Also, I'm not a fan of those plastic accumulator pistons. I have those changed out to steel (same ones used in a 727 transmission). I also use the thicker band strut to eliminate possible breakage.

 

I have one of those small air tank. I am going to use it for the testing portion of my build. I could it for the clearing of the lines also. I believe my kit is a stage 2 build. Considering the transmission looking as good as it does and my only problem is slipping after 24 yrs. ( Including my limited experience) Doing a OE rebuild would be safer even though this kit claimed it was a little better. Seeing the truck has never been abused , I'm sue that played a role in it's condition.

I agree with Atomic on the plastic part. Not sure why it wasn't the same as the others?

 

When we had my '96 46RE torn down for its rebuild, it also had at least one plastic accumulator piston in it. That had to have come that way from the factory..

 

I have looked them over as well as the plastic one and they look good. My thinking here is that it's going to be a daily driver and sometimes tow my boat so it's not going to do anything extreme so I think this rebuild should be good for my needs. As good as it looks. I am thinking maybe it was some type of pressure problem that was causing the slipping issue I was having. I have contacted the guy from eBay about the converter. He talking a low stall of 1800 that I believe is OE specs? I am looking to buying one next week. I still have a way to go with not only finishing the dis-assemble but also the rebuild process. Then I'm looking at a new line and some small parts like new sensors/pressure. My thinking is maybe another month before it may hit the road for the first test run.

I got a 1/4 inch aluminum thick plate that I'm going to drill holes for bolts so I can use my press so I can finish taking apart the overdrive section. The overdrive is the last part to get dis-assembled. Then it's time to clean and start the rebuild process. I will post pictures as I this comes along. Thanks again guys for your help and advice.

 

I was looking at Rock Auto and they offer both trans lines for about $46 bucks. That is very cheap compared to other prices out there.For that price replacing both is cheaper then one local. I figure then all I would have to do is flush the radar side and I'm good. I have never ordered lines by mail before so this is new to me. I have only bought one thing from them so but that was a master cylinder for a neighbor truck. I am thinking they will have to bend it down for shipping. Has anyone dealt with this before and how hard is it to bend back?

 

It comes in a rather long box, they do not bend fold spindle or mutilate it for shipping. Now, the SHIPPER might do any/all of that..... even though the box likely says not to....

 

lol, that is very true when it comes to shipping. Thanks for the answer. I wasn't sure.

 

I went with all metal accumulators too. Don't mess with the valve body. Follow the Zip Kit instructions. Valve bodies will last 500K+ miles easily, there are no wear parts in one. I consider mine a Stage 2 but is there any rhyme or reason on what level a rebuild is? Stage 5 to me are all new billet hard parts, a performance case, and performance rebuild kit. But what's considered a performance rebuild kit?
Pic of what I did for the press.

 

I have everything needed to get the overdrive torn down now. Cheaper than most tools. I can look into replacing the what I have with steel. My thinking is my slipping issues come from a pressure issues that are most likely seal related. I have replaced pretty much everything more than one without getting into the valve body other then the spring.
As to the valve body. I am just going to do as the zip kit tells me. I am using the 46re class video to walk me through tear down to rebuild. It shows me ways to test everything as it goes back together. Everything is going real good so far. I just had to make a couple of tools to release parts under pressure in a safe manner. Just taking my time and no rushing to avoid mistakes.

 

Everything is torn down with the exception of the valve body.( That will be last) I will post a few pictures but everything looks great. Even the friction disk are in good shape no signs of wear. You will see in the pictures. I did run into a issue with a set of steel and friction plates that are not as they should be. I don't know if it came from the factory or how I could have flipped one since I pulled them all together and only spread them out for pictures. I have one set where you will see two frictions plates are together and two steels are together. It should be steel, friction, steel friction and so on. It's not here.




Is it possible they did this and how would it run for years without issues? I even looked in the transmission book and it doesn't show in this order. I went back and check if maybe I did something that could achieve and it can't be done unless you took a plate and a friction out and swap them. Other then this stack. Every other stack is in order as they are meant to be.

Here are some more pictures of everything done today.






























Here is the tools I made to get the overdrive out.lol



Will start cleaning and rebuilding this coming week. Still trying to get the red clay off the housing. I need to get the main down to have the threads bad either re-threaded or heli coils put in. I will continue to update you guys. Thanks