at the 2 pin at the connector on 200 ohms it reads 1.7. At the large head the the plug wire goes and one small pin at 20k ohm setting reads 13.91.

It seems the first test is off but the second is right...?

 

The brand new ignition coil at oreillys read 1.4 and 10.1. That seems close enough I guess.

 

What is the ohm range for being good on both of those? Were they at room temperature when you tested them? If it's out of range its not good.

 

I thought the range for the small pins was .5-1, but the new one read 1.4.

The large pin and small 10,000-15,000.

 

Im more concerned about that button under the steering wheel that leads to the ignition coil.

 

have you tried pushing it? i would rip it out and patch up the cut made in the coil wire.

 

The button under the dash is likely a kill switch. PCM breaks the ground circuit to fire the coil. If the coil always has a ground, it doesn't fire.

 

I tried pushing it. I was half afraid it was a bomb and I would blow up. It didn't seem to do anything. I also unhooked it from the ignition coil and tried starting the truck and didn't seem to make a difference either way. Maybe I should unhook it and the try the button. Idk.

The battery was down to 12.4 volts and now it's charged to 12.8. wondering if the alternator could be bad.

 

Kill switch? How do I kill the kill switch? :-P
It seems it would cut the connection to the ground. Maybe I should try to run a wire from the ground directly to the ignition coil splice.

Also, did you see the connector on the injector? I had a problem with that injector on my other truck.

 

Nope. Is it a momentary switch? Or does it stay 'on' when you push it?

PCM fires the coil by breaking the ground circuit, with a constant ground, it won't run. Remove that wire from the coil connector, it isn't needed. The wire from the ground side of the coil to the PCM is though, so, leave that one there.

If the pump isn't running when you first turn the key on, you have other issues.