Our one-time trans Guru MonteC (whom I miss....) suggested nothing but ATF +4 from whatever source you cared to use. No additives, or anything else. He runs a trans shop out east somewhere.... So, I trust him on that one.

 

Works for me then! Only ATF+4 it is!
I don't really care what I get - as long as it's right...

opinions on oil weight?
We've got one at 0W-40 and another at 20w-50... haha!
​​​​​​I was thinking of going 15w-40

 

I run 10W30 high mileage oil. Just the regular dino stuff. Not synthetic. But, I only drive like 5000 miles a year.

 

20W50 is getting hard to find. 15W40 diesel oil is never a bad choice, or most 0W40 and 5W40 tends to be really good stuff.

Anything that meets API SN+ or SP is basically at least synblend, no matter how it's marketed. I've got some 20W50 here that claims API SP, which is unusual as these heavier oils fade out.

I've never put anything but +4 in Dodge transmissions. If you're really wanting to experiment, maybe some Lubegard Red additive, but that's all I'd personally try. Lubegard seems to noticeably help the 6R80 -- if you know anyone with a newer Ranger

 

100% on ATF+4. Mopar stuff is as cheap as any, available on Amazon or on sale SummitRacing. Why monkey around?
15w40. Supposedly diesel oriented stuff has more sulphur, not necessarily good for cat equipped trucks. Mobil1 15w50, not the Castrol 20w50 I used to run.

 

My original plan for this truck wasn't to be driven too much - just plowing and hauling... Though the more I drive it and get things dialed in the more I'm liking the truck. Might end up splitting between it and the old K1500 as the work truck.

Haha! I can't recall ever seeing 20w50 anywhere! Haha! Even when I went to go get oil and ATF this last time, I specifically looked for it and could not find it. Well, at the small, local parts store and at the farm store at least....
I ended up getting some 15w40. And ATF+4.

Luckily the previous owner took care of any Cat concerns - they've been replaced sections of pipe. It also appears that they forgot to open their gas up before welding them in HAHA

Well, lets start with the oil situation - I got everything put back together and new oil in + larger filter.
Cold idle: 62PSI
Warm:10-12PSI

Took out the pressure relief spring and placed a small washer behind it and put it back in. 18PSI
Not so great... I think I saw some examples of how Dodge designed it to be low pressure...? The gauge never went to 0 and "Check Gauge" light on unless it dropped below 15PSI. Maybe still need to check the oil pump...?
I figured I'd move on with what I could...

Time to look at the transmission.
Been doing research and it would seem like I would need to adjust the one accessible via the outside of the transmission. I couldn't get the nut loose - without worrying about something going bad.. I think I need to remove the driveshaft and buy myself a little bit of extra room. Also noticed I'll definitely be needing to get some new U-joints for the front driveshaft.

Decided to look at the TV cable adjustment procedure again...
Barely had to adjust from what I have set it at before. Drove the truck and it almost was worse - would rev up to like 3k and wouldn't shift unless my foot was really in it. Decided to take a screwdriver with me and just play around with the adjustment as I drove the truck on back roads.

Finally it seemed about 3/16-1/4" from the cable being pulled all the way "forward" towards the radiator was where it first started to feel like the truck shifted smoothly and felt good at what I thought was an appropriate throttle pressure and speed to accelerate. I tested about the same acceleration a few times and it felt really good.

Need to check it under some different loads from the throttle to see if any fine adjustment is needed but I will say it was kind of far off from what the manual said it was supposed to be adjusted to... Don't have much gas in the tank and don't want to have to put more in if it turns out I will need to replace the pump - so don't want to run it much more before I pick up a gauge.

When I was driving around a few times I came to a stop to make an adjustment the oil pressure would drop to maybe 10 and then come back up into the high teens.

Still need to get a fuel pressure tester... I keep forgetting to pick one up and not going anywhere today. Still have really intermittent starting behavior. Can fire up first key turn one time and just had it take 7 after the oil change... Usually within 2-3 turns of the key it'll fire. No codes, surprisingly..?

 

Might wanna replace the oil pressure sensor. They aren't know to be the most reliable sensors on the truck.....

 

Haha! For sure! I'll also be keeping the oil pressure/temperature sensor I have in now, in the truck..

Debating if I want to do a pilar mount or make something custom for my gauges..

 

I like the pillar mount. Makes for a clean installation. Options for one to three gauges as well.

 

Yeah, the more I think about it the pillar will look the best with the least amount of work on my part. Haha!
I've got a 3D printer, well, several and love designing and making things with them but the KISS method might be the way to go on this one

INTERMITTENT STARTING:
FINALLY picked up a fuel pressure gauge and checked pressures.... Key on - 50PSI. If I let it sit it'll bleed back down to 20PSI...
Even if it has gotten down to 20PSI the truck will fire up.
Even if I crank the truck when the gauge reads 50PSI it still possibly will not start.

Tried a series of about 15 key cycles - first 7 times I cycled the key the truck fired with no problems. I tried different conditions like letting the pressure drop down and trying as soon as the pump was done priming (I always let the pump finish priming before turning the key to start)
Finally hit a run of 4 key turns with no start. these happened with full fuel pressure and even at 20PSI pressure.
Then about every-other key turn the truck would fire up.
Still not a single code.
I can tell right away if it's going to fire because the tach will/will not jump as soon as it starts cranking. For testing I've let it crank for about 3 seconds each time I turn the key before I turn it all the way back and then cycle it again.

Wired in the headlights - never saw them on before now, but I'm not disappointed.
Wife wanted a ride in it - she actually came out to the shop after work! Haha! Took about 6 cycles to get the truck to fire - ran and shifted great! Even did a couple donuts in the "pasture" part - per her request!

Now just need to get the taillight housings swapped out and new taillight bulbs in. I'd gotten some almost brand new looking ones off of a part-out. The ones I have are very much destroyed. Ironically - the completely destroyed side is the side with good bulbs - probably because they could change them out without removing the housing from the bed. Haha!
Also still have the shift linkage part to sort out as well - but that'll just take a little time and fabrication on my part.