AC Coldness
#72
#73
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My 06 Megacab just did the same thing. There is a TSB to fix this and the dealer had the truck for about 7 hours to complete. They have to take the dash apart to get at it, but works fine now! Even in our AZ heat, A/C is very cold. Truck cools down nicely, even at 110 out side at Lake Havasu. Window tint makes a huge difference too!
#74
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lxman1 is absolutely correct about temp - outside ambient temp plays a big key in getting things working up to par. I just recently spenmt the last 2 weeks trying to fine tune my Baby Hulk A/C after replacing a valve stem in the Low-Side port. I have found that when Vacuuming and ESPECIALLY Recharging with R134 the best environment to do this is the absolute HOTTEST environment you can create. Yes the HOTTEST - when the A/C system is running it builds pressure and that pressure is affected by the ambient temp, therefore do it when it is the HOTTEST ambient temp you can stand/create and you will be sure to (1) not OVERFILL with R134, and (2) remove future possibilities of False diagnosis such as Hi-Pressure Cut-out switch being bad when it could only be that the outside ambient temp is very Hot, and you might have filled/recharged your system when it was much cooler, therefore all the molecule involved in the system (compressor, hoses, condensor, evap, etc) weren't expanded to their full capacity. I spent a lot of time researching this - I'm no HVAC tech, thos I could hold my own after spending lots of hours on the Dodge forum and UTube
, and I just today avoided replacing my Hi-Pressure cut-out switch by doing a shadetree test in 91+ degree weather today, under stop-n-go driving conditions - I had too much R134 in my system (which I filled when the ambient temp was in the low 70's weeks ago) and found out this week as the temp has been in the steady 90's and even 100's here in Nashville, that my system was building up too much pressure. Remedy - (for me that is) - got it hot as possible (driving for minimum 30 mins) in 90+ degree weather, until the system shut itself off (tested the hi-pressure switch by using jumper wire), took it home, let it idle (20 mins) to engine temp of 213 degrees (simulating traffic jam in New York City), running A/C, check pressure, shut it down, removed some of the R134 until I felt comfortable (system holds about 36 ounces - I probably have about 30-32 to allow for super hot day heat expansion. System now has run constanlty and hadnt shut down in the hot weather yet - just like its suppose to. Now mindy you, the only gauge I have is a generic one for refilling, but I know MY system cuz I have been the only one to maintain it. We are close as Butter-n-Bread
- So lxman1 is aboslutely right about ambient temperature and I HIGHLY recommend refilling/charging your system (if needed) in the HOTTEST weather/environment you can stand/create.
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#75
#77
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more importantly to correct my above suggestion, you might want to use a garden hose and run cool water across your condensor while refilling, simultaneously holding the large line exiting the firewall with your hand (if you dont have a set of gauges and your filter is inline on hi-side) to see when it gets cold. As soon as that line you're holding gets cold - STOP filling - that's all you need. This is a Home technique without manifold gauges . . . see this guy he's got it down to a hillbilly science http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNR7...e=channel_page
#79
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Are you a reptile or something??? ![Big Grin](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
You don't run water over the condenser, that's what the fan is for. What a doofus. The water will give false readings. Like trying to charge the system by pressure in the winter time.
Would have made more sense if he would have actually worked on a running car.
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You don't run water over the condenser, that's what the fan is for. What a doofus. The water will give false readings. Like trying to charge the system by pressure in the winter time.
Would have made more sense if he would have actually worked on a running car.
Last edited by lxman1; 07-16-2009 at 06:00 PM.
#80
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Guys---and gals, the only real "right" way to get the charge system right, is to pull the charge with a recovery pump, pull as deep a vacuum as you can, then slowly add r-134a back into to the system until you reach the correct weight added. You may need to add more or subtract some until you reach the correct amount. This includes the gas thats in the low side hose, and if the manifold is set up for it, the high side line also. If you go much over or under, you will loose efficiency of the system. Its better to have just a hair bit not enough than too much because overcharging the system will cause undo stress on the compressor, raise the over all system pressure and temperature, and can cause the oil to break down causing compressor seizing. If you can find a set of guages that have the environmental check valves or the ball valve on the end, it makes this much easier. You want to get this weight charged in to within an ounce +/-
Make sure the condenser is clean----very important!!! this is where all the heat absorbed inside the cab leaves the system. If there is any blockage at all, the efficiency goes down.
One more way to help is to open the windows at first when you take off, this will exchange the usually hotter air in the cab to whatever it is outside, as soon as you get the truck started, start the a/c on recirc, and max air cfm, it will pre-cool the duct work while you're driving down the road, before you roll up the windows. Do this for 5 minutes then close up the cab---it really does help.
Yes -I am a reefer tech--for over 20 years. The systems in these trucks are just marginal as far as capacity--unfortunately, to up size the system would require an entirely differnt system----but, anything you can do to keep the condenser coil clean, and the condenser fan running at optimum speed will help, and increase the life of the system--same goes for your a/c for the house.
Make sure the condenser is clean----very important!!! this is where all the heat absorbed inside the cab leaves the system. If there is any blockage at all, the efficiency goes down.
One more way to help is to open the windows at first when you take off, this will exchange the usually hotter air in the cab to whatever it is outside, as soon as you get the truck started, start the a/c on recirc, and max air cfm, it will pre-cool the duct work while you're driving down the road, before you roll up the windows. Do this for 5 minutes then close up the cab---it really does help.
Yes -I am a reefer tech--for over 20 years. The systems in these trucks are just marginal as far as capacity--unfortunately, to up size the system would require an entirely differnt system----but, anything you can do to keep the condenser coil clean, and the condenser fan running at optimum speed will help, and increase the life of the system--same goes for your a/c for the house.