nice vid, what kind of muscle car was that you were up against? got a time?

 

71 Chevelle SS, I think I was mesmerized by the car, and redlighted. I felt honored to run with it

At 4300ft, all vehicles are pretty gimped. My best time all night was 15.69 @ 91. Not on that run though, I hesitated after redlighting and fumbled it. The Chevelle ran 14.121 @ 96

Altitude corrected, I would have run 14.85 at 95mph at sea level.

 

I can't help but notice that your rpms at 70 mph seem off. Unless you have a different tranny. I turn 2000rpms at around 78~79mph with the 545fre, but you're at 2000 at 70? Just seems weird to me.
Otherwise, great videos.

 

Might be the tire size and gear size corrections I made in Superchips.

Also, I don't know if the TC is locked up, but when its not locked in 5th, the RPMs will be higher, but once you are cruising and make no heavy throttle changes, the TC locks up, just like a clutch on a manual trans, and the RPMs will lower because there is no slipping

 

I think the 4.56 gears are a great combination. I have them with my 33's, and rev 2000 rpm at 60mph. It even handles my 23ft trailer pretty good with the 4.7 in it. I can just imagine how it would be with the Hemi and 400 horsepower.

 

The yellow striped wire is high, the orange stripe is low and black is common.

I wired up a Volvo dual speed fan relay today. Seems to work well, the power is fused with a 40 amp, which seems to be enough if I switch it on low first. Straight to high might blow it. Switch is run to the cab, but this switch can be replaced by a SPDT temperature switch (with 3 wires) if I can find a practical solution. Right now the only thing I can find is an M22 1.5 threaded switch from an Audi or Volkswagen, but it fits the bill if I get an addon radiator hose with a large enough sending unit hole already in it. It can be bored out and retapped.

But on the 4.7, it's easy! Just bore and retap the vacant 1/2 14NPT hole that is on the timing cover. Granted, that's the hot side so it may get readings higher than ideal, but that should work good with a 180 tstat.

Here's my stupid video, I narrated it and I hate hearing myself.

 

I think I'm going to forget about the Audi/Taurus temp switch. The BMW 3 series uses a much smaller M14 1.5 which will be easier to find a place for, instead of an m22

 

So it's final, I'll have detailed pics tomorrow or friday once I get my hose adapter tapped for the BMW switch and finish wiring. I can put this together in a way that anyone can do it. An easy to read schematic with pics and wire gauge recommendations, an updated video, a ham sammich, and a detailed parts list for hemi swaps and stock.

With the 4.7, this will be just a smidgen easier. I have to tap an in-line hose adaptor to get the BMW switch installed, because the 5.7 hemi truck timing cover has no spare 3/8npt bung for sensors. But car hemis and the 4.7 do have one. So this little guy here makes it easier.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...mpSending.html

If I subtract all the guessing expenditures, I will have $73 spent total. My adaptor was $25, and that thing I linked is $22, so 4.7 owners will spend 71 smakeroos for a 2 speed 4000+cfm cooling setup. Add a trans cooler, and you could tow a boat uphill for miles in 105 degrees with the AC on and never cringe at the temp gauge.

 

That looks almost identical to a Gen1 dakota sending unit..

 

Ah, the part for sell is just the bung. It's a 3/8th npt thread to m14x1.5 adaptor. The sensor they show is what they use on their jag motor swaps. But for this one I'm using a BMW temp switch... Not to be confused with a sender or sensor. Most kits use a sender and the switching happens in the controller module, but with the Audi/vw or smaller BMW switches, you can have a two way switch that is thermally operated for low high 2 speed fans.