Transmission rebuild is obvious answer
That's the odd thing. No check engine light, trans light or anything to give me a clue to what to look for? Sometimes I think it even may be a slight shudder. It's slipping worse then before the rebuild. I tried finding a kick down cable and the best I can find is one for over $100 bucks. Due to my water log dirt road, USPS will not come down so I have to go to the post office to get my new pressure switch's I ordered. The Ford I have for back up is having some issues but took it for a drive and it seemed ok, I need to go back in a loosen the front bearings a little. I think I snug them too tight. I putting hope I can run it till this weekend so I can get back into the Dodge and see if this is something I can fix? Sorry, I'm just frustrated that I can't get ahead here. It's hard for you guys to go off what someone is telling you and I understand.
What's confusing is that it shifted fine all the home from work which is about maybe 8 miles. It's like something failed but what is the question? Since replacing the pan with a drain plug will give me the option of draining it with a strainer to see if anything shows up in the fluid. I guess this weekend will be spending my time going through things like the TV cable to make sure it's working correctly, then changing out sensors and going back and making band adjustments to make sure they are correct if the fluid comes out clean and clear of any debris. Make sure noting in the pan as well. If everything passes and problem still there, then my only choice would be to pull the transmission if I can't get a local shop to test it. I have another rebuilt converter here if needed. The guy I bought it from sent me a replacement. at least the overdrive is working so I wont have to go back into it. The my guess would be either the pump is acting up or the valve body is? I am open to suggestions and check list to go through. I don't have a pressure tester for transmission but if needed, I could save up and get a kit. I would need to find a video to show me how to do it. Thank you for willing to help me solve this issue. I am not a lot of help explaing what it's doing but doing the best I can.
What's confusing is that it shifted fine all the home from work which is about maybe 8 miles. It's like something failed but what is the question? Since replacing the pan with a drain plug will give me the option of draining it with a strainer to see if anything shows up in the fluid. I guess this weekend will be spending my time going through things like the TV cable to make sure it's working correctly, then changing out sensors and going back and making band adjustments to make sure they are correct if the fluid comes out clean and clear of any debris. Make sure noting in the pan as well. If everything passes and problem still there, then my only choice would be to pull the transmission if I can't get a local shop to test it. I have another rebuilt converter here if needed. The guy I bought it from sent me a replacement. at least the overdrive is working so I wont have to go back into it. The my guess would be either the pump is acting up or the valve body is? I am open to suggestions and check list to go through. I don't have a pressure tester for transmission but if needed, I could save up and get a kit. I would need to find a video to show me how to do it. Thank you for willing to help me solve this issue. I am not a lot of help explaing what it's doing but doing the best I can.
I know this has been a very long thread but please bear with me. Came out this morning and reset the TV cable. Took it for a run and it shifted but little quick so I stopped and started to adjust it out towards the front of the truck in 1/16 increments trying to find that sweet spot. Well it either quick shifts with kick which triggers kick down or has long shifts. anywhere from 2200 to 2500 but not in the same range and it kind of feels like it lightly slips or maybe a light shudder.not sure? At this point it's better than yesterday huge slipping. Before I did the adjustment , I pulled on the wire itself and it moves but seems like it under some pressure so I may go back under the truck and see if maybe the way it hooked isn't correctly in place? Maybe take both ends loose and see how the cable moves. This thing is driving me crazy. I feel like it's something I'm looking over. No codes or noises. Again sorry for such a long thread on this.
The AAMCO manage seemed pretty nice as said he couldn't look at it till Monday but I could come down and talk to his master builder to see if maybe he could give me some ideas that could save me money. He didn't seem to have any issue knowing I rebuilt it.
The AAMCO manage seemed pretty nice as said he couldn't look at it till Monday but I could come down and talk to his master builder to see if maybe he could give me some ideas that could save me money. He didn't seem to have any issue knowing I rebuilt it.
Will be changing those this weekend. I have to get to the post office to pick them up. Took today off to work on this issue.
It's not going to shift like it did. There is the ZIP Kit (valve body modified) , better frictions and steels, and different characteristics from torque converter. Adjust the TV cable properly (check it like HeyYou posted) and get the electronics in and it's going to be what it's going to be. You'll have to get used to the new shifting points. Readjust your bands to 2 turns out from the 72 inch pounds while you're in there. Make a video with sound and shifting/downshifting and speedometer. Make a youtube channel if you don't have one. Upload video to youtube and copy the link to put into this post. We're armchair mechanics from our point of view. Any codes still?
First to second and second to third are pretty quick and third to fourth are about normal for me and my tranny build. I'll take the truck out today and record a video. Like this when my tranny went.
First to second and second to third are pretty quick and third to fourth are about normal for me and my tranny build. I'll take the truck out today and record a video. Like this when my tranny went.
