PVC intake DYI
#1
PVC intake DYI
Alright I did it today. I went and bought 2 3 inch elbows and a 2 foot section of 3 inch pvc. I bought a cone filter and and a oil breather filter ans some zip ties
It was pretty easy to put together Me and a friend got it done in about an hour. The hardest part was drilling a new hole for the mass air sensor.
I used a engine resistant paint which did not bond to the pvc very well... but oh well. I would recommend krylon fusion instead.
I must say it sounds louder and has changed my exhaust note on my flow 40 as well. I like it =)
I will get some pics up in few hours
It was pretty easy to put together Me and a friend got it done in about an hour. The hardest part was drilling a new hole for the mass air sensor.
I used a engine resistant paint which did not bond to the pvc very well... but oh well. I would recommend krylon fusion instead.
I must say it sounds louder and has changed my exhaust note on my flow 40 as well. I like it =)
I will get some pics up in few hours
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Back in Apr 07, I completed eng mod #2: installed a 4" sewer pipe to replace the 2nd airbox and the acordian hose. Don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other forums and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the last picture shows the pieces, including the cement for putting the pipe and elbow together. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared. This would have been better... The straight pipe is about 10 inches long. I copied Mad Hemi (http://www.*********.com/forums/show...ght=Home+Depot) but drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the last picture shows the pieces, including the cement for putting the pipe and elbow together. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared. This would have been better... The straight pipe is about 10 inches long. I copied Mad Hemi (http://www.*********.com/forums/show...ght=Home+Depot) but drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
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#9
Back in Apr 07, I completed eng mod #2: installed a 4" sewer pipe to replace the 2nd airbox and the acordian hose. Don't have any dyno sheets or 0-60 runs, but it sounds better than before, especially once the engine hits 2500rpm. From other forums and in the Dakota forums, this is good for 9-10hp. Here's a picture or two:
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the last picture shows the pieces, including the cement for putting the pipe and elbow together. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared. This would have been better... The straight pipe is about 10 inches long. I copied Mad Hemi (http://www.*********.com/forums/show...ght=Home+Depot) but drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
Not as good as AirRam's full CAI setup, but it does work...the last picture shows the pieces, including the cement for putting the pipe and elbow together. I started with a 90* elbow with 2 flared ends, but after I had hacked this one up I found some at Lowe's that had one straight 4" end and the other flared. This would have been better... The straight pipe is about 10 inches long. I copied Mad Hemi (http://www.*********.com/forums/show...ght=Home+Depot) but drilled a 1/2" hole (vice 3/8") in the final rubber reducer, primarily because the IAT sensor wires aren't long enough for me to mount it anywhere else. I figure a power wire will let me switch the rubber adapters and move it next to the air filter box... To drill the hole, I used a small piece of 1/8" wood trim clamped to both sides of the rubber adapter to keep it from wiggling around while I drilled thru the boards and the adapter. The IAT sensor is still a snug fit. I dabbed a little RTV around mine because I like to worry.
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