This IFS will be the death of me. I struggled for hours the other day trying to make sure everything is right. The cross member appears to be square and level. I installed the control arms, and the lowers are level at ride height. So, the upper ball joint should be behind the lower, and the angle between their centers should be about 4 to 5 degrees of caster angle. I am using a manual steering rack just in case anyone wants to know. If it was power steering, I could add a little more, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Then the upper control arm pivot point should be set at around 5 degrees for anti-dive. The drivers side is set, and looks to be going okay. The passenger side has just made a mockery of me. Ill deal with it again saturday, and maybe have more information. The more I look at it, the more I notice little things, Like the lower control arms are nor perfect mirror images of each other. I am trying to avoid cutting the whole thing out. I think Im going to build in some extra adjustment points so I can make sure this thing is aligned right when the time comes.

In the mean time to boost my spirits and confidence, I started the cross member pass throughs, and started filling holes. I think Im going to remove the crooked cross member (I think it was for the carrier bearing), and add the new one I made. Actually, Im pretty sure its too tall, Ill have to make a shorter one, But I like it, and itll look good under there.


Everything is straight and level. This side went okay. I can still hear the other side laughing at me.

Bad picture, but it shows the anti-dive angle. I just have to make the other side match perfectly.

We accidentally cut this before and left it for later. Well, its later.

Back side of the pass through. It will get welded and smoothed.

Front side of the same one. Again, itll all be welded and smoothed.

 

I decided to put my head down today and either fix this, or make a decision. I think it turned out great. My welds are still lacking a bit, but they are burning in nice. They arent the straightest, and my speed still needs work, but this isnt going anywhere. I measured and remeasured and everything is within 1/16th on the tape measure, and the angles are all well within 2 tenths of a degree. The upper control arm mount angle (anti-dive, what started this whole problem) is within 5 hundredths.

I need to order the stuff for the a-arms. Im also going to have to buy either a bender, or a die for the bender at work. Ill use 1-1/4 tube, so the die is about $250. The bender is about $400, but Ill have it for later. Im not sure what to do. I have already picked out my tube ends, and the rod ends as well, just have to order it all.

I need to add some caster adjustment in the upper mounts. Im thinking of making them like the ones from SPC. I can get all the parts, I just need to make sure they will work. Then I need to make a decision about the cross member. And then about the trailer hitch.

These are the SPC uppers. I can buy all the parts and make them.

Passenger side.

Drivers side.

Everything is nice and level. Except the bumper apparently.

Side profile. They match pretty good I think.

 

Looks a lot better!

 

Still messing around to see what I like. I have made several changes, some will stay, some wont.

The upper shock mount hoop I really like. Ill tie this in to the top of the upper a-arm mount. It should work well. This will also allow me to make the inner fender wells go around this hoop. Then Ill make a small closeout for inside the hoop to block off the engine compartment.

I also moved the battery to the opposite side. I like the mount I made pretty good, but I felt it needed to be on the other side for a little weight distribution. Its not much but itll help even things out.

I removed the carrier bearing cross member, and welded in the boxing plates. Then I tacked in the cross member I made...and its not going to work. The short story is, my wife loves driving my Charger R/T. This started a discussion about the future engine we are going to put in the truck. I explained the cost of installing a 5.7 hemi, with a T56, and the benefits and we talked about it for awhile. She agreed it would be worth it, if we can afford to do it in the future. So, thats going to be the direction we are planning to go. So, the T56 will be quite a bit longer than the NP435. So, Im going to remove this cross member, and weld in some angle down the sides of the frame. Then I can bolt in a cross member. When the time comes, I can remove or relocate the driveshaft loop, and add a tail cone mount for the T56.

I started playing with the TIG welder today. Its just a cheap Lowes welder, but it does good. There is no pedal, so I have to get the amp setting just right before I start. I am getting better, but its a slow process for me. I made a few decent welds with it, but nothing to brag about. If I cant get it looking better, I may just tack together the A-arms, and pay a professional to weld them. Better safe than sorry on those.

I still need to finish the cross member pass throughs, but I wanted to get some other things going first. When I get all of this finalized, I flip the frame over and weld everything from the bottom too. Then we can paint the whole thing.

Shock mount hoop. The shock is fully extended here, so the bolt hole will be about 2-1/2" lower.

