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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #401  
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well "ALL DONE" with my hid lights, someone had mailed me the proper resistor to use to get my hid lows to work. i ended up connecting the resistor to my stock headlight plug harness low positive wire and to the negative wire. started truck and everything is fine. thank-you to the person who sent me the resistor.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #402  
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Originally Posted by 06Dak4.7Silver
2006 Dodge Dakota - I bought the CANBUS kit from HIDExtra on Black Friday
I installed the kit and the lights work fine (35w ballasts, 8k, etc..). However, once I turn off my lights or flash my high beams (halogen high) my low beams will not come back on..After I let the truck sit for a few minutes they will come back on again when I turn the switch and stay on. They work great for me and I love them but my problem is I can't shut them off because then I have no lights for atleast 10 minutes. Its like once the ecm goes into sleep mode and everything shuts off they will activate again. I bought capacitors from the same vendor to try to fix the problem (they actually recommended capacitors but said a relay was optional). Plugged those in Saturday and I have the same problem..nothing changed. Any ideas?
same question, weed and dirty you guys are doing a superb job answering all these questions/problems
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 01:08 AM
  #403  
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^^^ THX

However, I never recommend or like caps. I always suggest and personally use load resistors.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 07:20 AM
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ok so if i go down to the ballasts and a plug and play, what would solve the problem of waiting that ten minutes for them to work again?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:11 AM
  #405  
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Yes. These things are really simple and IDK why you guys wanna complicate it.

You need your ballasts, bulbs, harness (for headlights) and load resistors.

As i have said here many time, CANBUS ballast do not normally work. At least ive never had a set or seen anyone else with a set that worked.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by weedahoe
Yes. These things are really simple and IDK why you guys wanna complicate it.

You need your ballasts, bulbs, harness (for headlights) and load resistors.

As i have said here many time, CANBUS ballast do not normally work. At least ive never had a set or seen anyone else with a set that worked.
haha thanks, i read through the whole post, i guess i slacked off at around page 30 it got painful to read it all. what ones do you suggest on getting for a hella hid conversion (summer project)?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #407  
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Wat type of Hella's? Some cant be retrofited
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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500s you can use a dremel to the back side of the light bulb, and it should fit in the housing, but you have to drill the wire hole bigger tho
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 04:55 PM
  #409  
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Hello all,

Found this site yesterday as I was trolling Google for answers to my HID problems. Read this thread backwards and sideways and realized that I am at a loss now... I am pretty sure I have installed everything correctly and I am still having issues with the lights randomly turning off. Sometimes one, Sometimes the other, Sometimes both. It has even gotten to the point where I sat there flipping them on and off about 10-15 times, and then they stayed on. Almost seems like once they warm up, you are good to go. Yeah.. no.

So here is my setup and any thoughts on what to check next would be fantastic.

2003 Ram 1500 QC
HID 6000K from this EvilBay auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200720426528...84.m1439.l2649

Load resisters from this EvilBay auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140637518824...84.m1439.l2649

Wired everything up yesterday and started having issues. Gave up in favor of research. Today I go out intending to swap ballasts around and such, pull one light and look at the load resistors. WOW, POOR QUALITY connections. They are just stripped wires with a cheapo crimp job.. tug lightly and you can pull apart. OK.. pulled them all apart and soldered them back on and wrapped. Re-did ALL of the wiring with dielectric grease and then electrical tape to make sure nothing would work loose. Removed the self tapper screw on relay kit ground, took down to bare metal and used a larger screw in there to make sure it won't work loose as well as covered all with dielectric grease. Mounted all the resistors to metal for better heat dissipation. Ballasts are mounted to metal as well. Also had replaced some ground wire to battery as with the body lift.. things were tight and I just never got around to fixing that up.

After all of this today, still back to same problem... turn them on.. about 30 seconds they turn off... sometimes pass side first followed by drivers, sometimes other way around. After a few on and off cycles, pass stayed on, drivers shut off. Yesterday was exact opposite. I did not swap ballasts or bulbs around from yesterday, so it is random.

The ONLY thing I have noticed from this thread is that extra (2 prong weather proof) plug on pass side that doesn't get power. Diagrams I have found as well as this thread have indicated only one side is connected. I basically shot dielectric grease in the holes and then taped it up heavy to prevent water issues in future. I noticed a post or two about that extra plug maybe needing a resister setup on it in some trucks ? The only link I saw was a picture of the blue 3 prong plug with a resistor setup.. sort of a make your own load resistor setup, but nothing for this black 2 prong plug.

I talked to a buddy that owns a shop up the road and has installed a set of HID in his 2nd gen ram figuring he may have something I missed... he says sounds like the light switch is shutting down because of the load on it. I said I didn't think so because of the relay in there taking the load off of switch. I didn't bother putting meter on there yet because I really don't want to yank dash apart to check current draw at switch, but I may have to....

Well enough going on and on.. wanted to give all details that I could and see if anyone has any thoughts that can lead to a solution.

Thanks in advance for any and every piece of advice.

-Scott
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:34 AM
  #410  
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^^^ Let me ask and make sure you have (4) 50 wall load resistors with TWO being on the pass side and TWO on the driver side right? Each wired from low beam to ground and high beam to ground right?

If you have that correct then with the key OFF and the lights on, do they work fine? Or is it when you have the key ON that you have these issues?
 
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