When I purchased my torque converter from Precision New Hampton while the transmission was being rebuilt, they recommended a stall speed of 1200 RPM since I primarily use the truck for towing a trailer and hauling things. It works great.

 

I haven't made a commitment but it sounds like a lower stall would be the right choice. I'm not sure why I was recommended a higher one. Looking around and even Rock Auto shows between 2000 and 2300 Stall. Is that a OE thing? The one I posted was from Advance Auto. I would like to get this figured out before I buy. It's rough when you have very limited knowledge.

I have only ordered the zip kit. I am hoping to get the rebuild kit within next two weeks. I'm still looking at solenoid/ governor. Going to research to see what's the best dependable ones. I replaced the part that plugs into the harness around 6 months or more but less then a year. I would prefer not to have to drop the pan again if possible. I will check back later tonight or tomorrow. Thanks Guys

 

For the governor stuff, go with the borg warner heavy duty solenoid set.

I think stock stall speeds is around 1600 or so. At least, that's what my (faulty) memory is telling me.

 

I remember borg warner so yeah I will be looking for heavy duty. I have the ATSG Transmission book but other then be careful and take not of tag on convertor ( I don't see how it could last being in so long) . It really doesn't say anything about it. I must admit this has been a truly learning experience so far. I'm looking for to the rebuild but removing and installing isn't horrible but would love to do it more then once hopefully. lol

 

This has been an adventure for sure. The few convertors I found range around 2300+ lock up. I found one guy on eBay that is selling one around 1600 stall speed I believe around $200. He also mentioned that instead of scraping old one. Send him your old one that he can rebuild to he can keep cost down on selling them. He offers no discount or money and it sounded also like you cover shipping. I may sound cheap but if your paying the full price and sending yours in, then who really befits other then him? Am I wrong to think this?

I also have a question. Is there a way that I can have the convertor tested and is it worth it? Sorry to ask so many questions. Like I said. I'm comfortable with the build it self but I just want to make sure it's done correctly and all the parts I get are right. I am seeing what I have after bills to see if maybe I can order the rebuild kit this week or next week. I still have to get the solenoid set and I'm also going to replace the part( Can't think of the name) that pugs into the harness and all others as well but getting the trans rebuilt and valve body done is a big step in the right direction. I did check Precision New Hampton Convertors but they didn't show a 46RE in their list. This is a budget build but also getting everything together by each pay check so I would be looking at about 2 to 3 weeks before I may have everything for the build. I also have to address the stripped bolts as well. I will update as I go . Thanks for the help and dealing with so many questions in this thread.

 

Converter replacement with a rebuild is SOP. There is no way to test it without specialized equipment, and the only folks with that stuff, are going to be the folks building/rebuilding them. Do NOT re-use your old converter. If there is debris in it, it is impossible to clean it all out, and putting that into your freshly rebuilt trans is just a really bad plan.

Check out Summit Racing, or Jegs, for converters, see what they have to offer as well. If the guy offering the 1600 RPM stall converter is reputable, that price is what I consider reasonable for a GOOD torque converter.

 

You would need to call Precision New Hampton regarding your torque converter needs and not just rely what you see on their web site. They are a torque converter manufacturing/remanufacturing facility. The person I spoke with one the phone was very helpful/knowledgeable and fully explained the process of purchasing a converter from them and providing a mailing label for sending in my core converter.

 

I was more curious than anything. I will check the places you posted as well call the place Atomic is speaking of as well. Either way, I need to get this figured out and I would prefer a new one anyway. I got my zip kit in today so making progress slowly. Going to again try and get the starter removed this weekend so I can continue to make progress of it's of getting it ready for removal. The pain is the top bolt is being stubborn and hard to get to. My goal is to get the convertor bolts out then start the dropping process. Right now the starter is holding things up. Let me pull that listing up for you guys and see what you think? It's not going to be real soon since I need to get the tranny rebuilt before I will be ready for the convertor anyways. Right now I am trying to get the money up for the kit as soon as possible. Thanks Guys

 

A nice, powerful, electric impact wrench makes the job MUCH easier...... (or air, if you have a compressor.)

 

I've found that good air operated impacts tend to be more powerful than the electric impacts, as I have some of both. In addition, good air impacts can typically be purchased fairly cheap. It's hard to beat an old used Ingersoll-Rand 231 1/2" impact gun (check Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for them). Of course, you do have to deal with dragging around an air hose, but that issue melts away for me when I pull that trigger and the bolt comes off freely.