It's not going to shift like it did. There is the ZIP Kit (valve body modified) , better frictions and steels, and different characteristics from torque converter. Adjust the TV cable properly (check it like HeyYou posted) and get the electronics in and it's going to be what it's going to be. You'll have to get used to the new shifting points. Readjust your bands to 2 turns out from the 72 inch pounds while you're in there. Make a video with sound and shifting/downshifting and speedometer. Make a youtube channel if you don't have one. Upload video to youtube and copy the link to put into this post. We're armchair mechanics from our point of view. Any codes still?
First to second and second to third are pretty quick and third to fourth are about normal for me and my tranny build. I'll take the truck out today and record a video. Like this when my tranny went. https://youtu.be/8RS_ILdj4Dg
First to second and second to third are pretty quick and third to fourth are about normal for me and my tranny build. I'll take the truck out today and record a video. Like this when my tranny went. https://youtu.be/8RS_ILdj4Dg
Again, I apologize for the inconvenience this is causing you gents.
Please don't think I'm disagreeing with you or expect it to be the same as before. I understand it's hard to help when your going off conversation compared to being there live. I could live with somewhat longer shift times but watching the rpm gauge flutter ( I mean barely can see but you do feel them) is concerning for me because it started out doing this before the build. I am believing it's a combo of things, Band adjustment, TV cable and electronics playing a role in this. At least it's not doing the horrible slipping as it did yesterday. That just came out of nowhere. The whirling sound we spoke of before has stopped. The only noise I had was yesterday was the horrible slipping how it sounds like it rattling when it slips but that is gone at this point. I will try and do a video for you guys. I will try to have it were you can see what the tach is doing. You might hear it shift but other than that. There are no sounds like the video you posted. Everything sounds normal when started and driving. This is why it's so hard to explain. Trust me when I say this about to drive me mad. I also notice it lost some pep that it had the first few times I drove it. It seems to be loss that. If that makes any sense? Other then cable. I can't do anything else till this weekend when I have everything so I can drop the pan and install them and do all the torque. I will update you when that is done. Thanks you very much for dealing with me on this.
Again, I apologize for the inconvenience this is causing you gents.
Again, I apologize for the inconvenience this is causing you gents.
I am not sure if it's 2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th since most shifts at this point are pretty soft. I just know it's past 1st gear. I know 2nd to 3rd is where it will down shift then right back up like it hasn't made up it's mind on what gear. The flutter you speak off is maybe a 1/16 on tach. it's either the trans or possible engine misfire. I can't pinpoint. I can see it on the tach and feel it. Everything been replaced but map sensor I believe. I heard that can affect transmission too. Local over $100 but if I eBay it. I can get it for maybe $25. The motor is little rough but can't pin point because no codes to go by and I have done a full plugs, wire and cap about maybe close to a year ago. This truck rarely throws a check engine light. Hopefully this makes some sense to you.
My 8.0 is like that too. I can have a dead miss on one or more cylinders, and it will never set a code.....
When my tach would bounce just a bit while cruising down the road.... I noticed that ANY movement of the gas pedal while at steady state cruise would make it happen. Replaced TPS, and problem went away.
I have new electronics in my trans, governor stuff, and output speed sensor, and when it's cold, I will also see the bounce 2-3-2 first thing in the morning accelerating down our dirt road. Really only does it once, and then that's it for the day..... Even after having it serviced, adjusted, and electronics, it still does it, but, a few other problems I was having went away. (dropping into neutral in drive-thrus was a REAL problem.
)
When my tach would bounce just a bit while cruising down the road.... I noticed that ANY movement of the gas pedal while at steady state cruise would make it happen. Replaced TPS, and problem went away.
I have new electronics in my trans, governor stuff, and output speed sensor, and when it's cold, I will also see the bounce 2-3-2 first thing in the morning accelerating down our dirt road. Really only does it once, and then that's it for the day..... Even after having it serviced, adjusted, and electronics, it still does it, but, a few other problems I was having went away. (dropping into neutral in drive-thrus was a REAL problem.
)
My 8.0 is like that too. I can have a dead miss on one or more cylinders, and it will never set a code.....
When my tach would bounce just a bit while cruising down the road.... I noticed that ANY movement of the gas pedal while at steady state cruise would make it happen. Replaced TPS, and problem went away.
I have new electronics in my trans, governor stuff, and output speed sensor, and when it's cold, I will also see the bounce 2-3-2 first thing in the morning accelerating down our dirt road. Really only does it once, and then that's it for the day..... Even after having it serviced, adjusted, and electronics, it still does it, but, a few other problems I was having went away. (dropping into neutral in drive-thrus was a REAL problem.
)
When my tach would bounce just a bit while cruising down the road.... I noticed that ANY movement of the gas pedal while at steady state cruise would make it happen. Replaced TPS, and problem went away.
I have new electronics in my trans, governor stuff, and output speed sensor, and when it's cold, I will also see the bounce 2-3-2 first thing in the morning accelerating down our dirt road. Really only does it once, and then that's it for the day..... Even after having it serviced, adjusted, and electronics, it still does it, but, a few other problems I was having went away. (dropping into neutral in drive-thrus was a REAL problem.
)










