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Old Jul 28, 2019 | 11:21 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rogue Jackson
On those websites, when you select an item like Tow Hook, Right or however, is that all the parts you need to install it or do you need every single item it lists under that category?
Tow hooks are a good example. They used to be sold as a kit. The kit had its own part number. But, the kit has been discontinued. Now, you have to buy every listed part, assuming you're adding the hooks. If you have them and just need to replace specific part, you can get just the part. Best to look at the blow-up diagram. If there isn't a kit for it, you need every part in the diagram. Or, if you're replacing something, the diagram can help you pinpoint the exact part.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 11:32 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by philipat
Tow hooks are a good example. They used to be sold as a kit. The kit had its own part number. But, the kit has been discontinued. Now, you have to buy every listed part, assuming you're adding the hooks. If you have them and just need to replace specific part, you can get just the part. Best to look at the blow-up diagram. If there isn't a kit for it, you need every part in the diagram. Or, if you're replacing something, the diagram can help you pinpoint the exact part.
Thank you, yeah I see they no longer have all the parts for the tow hooks as well,

Mainly right now I noticed my drivers side rotor is marked up and I wanna find that thread that says which brands to get so I can replace those first, theres alot I wanna do but I'm of little money atm, still owe 10k on the truck itself haha. Rotors and brake pads and such are easy to do at home right? Basically pop the wheel off and then unbolt until they come off?

Also what are these 3 straps for in the back?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 06:35 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rogue Jackson
Thank you, yeah I see they no longer have all the parts for the tow hooks as well,

Mainly right now I noticed my drivers side rotor is marked up and I wanna find that thread that says which brands to get so I can replace those first, theres alot I wanna do but I'm of little money atm, still owe 10k on the truck itself haha. Rotors and brake pads and such are easy to do at home right? Basically pop the wheel off and then unbolt until they come off?

Also what are these 3 straps for in the back?
For the brakes and rotors, you can always go with OEM. Or, there were a couple of threads in my PDF. Mine were recently done using OEM. The truck was in for a routine inspection and they were needed, but I was just about to move. So, I didn't have time to do them myself. I've considered Power Stop, but I think someone tried them recently and posted very poor results. Not sure I want slotting or drilled rotors. They remove surface area from the rotor and that's important to stopping and heat dissipation.

The loops also have metal rings in them. They're for the LATCH system; see pgs 73-74 in your owner's manual.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 09:32 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by philipat
For the brakes and rotors, you can always go with OEM. Or, there were a couple of threads in my PDF. Mine were recently done using OEM. The truck was in for a routine inspection and they were needed, but I was just about to move. So, I didn't have time to do them myself. I've considered Power Stop, but I think someone tried them recently and posted very poor results. Not sure I want slotting or drilled rotors. They remove surface area from the rotor and that's important to stopping and heat dissipation.

The loops also have metal rings in them. They're for the LATCH system; see pgs 73-74 in your owner's manual.

The only thread I could access was the one about caliper issues, the other I tried even copying and pasting the thread and it said it couldnt find it. That was the one where proven upgrade brakes and rotors were discussed. The only others I saw were ACDelco and Coated Wagner combos, which I've never done rear breaks before, I know mine has Drums now, which I've never done either.

And I will give the Manuel a look, thank you for that.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 09:59 AM
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Retry:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...-metallic.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...-calipers.html

Just tested them and they work.

Search YouTube for how-to videos on changing brakes, disk and drum.

Here's a few that I found...probably a lot more.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 10:14 AM
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 02:17 AM
  #37  
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Another few questions for you guys:

I noticed that other thread about a shaky tranny or so around 30 to 50, and I gotta say mine seems shaky or funky whenever I accelerate, when I first press the pedal it seems to jump into going instead of easily shifting and then continues to seem loose or something in the rear end, would that Tow/Haul button fix that? Is that button not to be used over 50? As I also ask, I've never had 4wd before, so is it true that I shouldnt drive it over about 40 or so with that on? I'm trying not to damage anything lol. I. Noticed if I switched it to 4x4 lock itll engage, but if I do 4x4 low I have to be in neutral, correct?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 07:06 AM
  #38  
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For your warnings and "should / should not do's", I recommend reading those sections of your owner's manual.

Tow/haul and 4WD are different things. Tow/haul can be used above 50 mph; it adjusts your shift points to account for a load. 4WD has speed and surface limitations depending on whether you're in 4HI or 4LO.

If the shift points on your transmission don't seem right, you might need to have a dealership see if it needs to have the PCM updated. There a couple of TSBs that speak to that for 2010 and 2011 4.7s.
 

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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by philipat
For your warnings and "should / should not do's", I recommend reading those sections of your owner's manual.

Tow/haul and 4WD are different things. Tow/haul can be used above 50 mph; it adjusts your shift points to account for a load. 4WD has speed and surface limitations depending on whether you're in 4HI or 4LO.

If the shift points on your transmission don't seem right, you might need to have a dealership see if it needs to have the PCM updated. There a couple of TSBs that speak to that for 2010 and 2011 4.7s.

So I did the front end rotors and pads, drivers side caliper kept sticking so I replaced that too, passenger side had newer pads, rotor and caliper but replaced them anyway, went with Duralast and Duralast Gold brake items, have yet to do the drums but so far they are really good, much better petal and braking distance than I had prior, and my driving was to Detroit and back, some of the worst traffic haha

I noticed that Brake light keeps coming on and going off almost at random, and my brake fluid is up. Thinking a sensor is going bad? Itll happen randomly like on the highway out of the blue itll blink and then stop, blink and then stop and then just go away completly for the rest of the drive.

That happened on my latest job when I drove 100 miles out and 100 miles back home. Otherwise, front brakes are all good

Passenger side

New rotor, pads, drum's

Old rotors and pads from front end

Drivers side
 
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Old Aug 6, 2019 | 05:00 PM
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Will they check the PCM for free? I have a recall I got on the passenger side airbag inflator about it sending out metal fragments, which sounds like a grenade in my passenger seat lol
 
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