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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 11:28 AM
  #131  
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Damn man, how did that happen. Nice progress btw
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #132  
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Some dude backing out of his driveway hit me. It's a pretty deserted road so I'm guess he was feeling lucky...

It's cool at the same time cuz now I have time to wait for the oil filter adaptor and NOT tap into my oil pan.

I would have tapped into it just to finish by thev weekend
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #133  
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sucks, i got tapped on the same day by 2 different 18 yr old girls, in the same fender. worked out tho, got both their numbers. I'm still waiting on some of my an- fittings too arive, taking forever. I see you went with the good scav. pump. Im kicking myself in the *** for the one I bought, but ill ride it til it breaks then spend the dough. What size wrench to remove the sending unit? 1 1/16"?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #134  
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It's a 13. Make sure u grab the metal piece and not the sensor itself

It's in there tight BTW
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #135  
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its only a 13? is there a nut Im missing? I gotta clean it off and take a better look at it.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #136  
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Im pretty sure it was a 13. Take the filter off, it will be too hard with the filter in place. Did you get the T-fitting already? I got mine off of stealthmodeperformance.com
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 08:10 PM
  #137  
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The sandwich adapter will do nothing for you.

The oil at the sandwhich adapter is still under pressure and will not allow the oil to return properly.

On top of that, the oil that comes out of a turbo is quite frothy and is not something you want to try and lubricate your engine with. This is why oil returns from turbos always go into a pan, or valve cover to allow it to return to a proper oily state, before being pumped through the engine and turbo again.

What many people do with remote systems like this that use a return pump, they will put the return into the oil filler, by modifying an oil filler cap.

I would also try to lower the pump a little bit, to use gravity to help move the oil from the turbo to the pump, otherwise you can end up with oil getting through the seals in the turbo.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #138  
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Thanks for the advice shooter. The good thing is that I havent done anything regarding oil return yet. I should be getting the truck tomorrow.

I'm sorry Remme I don't think the sensor switch is a 13, I actually just remembered that I used an adjustable wrench to loosen it up. I was probably thinking of the oil pan nut which I loosened that same day
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #139  
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IMO, if it's a quality pump (the Exa-Pump is as good as it gets), it's fine where it is, they have been run a lot higher above the turbo than you have yours. At second glance your pump inlet looks to still be slightly below the turbo outlet.

And yes you need to return the oil to the valve cover or pan.

Also I haven't seen this covered. You should run a check valve on the oil supply line just before the turbo with a "cracking" pressure of 1-5PSI, this will prevent oil from running downhill into the turbo after you shut the engine off. It's also a good idea to run a check valve on the return side as well on the OUTLET of the pump, this will eliminate the need to run the pump for a few seconds after you shut the truck off.
By the time you see smoke coming from the exhaust, the damage is already done...to the turbo, at least.
BS. I lost a cheap scavenge pump, ~8000 miles later the turbo is still fine. Simply forcing oil out of the center section will not damage the turbo, if you run it long enough to run the motor out of oil you're obviously gonna have problems.
 

Last edited by Hahns5.2; Jul 25, 2011 at 11:41 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #140  
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Thanks Hahns, I will check into the check valve.

I did a bit of research on using the sandwich adaptor for the oil return and it seems to be generally accepted that the sandwich is only good for feed rather than return.

So back to tapping the oil pan it is.

See. This is why I love this forum. Lots of positive criticism
 
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