Transmission Cooler Question
#1
Transmission Cooler Question
I have a 2000 RAM 1500 Pickup 2WD with the 5.2L. I'm going to be installing a rebuilt 46RE this weekend and when I received it there was a note that said I must replace my ATF cooler and flush lines. I bought a Hayden High Performance 514 Cooler kit. They rate it for MED DUTY use, motorhome+5000lbs towing. The most I ever tow is 5070 lbs. I was planning to bypass my factory cooler and just use the new unit, but I read in the instructions (with the Hayden Cooler) that I may need 2-3 sizes larger to do a replace over "in-series" installation. Can this Oil Cooler (which I intend to install in front of my radiator and AC condenser) effectively cool my trans fluid alone? If not, any advise on flushing the existing cooler and lines after a catastrophic U-joint and (as a result) transmission failure, there was a large amount of metal and debris in my torque converter and old trans. Thanks in advance, This forum is GREAT!
#2
Flush the cooler backwards. Disconnect the lines AT THE TRANS! You wanna flush those too. I think the rearmost line is actually the return, so, that is the end you want to force the flush into. I would be tempted to get a couple gallons of mineral spirits, and whatever plumbing parts you need to flush it. Careful with pressure though, you don't want to blow apart the cooler in the radiator....
The other option would be simply flush the lines, and REPLACE the radiator. (cheap insurance as far as I am concerned.)
The other option would be simply flush the lines, and REPLACE the radiator. (cheap insurance as far as I am concerned.)
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you could use your hayden 514 kit as stand alone, i mean it's rated at motorhome plus 5k of towing, i don't see why not. i would do it if i had to but would prefer the 679 or similar. it's a better design with double the rating. i have a 670 type cooler on my second gen and as an aftercooler on 60 gal compressor.
#7
the factory cooler (if your truck had the aux cooler between the rad and conden.) is the more effective plate and fin design then the tube and fin cooler you picked up. The tube and plate cooler you have will need to be physically 30% larger (then the stock cooler) to cool as efficient as the stock cooler.
However, if you just had the radiator heat ex changer only then the cooler you picked up will be more effective at cooling then the stock set up.
If you had the aux cooler from the factory then buy the same style plate and fin cooler OR double up on the tube and plate coolers. You can ditch the radiator circuit if you live where freezing temps are not common. I live in AZ and have never run the radiator cooling circuit.
However, if you just had the radiator heat ex changer only then the cooler you picked up will be more effective at cooling then the stock set up.
If you had the aux cooler from the factory then buy the same style plate and fin cooler OR double up on the tube and plate coolers. You can ditch the radiator circuit if you live where freezing temps are not common. I live in AZ and have never run the radiator cooling circuit.
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Ken
#10
Quick Update on this post.. I was unaware of my factory AUX cooler (as it was hidden behind the AC condenser). I disconnected my radiator heat exchanger (which cuts out that ****ty built in thermostat as well), removed the check valve, and temporarily ran the line to my AUX Cooler so I could do a proper reverse flush. It took 2 $13 cans of Kooler Kleen until the drainback was clear. I gave it a few bursts of 25-30 PSI compressed air after each can to get any remaining debris. I'm going to leave the check valve out, as I live near Atlanta and always let my truck warm up and ran new hose to my Hayden 514, but I ran out of hose as I underestimated how much I'd need. Photos to come when I'm done after trip 200 to advance. Am I right to assume this could help my engine run cooler as well considering there won't be hot ATF flowing through the radiator anymore?