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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 09:08 PM
  #311  
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Yo Wild,

Thanks for elaborating since I didn't share that I was aware of the DOT grey areas on beadlocks. They become an issue, for the most part, if a LEO decides to make it one or there is an acccident that would/could be related to them.

I'm glad you point out the maintenance. It's critical in my opinion, especially with all the bolted joints I deal with on gubment stuff. You taxpayers would expect such scrutiny. I have buddies that indeed do not maintain and on occasion report leaking....and it's a constant ribbing on my part. Some people just flat out don't understand how the bolts can break.

Yes, Hutchinson's were the ones I was referring to earlier. DOT is just referring to meeting a standard with the wheel manufacturing and performance. It gets the stamp to show that the wheel meets such specifications, then it can be marketed as such for street use. Those w/o DOT stamp are just marketed as offroad or in the case of H1 Hummer wheels, military only (iirc).

I'm glad to hear your good experience with the Stazworks. Put some pics up when you get a chance. No hurry.

The wheels I'm vying for have recently been sponsor for the TTC 2013 (hint). Not all rigs ran them, but some big ones sure did and it was that added impression for me. The rock rings can be removed and are not needed for regular driving.

Originally Posted by Wildman4x4nut
Nuk,
Something to know about beadlocks. Yes there are "DOT" legal ones on the market. PM me the name of your second choice as I have only ever heard of Hutchinson beadlocks.
I'm sure you have heard the argument that any beadlock is legal to run on the street. I have been for 6 years now and have never been pulled over for them. The biggest issue with a standard beadlock is to make sure you do good maintenance on them. Once a month you need to spend 30-60 minutes with a torque wrench and check all the bolt. That is what will make them unsafe also. People want to just mount them and forget them, well you can't do that with beadlocks. I started off with Allied beadlocks and then got a wild hair and sold them so I could do the Hummer wheels.


I didn't take pictures when I assembled the first two Stazworks wheels but I will when I do the next two. They are awesome wheels and are well made. Part of their price is the inner ring you need to make them dual locks. And also is that they come powder coated in the color you want.


If you have thought about Hummer wheels I will have 4 rings for them soon.

Thanks dawg.

Originally Posted by Johnn123
Awesome vid WK, looked like a sweet time!

I've been thinking of moving to texas or back to colorado...

Originally Posted by corbo1962
Thanks for the info on the intakes. Texas has emissions, but all they do now is hook up to the ODOII and make sure it goes into closed loop. If it fails to go into closed loop, you fail the test and must get it repaired. As long as everything hooks up right in the install, I should be OK with either. I've been leaning towards the Hughes FI airgap. Also will add some shorty headers at the same time.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 09:09 PM
  #312  
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
Stewie, I plainly may not understand your question how it going down? He didn't have any issue really. My laying tracks was a needed benefit since you can tell he is plowing with the front diff a bit.
Perhaps it's just from inexperience but I HATE going down snow covered hills... Maybe it was just the old Blazer I learned to snow drive in, but you even think about looking at the brake peddle and it was sliding...

My Ram does much better at braking, but I still don't care for it... (downhill snow driving that is)
 
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #313  
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Ok I get what you are saying with that context. It is dependent on 2 things, your snow conditions and your weight distribution.

If your route is regularly driven on, then it will develop ice at some point. New snow covers that awesome stuff and the next time you're on it means you may compact it enough to keep traction. Or you'll go straight through and the ice is alive.

You can't do much with that b/c of 2wd. Even in 1st gear the ratio is still too fast to control the compaction of the snow. Putting roughly 200 lbs in the bed might help. Perhaps you try to experiment with that. Shovel the snow in...4-6" or so.

The other thing is put chains on. I don't recall if you already do that.

The blazer has a much smaller footprint and weight distribution and it matters alot.

Having 4wd for this, putting in 4hi and 4Lo gives that extra speed control to just let it rid on engine braking. Any amount of breaking loose the tires in the snow is bad. Immediately let off throttle. If you feel bumping, vibing in the back, then that means the tires are breaking, grabbing, breaking and that is not good. Let off slightly and then ease into pedal again.

It's hard to tell in my vids, but I had to do that on occasion to keep momentum.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:41 PM
  #314  
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I stopped following TTC when they went away from only allowing street legal rigs in it. I just liked it better when it was real world rigs.


I forgot to mention before but yes I did get your emails a while back. I thought for sure I replied to you once or twice.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 01:23 PM
  #315  
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[As for the Redhead....wow, when I called I wasn't provided a choice on the steering ratio. Just gave them year, make, model and I'm very happy with mine. If it helps any (and I'd like to know), then my Item# is 2869 3T (from my invoice). Ask them what that one is relative to the ratio. I'd like to know....]Quote


I just ordered my Redhead steering box. The 2869 3T is the 15:1 ratio. 3T means 3 turns from stop to stop. I explained to Bryce at Redhead about my 1ton axle swap and that I'm running 37" tires and he said that the best way to go would be the 18:1 ratio as it would put less stress on the box. FYI. I kind of wanted to go with the quicker ratio, but decides to follow his advice. He said that they put the 3T's on the half tons but on the heavier trucks they suggest the 4T. I'm sure with their quality it probably does matter.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 05:53 PM
  #316  
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Sweet. Great of you to come back with what that refers to. Yeah, I wasn't anywhere close to the tire/suspension updates. We'll see how it does though. Hydro assist will be done at some point. I'll either port this box or go another route.

I'll find that older thread that compared Borgeson and Redhead to put this info in for people.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #317  
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I'm considering building up a Durango and doing a SAS on it. Either a ford d44/9" or 60s. I may be getting an 02 Durango fully loaded for free.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by Thornloe Pride
I'm considering building up a Durango and doing a SAS on it. Either a ford d44/9" or 60s. I may be getting an 02 Durango fully loaded for free.
Free? My favorite price.... What's wrong with it?

Would be a fun toy.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 08:38 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Free? My favorite price.... What's wrong with it?

Would be a fun toy.
It's my grandpas and he may be losing his license (he's 89) and he knows I love dodge. Anyways, its mint. 4.7, automatic 4 speed, 200,000km, fully loaded, leather, etc. I only wish it had the 5.2 or 5.9. Not too familar with the 4.7 other than I know it has new electronics. I read about a Durango solid axle swap years ago and I've always thought that would be cool, fun and unique.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 09:40 PM
  #320  
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4.7 = no plenum issues like 5.2 and 5.9
 
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