So I got a '07 dakota that recently died on me after fueling up. Found that power steering and alt went out. Replaced both after running a little bit it died and did not restart, replaced fuel pump and ran for about 80 miles or so before it completely shut down. Pulled codes and have three different ones
PO463- fuel level sensor circuit high
P0688- Auto Shutdown Relay Sense Circuit
P0685- Auto Shutdown Relay Control

If any one has any ideas as to what needs to be looked at or ways to test it so I am not throwing parts at it would be great. I have tried to do some research but am not having any luck.

 

Welcome to DF. Trying to figure out how your power steering would cause the truck to shut off...anyway...

P0463 is the fuel level sensor, not the pump. Did you test the pump before replacing it?

The other codes are PCM related (faulty PCM), but what stands out is the P0688, which can be caused by a weak battery. These trucks start to do weird things when the battery starts going. Take it somewhere and have the battery tested. Since your alternator went out, the battery could be bad as well.

Bottom line: Check all the fuses and have your battery tested/replaced.

 

Yeah I got a feeling it wasn't the fuel pump at all. But at the time had no computer and went with what I knew. It has been some trying times with and some cash. I tested the battery and is running at 12.5v just as is and 11.5v with a load on it. So it is looking to be my PCM.

 

How did you test the battery? What kind of load? 11.5 is below 12 and believe me when I say the electronics on these trucks are sensitive. PCM's are not known for failures on these trucks.

 

It is one of your run of the mill battery load tester you buy from any tool truck. The only other thing I can try is hook up another vehicle as to jump start it and see what happens there. Some of these electronics are all new to me. I work on oilfield diesel equipment nothing to those really. Most are so outdated it's not funny. But I can't see how that half of a volt makes a difference although I do not know. But if that is the case it does save me 500.00 dollars in the process.

 

I would get ahold of a known good battery, one properly sized for your truck. Disconnect the battery for an hour or so, hook the new battery up and see what happens.

 

A battery showing less than 12 volts under load is most likely going bad. If you take your battery to a place like NAPA (there are others), they will do a proper load test on it and give you the results. The el-cheapo battery load testers don't always give you trustworthy results. If the battery turns out to be good, your charging system might be bad (still).

If it's easier for you to borrow a know-good battery, then follow jkeaton's instructions - do not just jump your truck with your old battery still stuck in the loop.

 

Replaced with newer better battery and no change. Do decided to quit playing with it and tow to dealer. Should find out tomorrow what is wrong and if there is something i missed. Thanks for all the help guys, will keep it posted as to what the problem is to help someone else.

 

Here is how you test the alternator while it is on the vehicle.
I found it at altpts.com

How to test your alternator on the vehicle:

To check to see if your alternator is working, unplug or remove the two field wires from the back of the alternator. Then ground one of the field terminals on the alternator and jumper the other field terminal to the positive battery post on the back of the alternator. It does not matter which terminal is grounded and which one get positive power. When you connect the ground and positive wires to the field terminals you will get a small spark, this is normal. This is by-passing the voltage control and will cause your alternator to run full blast, if it is working. Put a multi-meter on your battery and run your engine on high idle, do not allow your alternator to charge the battery much over 16 volts. If you find that your alternator is charging when you do this procedure, but does not charge when you connect it back to the computer, this kit will get your alternator working and charging at the proper voltage. The voltage regulator is preset at 14.5 volts. If you want to adjust the voltage regulator you use the screw on the back, but be sure the metal case of the voltage regulator is grounded while you adjust it.

Ref: QSERCK , ERCK, FRM, ERCKFRM external regulator kit