Light bars to High Beam Switch?
#1
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About a year ago I installed 2 little 9" LED bars in my front bumper pockets. Ran the included switch to the dash, just below and right of the gauge cluster. Easy enough to reach but its starting to get old when someone comes flying around the corner and I have to find that button in a split second. I'd like to make the LEDs come on with the factory high beams, while retaining the manual LED switch. I read that you can tap into the high beam's power wire, and send it to the LED relay signal wire. Is this a good solution, and what's the best way to tap into this wire? I know they make wire taps but what is an actual professional method? Definitely not wire nuts. Soldering the splice together? Appreciate any input guys, thanks
#2
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Thanks for using the light bars with high beams only and not blinding oncoming traffic ! I hate those idiots that drive around with their light bars on all the time....
I'm guessing you want three options: light bar off, light bar on for off road, light bar on only with high beams. One quirk with the later trucks is that the headlights are switched by connecting them to ground which is backwards from how it is typically done. I'd use a three position switch and feed 12v to the relay and then use the switch to ground the relay, similar to the way the headlights work. One position is directly connected to ground (constant on), the other is connected to the headlight wiring red/orange wire (on with high beams). Center position is off.
Scotchlok would be convenient to tap into the headlight wiring but as you alluded to they are frowned upon by professional mechanics, especially out in the elements. I suppose you could use them inside the cab between the big bulkhead connector and the multi-function switch. Otherwise cut the wire (so you can get heat shrink over it) and either solder the three wires together or use a crimp connector with two wires on one side and the third on the other. Then heat shrink.
I'm guessing you want three options: light bar off, light bar on for off road, light bar on only with high beams. One quirk with the later trucks is that the headlights are switched by connecting them to ground which is backwards from how it is typically done. I'd use a three position switch and feed 12v to the relay and then use the switch to ground the relay, similar to the way the headlights work. One position is directly connected to ground (constant on), the other is connected to the headlight wiring red/orange wire (on with high beams). Center position is off.
Scotchlok would be convenient to tap into the headlight wiring but as you alluded to they are frowned upon by professional mechanics, especially out in the elements. I suppose you could use them inside the cab between the big bulkhead connector and the multi-function switch. Otherwise cut the wire (so you can get heat shrink over it) and either solder the three wires together or use a crimp connector with two wires on one side and the third on the other. Then heat shrink.
#3
#4
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#5
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Exactly. The three position switch would replace the current switch.
#7
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Ok it took me a little while but I got it wired up correctly and it works like you said. But one thing I don't like, which is true even with factory high beams, is that the high beams/LEDs aren't as bright as when you hold the high beam switch to 'flash' vs toggling them on. Is there a way around that? It's a pretty noticeable difference in brightness.
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#8
#9
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I have actually done the mod where both low and hi beams (sport headlights) stay on when high beams are on. When the high beams are already on, and I pull back to flash they temporarily get brighter.
#10
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Your truck have DRL's by any chance?