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2006 Dakota AC warm when stooped, cols when moving

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Old 10-27-2019, 09:13 PM
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Exclamation 2006 Dakota AC warm when stooped, cols when moving

2006 Dakota ac blows warm at idle and when stopped in traffic. Blows cold when moving. It doesn't seem to have have a separate condenser fan. Does the radiator / engine fan cool the condenser when at idle? If so, is it supposed to be turning when the ac is on max at idle? If so, it is not turning at all with ac on full at idle. Knowing this, is the fan clutch bad on the fan? Fuses check out good. Switched the relay with a known good relay and no joy. Too many people overcharge their system thinking that is the problem (I believe the charge is good). Any ideas?
 
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Old 10-28-2019, 09:53 AM
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Has the shroud been removed from the radiator? I remember back in the 70's when the car companies started putting those on, people would remove them to get more air flow. It's there for a reason so the air doesn't go around the radiator. You're definitely not getting enough air flow. With the engine idling, you should feel air flow through the condensor. Does the engine temperature vary between idling and driving?

While you're looking, make sure it stands up straight. It'll ruin it's posture running around stooped all the time.
 

Last edited by ol' grouch; 10-28-2019 at 09:54 AM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn.
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Old 10-28-2019, 11:41 AM
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Shroud has not been removed. The fan clutch is not turning on when the ac is on. Should the fan turn when ac is on? If it should, maybe fan clutch is bad? What do you think about adding an aftermarket electric fan to help the mechanical fan?
 
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Old 10-28-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bf1024
Shroud has not been removed. The fan clutch is not turning on when the ac is on. Should the fan turn when ac is on? If it should, maybe fan clutch is bad? What do you think about adding an aftermarket electric fan to help the mechanical fan?

The fan should turn anytime the engine is running. Electric fans should kick on when the a/c is engaged. The clutch makes the mechanical fan move faster or slower but it should always turn a bit.
 
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:36 PM
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On my 2011, there is a difference between the A/C temperature that blows from the vents when I've been sitting at light for a while and when I'm driving. You can feel the temperature drop as I pull away from the light, too. But, it doesn't get warm while sitting at the light, just not as frosty cold as it is when moving. How is the radiator/condenser? Is it corroding badly with the fins rusting together? Is it clogged with debris (bugs, etc)?
 
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Old 10-28-2019, 10:46 PM
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Radiator, fan,condenser...spotless. Since my clutch fan does not engage with the ac on, I have come to the conclusion that is the problem. I just bought an auxiliary electric 14" push/pull fan (90w, which will only pull 7.5A) on e-bay for $18 and I will wire it directly into my fuse box under the hood into an aux fuse like the radio fuse or similar. The fan will run continuously when engine/aux is on. Hopefully this will solve the problem. I may have to get a new ac fan clutch later, depending on my results. Hope I'm doing the right thing but it seemslogical to me todo this. Opinions???
 
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:17 AM
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From a mechanical standpoint... Because it seems all viewpoints right now are from airflow.

1) Don't assume there is a charge, you can pressure check your own pressure with the coolant bottle itself (otc stuff is made idiot proof so the manufacturer doesn't get jacked up). So you don't over pressurize the system. Try it, it is cheap, if it works you now have an answer.

2) Check your engine coolant level itself. If you engine is overworking to keep itself cool, than your air conditioning will blow hot. Idling is the second hardest thing an engine has to do aside from towing, because the machine is entirely responsible for cooling self as no air is moving.

!3!) Air conditioning relies on your accessory belt and the engine's vacuum. The compressor is turned with ever rotation of the engine. The more the engine turns the more output (cooling power) the compressor makes. Check to make sure the belt is firm and not loosing, the tensioner could also be at fault. Under load there would still be slippage but less noticeable. If your a/c works under light to mid throttle but you loose it again at idle and WOT throttle, you have a vacuum tube failure.
 
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:33 AM
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If you're still looking at an electric fan after trying Blacknights' suggestions, here's some info that might be helpful. But, I would try his suggestions first, especially the third one.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/search....rchid=10112447

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...oling-fan.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...ric-fan-2.html
 
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bf1024
Radiator, fan,condenser...spotless. Since my clutch fan does not engage with the ac on, I have come to the conclusion that is the problem. I just bought an auxiliary electric 14" push/pull fan (90w, which will only pull 7.5A) on e-bay for $18 and I will wire it directly into my fuse box under the hood into an aux fuse like the radio fuse or similar. The fan will run continuously when engine/aux is on. Hopefully this will solve the problem. I may have to get a new ac fan clutch later, depending on my results. Hope I'm doing the right thing but it seemslogical to me todo this. Opinions???

If the fan on your water pump isn't spinning at all, you really need to address that first. It also cools your engine and you're running the risk of overheating your engine.
 
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Old 10-29-2019, 11:31 AM
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Have you checked the fan clutch? It may be bad, if so I'd say replace that rather than rigging things up.
 


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