Thinking about starting the process of getting transmission ready for removal this weekend. Since I don't have cement slab to work on. I will have to substituent plywood for a solid base to work on. Draining the system, dropping the drive shaft, removing starter and such . Labeling bags for bolts and parts. Pres-soak any bolts needed, A lot of this can be done by myself. I'm weird because I am actually looking forward to do my first rebuild. Still haven't fully committed to the kit. Did email Transpartswarehouse with some questions but never heard anything back( week later) even though they say on their website two day response. I have looked at eBay as well. Trying to get the most bang for my buck in a kit. Any other parts wont be known till it's torn down.

I did a test drive the other night and it seems third gear is where the problem is. It's slipping real bad. I went through manual first and second seemed good. Reverse is working fine. I do agree after reading on Zip Kit and it's the way to go. Still working on the torque convertor decision. I was thinking maybe adding a trans cooler as well to this build. I figure while it's down. I will be replacing some other things as well. At 166,000 I will go ahead and just get the timing chain done as well. Yeah I should have done this sooner when I was in there doing the intake.lol. I figure every couple of paychecks, I will get my parts I need. I will post more once I get to certain points in this build and get some pictures as well. Thank again for the help guys.

 

Can't recall if this has been done before or not - have you tried performing a band adjustment on your transmission?

 

Yes Sir. I believe did it twice. I went back in making sure the adjustment was done by the book. I dropped the pan and it was clean as a whistle. Nice clean fluid no metal at all and magnet was pretty much clean. I have replaced the pressure sensors twice along with the lock up and over drive with harness. Replaced the spring as well. At this point, I can't see anything that could be replaced to fix this issue with slipping other then just biting the bullet and do a rebuild. Being third gear by the way it's acting is making me think that it's in the valve body or torque convertor may be acting up? If I am understanding correctly the band handles 1st and 2nd. I'm soaking down bolts for now. This how clean my pan was when dropped. You can see I index the finger and there was no metal at all. The black spots in the pan are from the over spray when I painted the pan way back.

 

Band is only used for 1st in manual first. If you have it in D, band is not used.

More likely, the 3rd gear clutches are just worn. Bumping line pressure might bandaid it for a while, but, it is quite likely rebuild time. (I believe the zip kit gives you some options on line pressure.)

 

Yeah, I'm beyond the band-aids. I wasn't real sure on the band role. I thought it handled 1st and 2nd shift but that was a guess on my part. At least the pan and fluid is clean so that should mean the internals should be in good condition. Thinking simple rebuild with zip kit and convertor should be ticket. Thanks

 

Trans line on front came off good, back one didn't. Ended up twisting it before I noticed so it will have to be replaced. Disconnected some of it today and bagged and tag anything needed. Starter is giving me hell since top bolt will not break loose so I PB Blasted it. I will try to let it sit for a day or two and try again. I honestly think this starter has never been changed since new. I was trying to get everything disconnected , dust shield removed and torque convertor unbolted. Then when I was ready to drop it. I would just have to drop drive shaft, tail mounts and remove bell housing bolts with dip stick. I also want to build a work stand for the unit that he made in the video. He has some simple tools that can be built to save on the wallet.

My goal is by this weekend to have it out and on the work table. Once torn down, I can address a couple of the bolt holes that are stripped. I will either have someone do a Heli coil ( I think that the right name) or do them myself. It's not going to be a quick job since I will have to buy the kits and parts as I can afford them. I figure getting the main internals rebuilt first, then valve body and final being a new convertor. Since drive shaft will be out. I'm just going to put new U joints as well. I will update and get some pictures once things gets rolling. Thanks for the help

 

Yup it does have provision for firmer shifts in the valve body. I put one spacer (washer) and it shifts firmly but not a head jerker/banging sensation.

 

I ordered this Zip Kit off eBay since it was cheaper than buying it from trans warehouse and a couple of others websites I looked. SONNAX 46re 47re Zip Kit 46-47rhe-zip transmission. Now hopefully I will be ordering the rebuild kit in a couple of weeks. https://transpartswarehouse.com/2200...1998-2002.html. $ 325.23 for the rebuild kit. I was recommended to get https://transend.us/products/transmi...onverters/cr94 for my convertor. Hopefully will start doing the rebuild here in maybe a month.

 

2300-2600 stall?? Kinda high for a truck, don'tcha think?

 

Mine is a 2300 to 2600 stall speed converter. If I had to do it over I would get one with a lower stall speed. Now that said, I actually don't mind it. Driving around the city and out on the highway it does fine. The most I've put in the bed of the truck is about 1500 lbs and I never pull trailers. The one thing I do notice is backing up on an incline with somewhat precision, I have to feather the gas pedal on/off more than normal to get it rolling. I'm used to it now and it doesn't matter to me. If your looking to haul your boat or ? and use it more as a truck, definitely get a lower stall. I still get normal gas consumption 12-15 mpg out on the highway, the city 1-12 mpg.