I like it, but it wont stay. Ill make another one that will be removable.

Practicing TIG. At least Im not dipping the tungsten every three seconds now.

Last pass of the day. I went from right to left, so it started out pretty good, then got ugly at the end.

 

It was a busy day of welding and grinding. I am trying to get all the grinding done before the weather gets really cold. So I filled some holes, and worked on the pass throughs.

As far as the pass throughs are concerned, Im going to leave them like they are. I am not worried about a few small pin holes here and there. I will cover all the frame gaps with seam sealer, or something like it, before paint. Its not a show truck, so welding and grinding everything until its perfect doesnt make sense. Plus I just dont have the skills yet. Itll be good enough for a nice driver.

The hole filling went well. Im not going to fill every little hole either. Im just not that worried about it. I will work on the front suspension more. I have to make it presentable before paint.

Then after Im happy with the top, Im going to flip it over and weld everything on the bottom. I think I can finish the top with another good solid 8 hour day, then it can be flipped over.

Big hole for the steering box, I think

Small plug from 3/16" plate

Weld it up....

Grind away.

This is the back side of the drivers side pass through. Its under the drivers feet.

Front side of the driver side rear pass through. This will be under the bed on the drivers side.

 

I have been busy cleaning the frame. Not a lot of pictures, but it is a lot of work. I have swept up probably 4 or 5 dust pans full of dust, rust, cut-off wheel debris, and all sorts of nasty stuff. Its a mess. I think I am finished now though. I got the frame flipped over, and finished some of the welds on the bottom because Im not good enough to weld overhead without screwing it up and burning myself. I have wire wheeled the whole frame, and actually scraped all the grease off of it. I finished the pass throughs, and the hitch mount. Ill post more pictures when its painted and ready for re-assembly. Im going to use some seam sealer and smooth out some things as I go. It should look pretty good.

Flipping the frame over was a bit sketchy. I got it though.

Flipped and ready to make a mess. Ill show more details when its painted.

 

Yeah, when I was doin' this kind of thing for a livin', I was famous for dropping molten slag into my shoes....... My boss considered nicknaming me "Dancer", but, the dirty look I gave him when he suggested it, convinced him that wasn't such a good idea.

 

I see car shows where all the guys wear long beards and short pants. I think to myself, they don't work on carburetors that backfire or use cutting torches. I've worn big boy pants for years and wear tall boots when cutting. No matter how fast you get your shoes off when you drop slag down it, it's NOT fast enough.

 

You ain't just a whistlin' dixie there.

 

Ive been gathering parts and supplies for a few weeks, getting ready for a few long weekends around Christmas and the new year.

Got the bottom of the frame done and flipped it back over. I started seam sealing the frame in some areas, Im hoping itll come out okay. I also got the gas tank- its a 22 gallon tank for a 70 mustang. I took a chance, hoping it would fit. I didnt feel right putting in a 15 or 16 gallon. They seemed small. I searched and measured, and just took a chance. I know the topic has been covered, and I did multiple searches, here, other forums and on google. I also knew to look at the mustangs, but I couldnt find a specific year, or size. Either way, it fits. The picture shows it on top of the rails, but it will be mounted to the bottom. I dont want to pull the bed to remove the tank. I also got the tow hitch/jack point welded up. I know its overkill, but I would rather overkill it than under do it and hurt someone. Ill also post a picture of the new bar ends that will go on the a-arms. I went ahead and got the bigger ones, so these are larger than what the suspension had originally. And these are forged.

Ill finish the seam sealing soon, and start painting, after I get the tank mounts fully installed. Then I have to make the a-arms. Ill do a detailed list when that happens.

Ill show more details of the pass throughs when Im finished with them. And in case anyone is wondering, Im raising the bed floor about 4-5 inches, so Ill put a gas filler in the back. Ill have to lower the tailgate to fill up, but I dont like the hole in the floor. It should work out good, and be in the middle, so I can fill up from either side.

22 gallon tank from a 70 mustang. I didnt like the idea of a 15 or 16 gallon tank. I dont know what the gas mileage is on a carbureted 318, but Im sure it sucks.

Bigger beefier forged bar ends for the a-arms. Ill start on these hopefully early next year.

Jack point.tow hitch mount. Ill seam seal this also. I can bolt on the hitch if I need it.

One of the pass throughs. Itll look better when Im done.