E-FAN tell me what you guys thinks about this one.
Ok, well I guess that's why it was cheaper than the one I got. Sounds like Alpheus will hook you up w/ anymore info you need, so good luck with your fan.
The controller I got did not have a relay. Its just a open switch with a heat probe that closes when the temp you set is reached. As for the relays I used a Ford relay part #
FOAB 14B192-AA 8236-1 09 2R If you cant find any for cheap or free and can wait a couple days I will send you a couple for free. I pulled about 15 of these things when I was at Pick & Pull... If you want I can draw up the wiring diagram I used also. It simplifies the wiring...
FOAB 14B192-AA 8236-1 09 2R If you cant find any for cheap or free and can wait a couple days I will send you a couple for free. I pulled about 15 of these things when I was at Pick & Pull... If you want I can draw up the wiring diagram I used also. It simplifies the wiring...
These must be from a Taurus/Sable with a 3.8L. The 3.0L is different. Also, you can get one from a 88-94 Lincoln Continental 3.8L. That's where I got mine from.
I also have one from the guy on Ebay. It is very clean and works great. It is going on my 63 F100 351W.
The fan with 30 day warranty $16.00 (Pull-a-part)
Hayden adjustable fan thermostat $35.00 (Pep-Boys)
Not having to worry about melting my 5.0 because I forgot to turn on the fan? Priceless
It is a good fan, but seems a bit small for a big Ram radiator. It is small on my Mustang radiator.
I also have one from the guy on Ebay. It is very clean and works great. It is going on my 63 F100 351W.
The fan with 30 day warranty $16.00 (Pull-a-part)
Hayden adjustable fan thermostat $35.00 (Pep-Boys)
Not having to worry about melting my 5.0 because I forgot to turn on the fan? Priceless

It is a good fan, but seems a bit small for a big Ram radiator. It is small on my Mustang radiator.
Last edited by lxman1; Apr 26, 2009 at 12:03 AM.
Don't worry about it, the taurus fan can easily keep a hemi cool. Make sure you mount it inside the stock shroud b/c that directs the airflow and allows it to cool the entire radiator vs. just cooling the area it is mounted over.
thanks for the diagram but I think I am more confused now than before (if that is possible) For each relay I will have one wire going to the battery and one to a ground?
You better have a good relay that can handle 42amps if you want to run high speed.
Most 30/40amp relays are actually only rated for 25 amps max. Even the kit I bought today for the adjustable thermostat was rated and fused for 25amps.
That drawing is close, but allows both speeds to be energized at once which I think is a no-no.
Most 30/40amp relays are actually only rated for 25 amps max. Even the kit I bought today for the adjustable thermostat was rated and fused for 25amps.
That drawing is close, but allows both speeds to be energized at once which I think is a no-no.
Last edited by lxman1; Apr 26, 2009 at 03:44 AM.
I have had 3 of these fans used in 3 different vehicles and not one of them pulled that many amps. The relays that I said to use works perfect. One of them is still working after more than 4 years now. They are rated for 40 amps and an 80 amp burst. Like I said I am using 40 amp fuses. Logically if the fan was pulling more than that the fuse would have blown by now dont you think? I am speaking from experience and not from what I have read. I am pretty handy when dealing with electronics I design avionics systems for todays very high tech aircraft. I am pretty sure I can handle an electric fan install
And as for the way I have it wired.I used diodes to separate the low speed when the high speed kicks on, but after further checking in to it they weren't needed. I put a multimeter on the low speed wire when the high was running and get 0 volts and vice versa on the low speed. The fan is diode protected already. Trust me it works this way its not my first time at bat on this...
But hey if you know more than me then be my guest and take this one...
And as for the way I have it wired.I used diodes to separate the low speed when the high speed kicks on, but after further checking in to it they weren't needed. I put a multimeter on the low speed wire when the high was running and get 0 volts and vice versa on the low speed. The fan is diode protected already. Trust me it works this way its not my first time at bat on this...
But hey if you know more than me then be my guest and take this one...
Last edited by Alpheus; Apr 26, 2009 at 04:12 AM.
I got My e-fan from p&p out of a 3.8 liter Ford Taurus for 26 dollars the relays I for for free I just ripped some out of some Ford Tauruses. I got the Temp controller from Advanced Auto Parts for 17 bucks and the 10 gauge wire and 2 fuse holders from Radio Shack. I hooked the low speed to Condensor fan and the high speed to the temp controller. As for the Myth that this fan pulls 100 amps on start up and you need giant relays is crap. I am a wiz when it comes to electronics and I measured the amps that this fan pulls in many different situations. Even holding the fan blade with my hand and starting it up only pulled 61 amps. It pulls 36 amps at start up and runs a constant 24 amps after that. I am running 2 40 amp fuses and the 2 Ford relays for a long time now and never had a problem. If you need any help let me know and I will walk you through it. I have less than 50 bucks in the install...
And it DOES pull over 100 amps.
Last edited by RubberFrog; Apr 26, 2009 at 06:06 AM.







