If you have a single relay for both ballasts and had a voltage spike, you most certainly could have fried both at once. A reason I have a relay for each side.
The only way you can check that I am certain of is by unplugging your ballast connectors and probing the connectors on the relay end to see if the relay is providing power to the ballast. I am not sure how to check power at the bulb end. Gotta be careful with that side!!! Thousands of AC voltage at start-up!!!

 

I had an HID retrofit last February or March, and have had no issues except one, which has happened twice. Last October, I was driving home and my passenger side light went out. I drove home, and the next day when I turned on the lights, both went on. And I've had no problems up until last night, when the same thing happened. And when I turned on my lights this afternoon, both went on. I didn't really have time to get a good look at it, but nothing looked damaged and all the connections looked tight. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about what the problem could be, whether it could be the bulb or ballast going bad, maybe a bad connection, or something else (I hope not).

 

If the pass side went out then it is something directly related to that side. Since the relay that powers BOTH ballasts get thats power from the drivers side, it cannot be the connection there. So i would check the connections from the pass side ballast to the bulb, the ground on the pass side ballast. After that, all you have left is the bulb and ballast itself which you could swap with the drivers side to test.

 

ok i have some issues i have a 2006 RAM 1500 Big Horn and got some HIDs i bought single beam H13 kit and also bought the error cancellers. i dont have flickering issues or lamp out issues. but i turn my headlights on they both fire up then one side will go out or both and stay off for random amount of time then fire back up, they will not stay on consitently. My kit just had the ground and low beam wires with just the prongs so i stick the prongs into the ground and low beam sockets on the factory connector but the high beam socket is now empty. Is having the highbeam sockets not utilized causing the TIPM to freak out and shut my lows of an on? and how do i go about fixing this?

 

Welcome to the site.

Your truck originally came with both low and high beams and thats what it is looking for. Because it is not finding both is why you are having some of the issues you are seeing.

 

okay so how do i got about fixing this i am no where new to the HID game have had HIDs for 3 years now in several vehicles and have done installs on several vehicles but this truck is beating me

 

Ok, I finally got around to checking everything. I first turned the lights on and they both went on, but I turned them off and back on again (after some time to let the bulbs cool down) and driver’s side went on, but the passenger side was off. I switched the bulbs around, same thing. I switched the ballasts around, same thing. I checked the ground, all the connections, and the wiring harness itself, and everything looked good. Could the wiring harness itself go bad? That’s the only thing I can think of.

 

You guys with 2006, 2007, 2008 Ram trucks. If your experiencing ANY problems, remove cancellors or resistors, whatever you have and go to a direct plug"n"play set-up and diagnose from there. This will eliminate any TIPM problems. The TIPM will just throw a High resistance code if there's no flashing(safe) If your overdrawing and one side is shutting off intermittently, that is prob the tipm from current overload.(not safe)

 

when i remove my cancellers the headlights just flicker constantly they dont shut off just flicker with cancellers they dont flicker but shut off randomly

 

It's probably because your using cancellors. Cancellors are capacitors. Capacitors on start-up drain lots of current. Way too much for the stock electrical circuit.
Get those out of there and try resistors that are mentioned in the very first thread.