I’ve searched and searched for issues common to what I’m dealing with and have only found a couple threads that come close. I used the info in those threads to no avail.

I’ve got a 2001 3500 24v 5.9 Cummins. After a very serious rain here in the northwest I developed a parasitic draw.

I’ve done all the draw tricks to find the issue and cannot win. Every fuse and relay out and still the draw persists. Removed every bulb from the interior. Removed the radio and cluster, disconnected the ignition switch and it still is there. I disconnect the alternator as well in case of a bad diode inside and yet the drain is still present.

With my limited time to work on it I’m worried that whatever has happened will dry out and the draw will go away without me actually fixing the issue.

I’ve stopped for the day and where I’m at is……… with the passenger battery completely unhooked and the negative off the drivers side battery (Only the positive on the drivers still attached ) the engine fuse block still has power across all fuses! my next step is disconnecting the starter. Anyone wanna throw an idea out there?

 

How are you testing for power with the battery disconnected?

 

that last part of all of it when the fuse box in the engine compartment is on is just with a test light showing power across all the fuses even though the battery isn’t grounded.

 

What type of test light are you using?

 

I think what HeyYou was asking is where is your test light hooked up to ? Not to insult you but if you test between battery negative and the fuses the test light will still light up regardless of the battery negative being disconnected. If both batteries are disconnected and the light shows power between the fuses and the engine block, slowly step away from the truck and call your local exorcist ... How are you measuring the current draw ? Do you have a meter inline or an amp clamp ? Either way removing the fuses is the right test, no point in removing relays or light bulbs, everything except the starter is on a fused connection in the PDC. Note that's only true for stock trucks, if there's any creative wiring to hook up a sound system or additional lights then all bets are off.

 

no offense taken. I’ve been doing this after my 12 hour shifts so I may be a bit out of it. I just was using a run of the mill test light. But makes sense that I was just completing the circuit. I was measuring the amp draw and it was 3.20 couldn’t get it to go away by pulling fuses. Some have said the ignition switch still. I did just go mess with it after these reply’s and I can take the key out in all positions. That’s not good.

 

Did you get the IOD fuse? I think it likes to hide under a little cover. (in the fuse block on the side of the dash.)

 

I did. Still had the draw. I won’t be able to work on it until Friday.

 

Start pulling fuses/relays from the PDC.

 

I will start over again Friday. I’ll start at the PDC.