Disconnect your O2 sensors, see if it runs any better. The numbers look kinda strange....

Make sure the TV cable is adjusted properly, and moves freely. That's about all you can do for shift points. May not hurt to change the fluid/filter, and adjust the bands. (and if you are feeling really froggy, change the governor pressure sensor/solenoid as well.)

 

Alrighty! I'll give disconnecting the O2s a shot.

TV cable is adjusted properly. The linkage has crazy slop because that bracket is broken off the transmission.. have to pull it all the way down to get into drive and then bump it back into n or R to use those gears. Haha!

So will adjusting the bands or changing the pressure sensor/solenoid change the point that the transmission decides its time to change gears? I don't know how autos work...

 

Unplugged the O2s and she ran great. Drove probably a total of 10miles - going a mile down the road and turning around and repeat- on highway getting up to 50-55 MPH.

Still hanging on to shifting into 2nd and 3rd but going in to 4th and OD is very smooth and well timed. Found I could kind of finesse the pedal and make the transmission shift s little better but it was a sort of hit and miss.

So Id noticed before but inspecting more they welding this exhaust pretty horribly... and kind of close to the O2s... could oxygen be getting in and messing with readings?
​​​​​

 

More likely the sensor are just old, and in need of replacement. NTK or Denso sensors only please.

Need to fix your shift linkage, and deal with that stuff, and test drive it again. See if anything is better.

On the old style trans (auto) the governor was gear driven, and purely mechanical beasty. On these, it's controlled by the computer.... so, if the computer is getting bad readings, or the solenoid is not responding right, you get funky behavior. Changing the output speed sensor as well, certainly wouldn't hurt. Adjusting the bands and the other stuff WILL improve your shifting.

 

Or they really didn't like all the raw fuel getting passed over them.

 

That new PCM arrived today. Installed it and the truck wouldn't start... Eventually get a CEL. Two, to be exact:


Plug the used one again - second key cycle she fired right up. Was idling nicely so decided to do a few rounds around the property.

​​​​​Now I've been pretty cautious so far and haven't really given it much throttle... decided to "get on it" on the straightaways on the property -which aren't long but there was a couple where it hammered into second - was maybe a little over half throttle..?

"Got on it" for 4 runs from a stop out on the road and she ran through the gears real nicely! Found I could be about half-throttle and still be accelerating a little faster than I normally drive my half ton - shifted great. I can see why you guys get single digits for MPGs 😂

Now I have a theory... Maybe the used PCM is a multi-lingual PCM - so it's able to talk all the wonky languages that the cheap aftermarket parts speak better than a school taught PCM? Haha

Still going to replace the filter and adjust the bands... see what sensors I can pick up.... unless someone would argue that it's necessary to stomp on it everywhere? There's definitely quite a few kids around here with dodges that could make it seem that way 😂

Oil pressure seemed to drop off every time the truck went below 1k RPM for more than a few seconds.. I'm hopefully going to be picking up a t adapter tomorrow to install an aftermarket oil pressure/temperature sensor I had in my old diesel to confirm the sensor - and planning on putting my gauges in anyway.

Could definitely be a factor! Haha!

 

I have a suggestion. This thread is long and circular, you obviously have enough geese to chase, but you should consider a copy of this for your year:

No one ever mentions these. This is everything not covered in the service manual, actual diagnostic trees for every CEL/MIL code. The Body Diagnostics Manual covers the dreaded 'NO BUS'
I have the 1995 version as well as 2000, 2004, so I am not much help for you. 2000 maybe some good.
It is centered around the DRB tool, but with a test light, VOM and your code reader, you should be able to think through your situation.
Also there are some other simple things that may help. Why not an injector problem?
What is your fuel pressure? Too high?
Does it hold when the engine shuts down? A weak regulator can bleed rail pressure back to the tank, but no fuel pressure after shut off can indicate leaking injectors.
I built 10 little inserts for the coil wires to help me chase weak/different/odd cylinders. Slide the wires in, ground them with a test light while the engine is running, dead holes don't drop the idle.


Injector noise while running should be fairly consistent, can listen to all of them with a hose/open stethoscope. The ones behind the coils are a bit tough.
An infrared temp gun on the exhaust port for each cylinder after engine is up to temp will show you odd/uneven fuel distribution, strong/weak cylinders.
The PCM uses a waste spark, only 5 coil drivers for 10 cylinders, 2 cylinders fire at a time alternating. One on compression, one on exhaust, like an old Harley. Pretty sure. Maybe that masks the 'misfire' sensor/algorithm whatever that is, dunno.
Be worthwhile to check your firing order if somebody had/worked it before you.
Does the PCM know what the engine temp is? Coolant sensors can be monkey business.
Instead of pulling the trans or practicing overhead TIG on aluminum, you might fab a nice curved bracket, tap and loctite couple of short bolts to hold it in place. Plenty of room around the torque converter if careful. Worth a try.
Line pressure is set at the valve body with the pan dropped, make sure you are starting in the right place. FSM/Sonnax can help you. Easy to check, fab a little pressure gauge. In fact, trans diagnosis starts with checking pressures. Driving with a monkeyed up pressure linkage is asking for trouble, trying to adjust line pressure with the cable seems backwards if that is the case.
The engine wiring harness is not bad to remove, but you have to lift the upper intake. Mine was full of cooked, brittle, trashed wires. I had bad grounds, open injector wires, shorted injector wires. Laying it out on the drawing table and stripping it was an okay plan.
Hope this helps, good luck. You might be on of the ones who sticks to it long enough to fix it, then returns with results and to thank all the nice folks who helped. That would be unusual.

 

Thank you for all the information!

I haven't tested fuel pressure at all. I've been debating about getting a fuel pressure gauge - never really had a need for one but never hurts to get more diagnostics tools! Haha!

PCM does know what the temp is - at least from live data it seems pretty accurate.

Honestly, I was just thinking last nigiht about making a bracket and bolting it on to the transmission somehow. Maybe see if I can't drill and tap into those ears that are left over - should give plenty of depth to get a good grab...

I think getting a bracket made up, changing transmission filter and adjusting bands, getting gauges in to verify sensors or for better monitoring and then getting the headlights to work are all that's really left for the truck. Seemed to run great yesterday - and if I was "getting on it" it shifted great too. OH yeah, and I do have to at least get another TPS and oil pressure sensor.... Possbily O2's since unplugging them made the truck run perfectly...?

 

So the v10s are known for having the screws that hold the oil pump cover on back out over time, usually causing catastrophic failure from sudden loss in oil pressure. I would verify by mechanical gauge your oil pressure issue. If it is dropping that low on a mechanical gauge time to investigate. The oil pump is in the timing cover. Also wouldn't hurt to drop the oil pan if that's the case, make sure nothing is blocking the pickup screen.

 

"I've been debating about getting a fuel pressure gauge" - I bought and use a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Dual purpose, not expensive. One of first steps in engine trouble diagnosis.
I see it. ECT=coolant, IAT = air charge temps.