So I'm changing the water pump because it has a nice grinding noise coming from it. Still cools the truck fine. Got all the accessories bracket off and the alt and compressor to the side. Now that I'm at the pump, how much risk are the bolts holding it breaking and what tips you got to ease this process? Also what should I put on the bolts when they go back in? I keep seeing mixed messages about whether to put the new gasket on dry or rtv a little. Trying to get a consensus. Not doing the timing chain even though I'm there because of cold weather setting in.
1997 Dodge Ram 5.2l

 

I used a quality gasket only, not the one that comes in the box, when I put mine on. As for the bolts? They should come out maybe with a little grunt behind them. I don't remember putting any sealant on the bolts but I may be wrong. When I reinstalled them I put anti seize on them.

 

Some of the bolts go into the water jacket, so, a bit of sealant on those isn't a bad idea. (Think there are four of 'em. They'll be obvious once the pump is off.) You can use a touch of sealant on the gasket if you like, but, it isn't required. Be sure and REPLACE the bypass hose that hides under the a/c bracket as well.

 

Also, doesn't hurt to pickup the steel water heater tube that pushes into the hole on the side of the water pump and uses an O-ring to seal the tube in the water pump. They are famous for rusting out.

 

Yep. They were available here in the "Help" section at Advance Auto.

 

I went Gates crazy with the pump, upper, lower and bypass hoses. Pump came with tube, o-ring and gasket but I bought a fel-pro gasket just because of reputation. Upon installing the pump, should I use antiseize and thread sealant on the bolts or what should I use? Also what types? I've seen multiple torque specs. Ranging from 22-30 ft lbs.

 

If you see rust on any of the threads you could use anti-seize. I personally wouldn't use thread locker

I usually use a little silicone on the threads of the four that surround the water jackets.

IIRC I've done 30ft lbs in the past. One of 'em on the driver side is a little problematic to get a TW on...it may be the one that also anchors the strap for the tube??

Now's the time to feel the bearings in your tensioner pulley and idler pulley, ie with the belt off

 

No sealant is needed for the bolts. 2001 maintenance manual section 7-70 engine.

 

I use the RTV grey thermostat and water pump sealant when putting a pump on. A thin film on the water pump and thermostat gasket as well as a thin amount on the 4 long bolts that go into the block water jacket. I always replace the thermostat when I do a water pump and DEFINITELY replace the bypass hose. They are designed on a high tech computer to NEVER leak until it gets down into the 20's, then they self destruct. (Not really, but it seems like it.)

 

That really wouldn't surprise me. Goes hand in hand with fuel pumps failing right after you fill the tank.