Im not 4x4, but the Haynes manual specifies that I'll need to lift the engine a bit off the monunts to be able to get the oil pan off.

By looking at the oil pan I dont even see why I would need to lift the engine. Has anybody done this before?

 

[QUOTE=Hahns5.2;2557487]BS. I lost a cheap scavenge pump, ~8000 miles later the turbo is still fine. Simply forcing oil out of the center section will not damage the turbo, if you run it long enough to run the motor out of oil you're obviously gonna have problems.
QUOTE]

Maybe I should have gone into slighly more detail. Once oil passes past the seals, once should consider replacing them. Just because you got away with it, doesn't mean that it's a universal truth. Typically, after one see's the blue out of the exhaust (relative to a turbo related failure, not rings or valve stem seals), it would be better to consider going through the center section. So no, its not "BS". But, I do agree with you though, I should have clarified. On another note, I would love to see your setup on the Dak. How many psi are you running, and what turbo? Thank God you got away with loosing a pump with no issues. I lost oil pressure for around 5-6 seconds at the track once (wasn't worth rebuilding the turbo, had to discard). But then again, I was at WOT. Engine bearings needed replacing. Cyclinders looked ok. Just needed a clean hone.

Mitsu, if you have the time, I would recommend one other alternative to tapping the pan. Get a bung and weld it. This would help eliminate stripping the threads.

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You have to clear the crank counterweights...

 

I do have a bung that I want to weld to the pan, but I still have to tap a hole in the pan first.

And absolutely NOONE will weld the bung with the oil pan still attached to the engine. Something about oil being flammable....pussies....


HUh? don't you see the counterweights AFTER you remove the oil pan?

 

FWIW a lot of people drill, punch and tap the pan still on the motor. Just use lots of grease to catch shavings.

As far as check vavles I can get you the part number for the vavles I used when I get home, I got them from McMasterCarr.
Having rebuilt my turbo I fail to see how oil flowing past the seals will damage them, loosing oil pressure at WOT is entirely different than a scavenge pump fail IMO.

Here's my build thread https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...rbo-build.html . I used a Holset H1C with a 21cm turbine housing. Currently at 6PSI, wanting to go with water/meth, up to 8PSI and more aggressive timing. At some point would like to switch to an MP T70 turbo as well.

 

Thanks for all the help, I got an appoinment with a local mechanic tomorrow, who is also a friend. We will be dropping the pan, and yes I will take some pics!

Thanks for the link hahns I will read ur build. Let me know about those part numbers

 

They are part number 4753K41. They are rated for 300º and have a 1-2PSI cracking pressure. At $30 each they aren't super cheap though. Basically if I haven't made it super clear, on the supply side it's the cracking pressure of the valve that will keep oil from flowing into the turbo when the truck is off, the anti-reversion part of the valve isn't what we're using it for. On the outlet side of the pump however we are using it for that purpose.

 

Well, to each their own. I tend to stay on a retardedly safe approach. What are you tuning with? Also, you may want to check out Garrett's line of turbochargers with their new billet compressor wheels. They are a bit spendy, but more than make up for it in performance and longevity (as long as you are ok with facilitating water or coolant lines to the center section). A guy a race with uses a Snow Performance kit. Seems to be a good deal.

Mitsu, I'm confused. If you have a bung, why do you need to tap the pan? Just drill a hole and weld. Did I miss something?