Installing E-Fan, any Tips?
#1
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Hey guys, well the modding never stops. My local Pick-a-parts had a 50% off sale this weekend so I went and grabbed 3 electric fans, one from a Marc IV, and two from a Taurus. All three are the same fans with two fan speeds, and we will be installing mine today along with my buddies on his 06 Ram Hemi. They were only $16 each! So I bought 3 in case one doesn't work. Got them home, and they all work perfectly. Any tips or suggestions to make this as easy as possible? I plan to slightly modify the shroud in order to continue to use the factory fan shroud. The only thing I see being somewhat of a problem would be the radiator overflow and window washer fluid tanks. I am not sure where I can relocate these, but maybe I won't even have to? I am hoping not. Other than that, I already bought an adjustable fan controller from a local race shop that comes with the relay and probe as well as the adjuster (sp?). We are both pretty mechanically inclined so I don't see this being a hard task or anything, just wanting to hear from those who have done this mod, and maybe any problems they have encountered. Wish me luck, I will try to take pictures if I remember.
#2
#3
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I left my shroud intact, and the bottles as they were.. you can grab up some lightweight railing and make a nice little bracket that will be more than sufficient..
use at least 12ga wire from the battery.. I'd rec using 10ga.. solder connections if you can, buy a package of pinch-taps if you can't.. wrap them tightly in electrical tape either way..
use relay AND fuse protection.. all in-line.. fused at the battery.. Many may disagree, but I believe the fans themselves to be almost consumable- meaning, you'll replace them at some point depending on the quality of the fan.. the wiring though, THAT should NOT be considered consumable or temporary.. do it right the first time and walk away knowing you'll not have a problem with them.
use at least 12ga wire from the battery.. I'd rec using 10ga.. solder connections if you can, buy a package of pinch-taps if you can't.. wrap them tightly in electrical tape either way..
use relay AND fuse protection.. all in-line.. fused at the battery.. Many may disagree, but I believe the fans themselves to be almost consumable- meaning, you'll replace them at some point depending on the quality of the fan.. the wiring though, THAT should NOT be considered consumable or temporary.. do it right the first time and walk away knowing you'll not have a problem with them.
#4
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Thanks for the input, I will check out that thread weed.
As far as the controller goes, I bought two different controllers and havent decided which one I want to use yet. One of them is made by Hayden PN 3647 which includes a relay, in line fuse, adjustable temp and the probe which is mounted externally. The second controller I picked up is made by TorqFlo and doesn't have a fuse in line, or a relay that I can see (unless it is some how built into the controller). The probe on that one is actually mounted inside the radiator hose. I guess the Hayden would be a better choice? I am pretty good at running wiring clean and usually use solder. If not, I use pinch-taps and heat shrink.
As far as the controller goes, I bought two different controllers and havent decided which one I want to use yet. One of them is made by Hayden PN 3647 which includes a relay, in line fuse, adjustable temp and the probe which is mounted externally. The second controller I picked up is made by TorqFlo and doesn't have a fuse in line, or a relay that I can see (unless it is some how built into the controller). The probe on that one is actually mounted inside the radiator hose. I guess the Hayden would be a better choice? I am pretty good at running wiring clean and usually use solder. If not, I use pinch-taps and heat shrink.
#5
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After reading through a bunch of electric fan install threads, I have found that the controller by Hayden is fairly popular, I guess this will be the controller I use and I will take the other one back. Some people talked about upgrading to a higher amp relay, is this necessary to run the fan on low speed? It seems that the general consensus is that our trucks only need the low speed setting as it pulls more than enough air. I will be mounting my fan in the original shroud in order to be able to keep the stock overflow and washer tanks.
#7
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I think nearly everyone has the controller energize a 40 amp relay, so any surges pop the relay not the controller. Low side is good for 40 amp relay
Make sure you seal up the the connector to the fan itself well, mine's been giving me trouble lately. It won't kick on, and when I just barely wiggle the wires to the fan it kicks on
Make sure you seal up the the connector to the fan itself well, mine's been giving me trouble lately. It won't kick on, and when I just barely wiggle the wires to the fan it kicks on
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#8
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Got it all finished. I ended up wiring it up to the high speed switch, but also wired up the low speed switch (it's just not connected) so that I can switch from high to low depending on the season. I will eventually put an override switch in the cab to allow me to switch from high to low as needed. The install took a few hours and a few beers to finish but it was straightforward and simple. I have to give props to my buddy Derek who helped me out with the install. He made it that much easier, plus he supplied the beer, haha. I will try to post up some pictures of how we mounted the fan in the factory shroud tomorrow. We did both of our truck at the same time, and couldn't be more happier..
#9
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Here are a couple of pictures after we modified the fan slightly as well as the shroud in order to piece them together for a factory fit.
The shroud needed to be trimmed slightly at the top to accommodate the Mark VIII fan. We also cut 1/2" off of the bezel around the fan using a table saw as well. It worked out perfectly and the fan sits tightly inside the factory shroud. No brackets or mounting hardware needed, only a few self tapping screws and the factory shroud bolts.
![](http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm306/bgbluram/fAN.jpg)
And this is the back side of the fan. When this thing is on high, it really pulls a lot of CFM.
The shroud needed to be trimmed slightly at the top to accommodate the Mark VIII fan. We also cut 1/2" off of the bezel around the fan using a table saw as well. It worked out perfectly and the fan sits tightly inside the factory shroud. No brackets or mounting hardware needed, only a few self tapping screws and the factory shroud bolts.
![](http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm306/bgbluram/fAN.jpg)
And this is the back side of the fan. When this thing is on high, it really pulls a lot of CFM.
![](http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm306/bgbluram/fn2.jpg)