Ive got a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 46RE 2WD. I have a low governor pressure issue. Pressure is half of what it should be (around 70 psi, should be 120 according to shop). I can still drive the truck from point A to point B with no issue, theres just higher shift points and a RPM surge around 35-40 mph where it shifts up. Decent detail too, when the surge happens and youre going uphill, itll stay in that surge till you top the hill and let off on the gas. Usually its a 1 second surge when it happens on a flat road. 300-400 rpm surge.

So heres my question. Me and a shop believe its some sort of blockage (just about all the trans sesnors have been replaced, 3-4 spring, connections clean, and fluid). Got a quote today for 2600-2900 for a full rebuild, and 1100 for them to only go through the valve body. Im trying to find the most cost effective option. Old owner said the trans was rebuilt at was is now 16k miles ago (120k on the truck). Wasnt any proof, but it did seem like the fluid was clear and some parts were new. Kinda the bigger question here too, would a "blockage" of this sort occur in the valve body, the trans lines (the check valve is still there), or somewhere in the shaft part of the trans?

Any help would be absolutely appreciated. Happy New Year.

 

Think I would play with the TV cable adjustment first. Try back it off a notch or two, go for a drive. See how it feels.

 

that’s one of the things I forgot to mention. TV cable was the first thing I did, and didn’t see a change. Should the cable have just enough tension so it’s not pulling on the butterfly valve, but just snug enough on the **** the plastic piece snaps onto?

also I did replace the TPS sensor too.

 

Here's the TV cable adjustment process -

 

Make sure the TV cable is actually doing its job.... and that the lever down on the trans returns to it's "throttle close" position when you let off the throttle.

Did you reset the PCM after you changed the TPS?

 

I believe i did reset the PCM right. Disconnected the battery and turned the key to the accesory position. I think I waited 15 or so mins. And Ill check out that lever on the trans again. I had taken apart that linkage when I dropped the valve body one time while replacing the TCC and OD soleniod, in an attempt to fix this issue.

 

Yep, that's a proper reset. I take the additional step of after reconnecting the battery, turn the ignition ON, (not start) count to ten, THEN start the engine, and let it re-learn idle. This gives the PCM the chance to learn the 'zero values' of various sensors.

 

Got it. Yeah i let it sit for a bit running, and was subtle at first with the gas.

Kinda going back to my orignal post... would you know if that check valve in the trans cooler line is associated with governor pressure of any kind? Its pretty much my last cheap fix that could be associated with the issue. I know it can restrict fluid but not sure about pressure. One thing ive noticed since this issue started was, when I drive longer distances, I can smell the distinct oder of trans fluid coming from vents. Unless im just going mental, which is very well possible, ive smelt this since it started in early october. Usually ill notice it with drives that are close to 40mins or more. If i understand right, that smell can be associated with an overheating trans? I purchased some glowshift gauges and one is a trans temp gauge so we'll see with that, but until then, I just wanted to bring up this idea.

 

If you have gauge/s you can test it yourself, I wonder what the line pressure is?
https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne...0/2000_154.pdf

 

Check valve is in the cooler line, so, really doesn't have much affect on pressure. If it gets clogged, it prevents fluid flowing to the cooler, and the trans overheats. The RE transmissions monitor trans temp, and if it gets too hot, overdrive gets disabled first, if it continues getting hotter, the trans temp light in the dash will come on. 95 and older trucks, trans temp sensor was external, and an option.... so, that particular bit of code wasn't always there.