Hey all,

I just bought the van in the title line, I think it has a 4 sp with od (gear indicators are P-R-N-D-3-L). On the test drive, it behaved very nicely, but the day after I brought it home, the hard downshifting when coming to a stop began. I can make it a lot less noticeable if i pop it into N before coming to a complete stop. It also smooths out after driving around a lot in stop and go city traffic. I'm also noticing that it seems to take a little longer than I would expect to go from 1st to 2nd, judging on the other automatics I've owned (not many).
Anyway, I checked the dipstick the fluid is red and does not smell burnt.
1) Could this be related to the tranny possibly having the wrong type of fluid? I got a case of atf +4 and a filter. I'm going to do a complete flush tomorrow.
2)is there anything else I can do while the pan is off?

THank you in advance,

Mike

 

Okay, I finished with the atf change. I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, o ring and gasket. Filled it up and got ready to flush the tranny cooler. I wasn't sure which hose was the return line so I guessed the lower one. Wrong with this tranny. The upper one is the correct one to disconnect. Also I found it much easier to remove the hose from the tranny than from the rad (a 1/2" open wrench came in handy to help push the hose off the nipple).

After flushing the tranny cooler and taking it out on test drives to fill to the correct level, I noticed that the downshifting was smoother, and it got progressively better as I went on. Could it be the tranny re-learning?'

Is there some sort of procedure to expedite the re-learning process if that's what was happening? Or do I have to bring it to a dealer?

Thanks again for reading, and looking forward to your replies.
Mike

 

does your vehicle have a throttle link cable between your intake and the transmission? that may need to be adjusted. I'm sure my 98 3 speed is different from yours, but adjusting my throttle linkage cable fixed a 2-3 shift flare. the throttle link is vital to proper function as it regulates how much fluid pressure is given and shift timing/quality. It is not only used for kickdowns, at least on my transmission. sorry, but you'll have to find out how to adjust for your specific vehicle, or it may be electronic.

 

I'm having the same transmission problem with my '95 Caravan Sport that I had in March of 2011... went into "limp mode" as I was accelerating on the freeway. I had the input and output sensors replaced at that time, along with transmission fluid flush, new filter and gasket. Took it back to AAMCO where the sensors were replaced (they also installed a rebuilt transmission for the previous owner in Jauary, 2008). Tomorrow, the tech at AAMCO is going to hook up my transmission to one of their solenoids to see if that could be the problem. He mentioned that usually they recommend replacing the solenoid at the same time as the input and output sensors, but it wasn't done in March, 2008 (shop was under different owner at that time.)

So, I want to go into the shop with as much knowledge about my transmission as I can. This is by far the best forum for that, and I trust your experience and answers to previous questions. These are my concerns:

1) What are your thoughts about replacing the solenoid? What are the odds that this could be the problem?
2) What brand of transmission fluid do most shops use? I've read that the Dexron fluid that's recommended for my year van could possibly be causing early transmission failure, and that in recent years ATF+3 is the fluid of choice, and that ATF+4 is recommended for 1999 and newer. Since mine in a '95, what could potentially go wrong if I insist they flush the transmission and refill with ATF+4 if ATF+3 is no longer available?
3) The tech also said they are not getting any codes that would suggest a solenoid problem, but I've read that the codes on a van of my vintage don't always come up. Do I have a computer in my '95 Caravan that will show me codes? Is this something I can have done at a car parts store?
4) These were the conditions when my van went into "limp mode":
a) My van had been in 10 MPH traffic for almost half and hour due to an accident.
b) Outside temperature was unusually warm for this time of year (80 degrees).
c) As soon as the accident cleared, I sped up to 60 MPH, and engine immediately
lost power and dropped to 40 MPH as I pulled over to the slow lane. Any attempt
go over 40 MPH caused RPM's to rise to 4,000.
5) Given the above conditions, would there be any advantage to getting a transmission fluid cooling unit?

Lots of questions, but I really want to go into the shop with as much knowledge as possible (paintrlady is a lady, afterall)! I'm a little annoyed that Dodge has continued to make transmissions with this problem, causing many owners to prematurely replace their transmissions. But happy to have found this forum to get some answers! Thanks for your help! Judy

 

Judy

The information that i will share, goes for everyone. With the A604/41TE as well as the 62TE. You need to know the PCM and TCM controller numbers and is there any flash updates. Next the fluid level and condition, Do you have any active or stored codes, What are the CVI readings LR, 2/4, OD and UD. CVI ( Clutch Volume Index ) and the last thing. Perform a clutch test, and which clutch pack as failed. Tell the shop you want a print out of the information i have just given. And then tell them you will let them know on the next day. This way you can get some feedback from either a member or send me a pm. Ther was also a TSB to move the transmission controller harness away from the spark plugs. That was because the transmission harness is picking up RFI from the spark plugs. What you do is use tie straps and tie the harness to the A/C line.

Here is the TSB, Print it and take it with you. And if they ask where you found the TSB, Tell them you got it from Dodge Master Tech.

