Yes the safc works by altering the airflow values. You can't alter ignition timing.

 

yes, i had my near stock standard 4.7 dyno at 181. then i got cams which added lets say a minimum 20. so thats 200. then with a sct can tune its another 15 at peak. then my motor blew and i swapped in a HO. ho is worth another 20ish over standard. but now i also have custom tuning. i basically tell people its between 240-260 at the tire. imo its a good estimate. still havent gone on the dyno yet.

 

Please explain.

I have been running couplers like this for years, all the guys I race with run couplers like this. 50+ psi doesn't affect them at all...unless you are getting the cheap 1 ply "cold air intake" couplers. It appears that the OP has used 4 or 5 ply coulpers.

Mitsu, the IC piping looks good. The compressor bypass valve (blow off valve) is mounted close to the throttle, which helps eliminate surge. Be aware that even though you are only running 7 psi, your airflow completely seperate from that. Remember that the more boost you run, the more of a restriction in the intake flow. Higher boost doesn't necessarily mean that you will have higher flow. Honestly, that intercooler wouldn't be enough (race-wise) for anything over 20psi for me. It wouldn't be able to keep the intake free or cold enough.
Also, don't worry about the SAFC right now. I used one forever until DSMLink came out with V2 for us 1G guys....then my world opened up. Use the SAFC enough to get the truck streetable for daily use by going to the dyno to make (legal WOT pulls). This is extremely easy to tune with the SAFC. The streetability is what is going to give you the challange. Selecting the hi/low map vs. throttle percentages completely screws with everything, and is relative to the specific application. You'll see what I'm talking about when you start the tuning process. I find that an hour on the dyno will be your best friend. Fine tune it from there on the street, since you are already equiped with a wideband.

Eric...dammit, I thought I done told you about your tuning tools. Lol. Your SAFC II is not useful to you at all. You will not need it, nor will you ever install it on your cars. SD is awesome for us racers, but needs proper, adaquate adjustment capability. ECMLink V3 or an AEM will be the only two items you will ever use in your car. If you are never going to run a MAF again, get an AEM. The only good product Apexi makes is the N1 muffler (for you fart can fans) and the AVC-R boost controller. But, I don't need that because my AEM already has that capability. And, the latest V3 version has that feature as well. Spend $30 at Grainger for a boost controller.

 

Thank you Donkey I found the info pretty helpful, always great to hear it from someone with experience. Once i get the unit I'll probably have some questions to shoot your way.

Eric, the turbo is not in yet. I need to install the SAFC, injectors,fuel pump, and scavenging pump first ( I have them all already, just have to get them in there).With that said... wanna sell that SAFC II?

 

this is the IC and set up I went with

 

I have a question, when I had the CAI on, there was an air temprature sensor and what looks like a vacuum line running into it, with the charge pipe going to the TB, what do you do with that vacuum line and sensor now?

 

The vaccum hose is a crank case vent to the intake. You can simply put a breather filter on it, as its not regulated with vaccum. Some would say this can cause more harm than good though, because the oil then accumulates inside your engine instead of entering the intake.

The sensor is the air intake temp sensor. You can simply run this anywhere, as it doesnt need to get the actual temp of the air going in the engine (it is used to control fuel maps at WOT I believe, all other times your fuel maps are based off your O2 sensors). I would probably attach it to the wheel well or something and call it done.

 

Remme that looks look!!! Im really glad there is someone else doing this at the same time, now I have someone to reference from.

Regnath is right. Put a filter over your cranckase vent. I did this a while ago to keep crankase exhaust gases from entering into my intake.


As for the sensor, Regnath also said it, its an intake temperature sensor. You can hang that somewhere inside the hood. The underhood temperature should be pretty close to the intake temperature with the turbo on.

But dude! tell us more about your turbo kit!!! How do you plan to go about engine management?