Howdy yall,
Ive got a 96 1500 5.9, i just swapped in an alloyworks 3 3 core aluminum radiator with e fans and a shroud, dropped my 180 t stat and put in a 160, new coolant temp sensor and sender, reman water pump. She was running pretty hot (220-240 ish). I had a coolant filter in the upper hose. Pulled it out and replaced with a fresh hose. Shes still running around 220 or so with the fans on all the time. The wiring is 12g, straight from the fans to a switch in the dash with a 30a fuse then back to the battery (understood its subpar but i was on a time crunch). Im not sure what's causing the overheating. It would run 205 or so with a 180, the huge restriction with the filter and oem radiator. Not sure what cfm the fans are rated for. Also i bypassed the trans cooler in the radiator for a remote mount one to try and keep any access heat from the coolant. Im lost and need some imput

 

Does it run cooler going down the road at 50+? If so the issue is not enough air flow across the rad. The 160 t stat may be to cool and throw codes. And if your t stat didn't have the jiggler valve on it you should drill a small hole in it to let the trapped air out.

 

So far it doesn't change much regardless of speed. I havent had a chance to test a highway run yet. So far the 160 isnt throwing codes on the dash, ill hook up a scanner and see if theres any hidden. According to the description on oriellys website for part # 3356 there is no jiggle pin included, so i may have to drill that hole to help with air lock if any in the block.
[EDIT] So far best guess is the radiator is too thick for good flow and need to look into higher cfm fans, drill a hole into the t stat and add deflectors on the sides to force more air through the radiator

 

I noticed you said a remanufactured pump. That may be your problem as well? If you can get your hands on a new pump, that might be better. When it comes to the lack of a jiggle pin, you don't have to replace the thermostat. Just remove the radiator cap, WITH THE ENGINE COLD, start 'er up, warm 'er up with the cap off whilst "milking" the upper radiator hose with your hand. This will usually rid the coolant system of any air trapped in it. If the coolant at the cap bubbles as it warms, this is usually an indication of air being released. Increase the engine speed to keep the coolant from bubbling over and reinstall the cap before letting 'er idle again. Hope this helps.

 

Ill give the milking method a shot. I was thinking the reman pump may be an issue, but it looked like an oem replacement (metal fins, minimal play in shaft, ect), i know it had good flow as i could watch the coolant flow through the filter i had in the upper hose, so not sure if it is an issue or not

 

Is the belt routed properly? Spinning the pump the wrong way just doesn't work out very well.

 

I will surely double check, but i cant imagine it would be possible to mess that up 😂

 

I've been able to manage it a time or two.

 

Quick update for yall, belt is routed properly, tried milking, did another drain and fill, water pump should be efficient enough. Im going to seal the 1/4-1/2" gap between the shroud and radiator, that should help get my by for now, then im going to get some much higher flowing fans and see what that does. Lots of research and conversations later, i shouldn't need to drill a hole in the t stat or put the oem pump back on until i work out the seal and fans. Will keep updated if needed

 

Heres the full update - still have issues
5 mile drive, ac on. It did not over heat while idleling while it was bleeding, only got hot when i drove it. Temp 225-240. Upper rad hose rock solid (proof its over heating). 180 thermostat (new), coolant temp sensor and sender (new), original water pump re installed, fan shroud sealed to radiator, 3 core aluminum radiator, dual electric fans (unknown brand/cfm replacing with mishimoto 1850 cfm)
Is it the radiator is too big?
Because technically, the only "upgrades" i have are the radiator, fans and 180 t stat at this point.
My last theory is radiator is too big or for some reason im not getting enough air flow anymore
The mishimoto fans technically should only help keep it even colder, it should be running around 180-190 with these current fans