NO: 08-07-94 Rev. B
SUBJECT: Harsh Shifting at Low Speed and/or Digital Speedometer Fluctuates at Idle
DATE: Dec. 16, 1994
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 08-07-94 REV. A DATED OCT. 21, 1994 WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. THE REVISION CLARIFIES THE SYMPTOMS, CHANGES THE DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE, ADDS A NOTE TO THE REPAIR PROCEDURE AND PROVIDES A VEHICLE CLEAN POINT. ALL REVISIONS ARE MARKED WITH **ASTERISKS**.

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 41TE TRANSMISSION AND A 3.3L OR 3.8L ENGINE **AND BUILT PRIOR TO NOV. 1, 1994, MDH 11-11-XX.**

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
**The transmission may have inconsistent shift quality at vehicle speeds less than 10 MPH. Harsh 1-2 up shifts or 2-1 coast down shifts can randomly occur, usually 5-10% of the time. As spark plug wires age, harsh shifting may become more frequent. Also, the DIGITAL speedometer may fluctuate slightly (2 MPH) while the vehicle is parked and the engine is at idle.** These symptoms can be the result of induced voltage between the spark plug wires and the output speed sensor wires. No Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are set due to the condition.

DIAGNOSIS:
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS) or the Scan Tool (DRB II/III) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedure Manual, verify that all engine and transmission systems are functioning as designed. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them on the repair order for future reference and repair as necessary before proceeding. If the fluctuating speedometer and/or harsh transmission shift condition is not corrected after repair of any or all DTC's, continue the diagnosis as follows:

If using the MDS, select EATX State Display/Special Test/RPM Display, then monitor the Output Speed Sensor. With the transmission in **any drive gear and the parking brake and service brakes fully applied (DO NOT ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO MOVE)**, vary the engine speed slowly from idle to 1800 RPM **(DO NOT PERFORM THIS TEST FOR MORE THAN 10 SECONDS AT A TIME)**. If the output speed sensor display does not remain at zero, perform the repair procedure.

If using the DRB II/III, select Transmission Systems/(41TE/State Display DRB II only)/Monitors/RPM Display, then monitor Output RPM. With the transmission in **any drive gear and the parking brake and service brakes fully applied (DO NOT ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO MOVE)**, vary the engine speed slowly from idle to 1800 RPM **(DO NOT PERFORM THIS TEST FOR MORE THAN 10 SECONDS AT A TIME)**. If the output RPM does not remain at zero, perform the repair procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Quantity
Part No.
Description

1

6004514
Clip Strap

AR

6015756
Tie Strap

AR

4778138
Black Tape MS-CH71A (3/4 in. x 100 ft. roll)

AR

4688708
Aluminum Tape (1 in. x 60 yd. roll)



REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This procedure involves covering the wiring harness near the spark plug wires with aluminum tape to prevent the spark wires from inducing false signals into the output speed sensor wiring that connects to the Transmission Control Module (TCM).

Remove and discard the tie strap holding the wiring harness to the right engine mount. (See Illustration)
Remove the wiring clip from the spark plug cable separator bracket and wiring harness. On some 1993 model vehicles, the wiring may be held to the bracket with a tie strap. If so equipped, remove and discard the tie strap.
Remove the wiring clip from the oil dipstick by opening the clip. Do Not remove the clip from the wiring harness or otherwise damage the clip.
Wrap the wiring harness (over the convolute) with aluminum tape, P/N 4688708, using a 25% overlap. Wrap the wiring harness from the oil dipstick clip to within 4 in. (100 mm) of the clip at the right engine mount. ( See Illustration)
**NOTE: THE TAPES MUST BE APPLIED AS DESCRIBED FOR THE REPAIR TO BE EFFECTIVE.**

Cover the aluminum tape **using a 25% overlap** with black tape MS-CH71A, P/N 4778138. **Triple wrap the harness in the area of the A/C compressor high pressure relief valve.**
Re-install the wiring harness and clip at the dip stick.
Install a tie strap, P/N 6015756, at the right engine mount with the tie strap going through the wiring clip and through the outboard horizontal hole in the engine mount bracket.
Install a clip strap, P/N 6004514, to the engine wiring harness at the spark plug cable separator bracket and plug it onto the bracket. If the vehicle originally had the wiring strapped to the spark plug separator bracket, replace the tie strap.
**Position the spark plug cables to provide the maximum distance away from the transmission wiring harness.**

 

update: after changing the fluid, the tranny still exhibits a hard downshift from 2-1 when coming to a stop. it just goes away after the transmission is nice and warm.

i will bring the van to a dealer to ask them to pull codes and to check if there are any flash updates.

i will also move the transmission harness away from the plug wires.

thanks, Mike

mastertech, how do if find out what the pcm and tcm controller numbers?

 

I use the DRB3, which i use at the dealership.

 

thanks mastertech. i was getting ready to bring the van to the dealer, but after driving the caravan around a bit, the hard downshift went away completely. everything is smooth, except.... i was trying to back into a parking space up a hill and reverse gear slips when under load.

does that mean the whole tranny has to be replaced?

 

You may have a leaking Low reverse accumulator cover seal. The valve body would need to be removed to repair the seal. But you can also have a clutch test done with the DRB3 or have a line pressure test done. But this just a guess.