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1998 Ram 2500 v10 Bad PCM?

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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 03:30 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by 69_XS29L
The crank passes through the oil pump, no doing much without pulling timing cover. Little T-25/T-30 screws.
If you read back in the forums over the years, low indicated pressure very common to these engines. They still ran. May have been built in, no idea. That big Allen head plug in cover hides the pressure relief, shim with whatever small washer fits on top that spring. Or stretch spring a bit.
Be lifting engine to pull pan.
Darn, figures I wouldn't get lucky with getting to the oil pump cover screws... Would a loose cover only effect the oil pressure after the engine has warmed up though? Because on startup it was 50psi - solid. It only dropped as the RPMs came down as the engine got up to operating temp.

So are you saying 10psi at warm idle could be built in or just the fact that the gauges are known to read low? I've got an aftermarket gauge hooked up and that's where I'm getting the numbers from now. The engine starts ticking after a bit of sitting at idle at that low pressure, goes away when I rev it up and get the pressure back to at least 20psi.
When I changed the oil I put 10w-30 in because I had read that's what's recommended - think I should try a higher weight to bring pressures up as well?

I suppose I could stretch the spring. Don't have many small washers sitting around to my memory...

I was wondering about if I'd have to lift the engine or not... I've got a cherry picker so that's not really a big deal but I was checking up on it last night and someone - don't remember where - was saying that you could remove the pan without lifting the engine...? Maybe they were mistaken.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 03:33 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by adukart
Yeah it's set up like industrial sized motors. like semis. The LS and Hemi also have a snout driven pump. I looks a lot like a pump that's in an automatic trans. As 69_XS29L said you need to pull the front cover to get at the screws. It's definitely worth the peace of mind to check them out and add some loctite.
I still need to check out the procedure on removing the timing cover - and I would agree the peace of mind would be a good thing too.
Even though you need to remove the cover to get to being able to tighten or loosen the screws - is there a possibility of being able to see them from underneath with the pan dropped for a visual inspection? Just curious
 
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 03:46 PM
  #143  
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If its loose, the gap can get larger as the engine warms..... If you even slightly suspect its an issue, need to go digging. Motors ain't cheap. Gaskets are.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 07:05 AM
  #144  
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So speaking of gaskets...

I was reading through the service manual and to my understanding I'm going to need....

Water pump gasket, Oil pump gasket (timing cover)
I've already got the oil pan gasket...

Is there a gasket kit for this or do I need to order a full gasket set for the engine?
I did a quick search before I walked in to work and even though I specified my engine seemed like everything that was coming up was for v8 or diesels....
 
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 08:36 AM
  #145  
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There should be a 'front cover kit', or something similar available.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 09:16 AM
  #146  
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Yes there is a front cover kit, ask me how I know lol. FEL-PRO TCS45995. The front cover kit does not include a water pump gasket, which is just an o-ring style gaskets. You can remove the cover with the water pump still attached. Only a few of the water pump bolts go through to the block and hold the timing cover on. I was able to get my pan off without lifting the motor. It was a chore with the tube though. I had to unbolt the pickup tube while holding the pan, also had to hold the pan while bolting up the pickup tube. The tube is short as it drops from a hole in the block down into the sump. Now mine is lifted which helps as well.
 

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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 09:35 AM
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Don't you also need a front crank seal? And perhaps balancer sleeve or new balancer if you find a groove? Looking at pics of a V10 timing cover, it appears to encompass the crank like the V8s
 
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 01:04 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Keith_L
Don't you also need a front crank seal? And perhaps balancer sleeve or new balancer if you find a groove? Looking at pics of a V10 timing cover, it appears to encompass the crank like the V8s
Crank seal is included in the gasket set I posted. On a side note it would be easier to pull the pan, pull the front cover, install front cover, then re-install pan. Since the pan is also bolted to the bottom of the timing cover if you tighten the pan up to the block presses up on the bottom of the timing cover and makes re-installing the front cover a pain.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 01:36 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by adukart
Yes there is a front cover kit, ask me how I know lol. FEL-PRO TCS45995. The front cover kit does not include a water pump gasket, which is just an o-ring style gaskets. You can remove the cover with the water pump still attached. Only a few of the water pump bolts go through to the block and hold the timing cover on. I was able to get my pan off without lifting the motor. It was a chore with the tube though. I had to unbolt the pickup tube while holding the pan, also had to hold the pan while bolting up the pickup tube. The tube is short as it drops from a hole in the block down into the sump. Now mine is lifted which helps as well.
Ah! Thank you for the part number. I'd found that but I was getting hung up on not being able to find one with the water pump since the v8 ones come with a water pump gasket... But if I don't need to pull the water pump to get the cover off then I wont worry about that.

If you did it again (without a lift) - would you go about it the way you did or would you lift the motor? I'm thinking I might try without lifting it and can always end up lifting the motor if it's too big of a PITA...

Originally Posted by HeyYou
There should be a 'front cover kit', or something similar available.
You were right. Haha! I just didn't want to believe there wasn't a kit with everything I needed - but turns out I don't have to remove the water pump - so I guess that's everything I need?

Originally Posted by adukart
Crank seal is included in the gasket set I posted. On a side note it would be easier to pull the pan, pull the front cover, install front cover, then re-install pan. Since the pan is also bolted to the bottom of the timing cover if you tighten the pan up to the block presses up on the bottom of the timing cover and makes re-installing the front cover a pain.
Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely be keeping that in mind!

Got the gasket kit, transmission filter and transmission pan gasket both ordered - supposedly with next day delivery free!
Oil pan is "out for delivery"
So hopefully can really dig in this weekend and might have a driveable truck by Monday? Haha!
Also ordered a headlight harness from LMC last night - I wish I'd looked at their site earlier...1/4 the price of the harness Geno's sells... AND they're not on backorder for over a month!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 02:10 PM
  #150  
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I would do it again without lifting the motor. I would maybe jack the truck up and put stands under the frame up front and let the front suspension sag down to get a little more clearance and room to work. Did your oil pain gasket come with a pickup tube seal?
 
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