Got a little work done. I finished painting the front end of the frame. I started the brake lines. I also installed the suspension hopefully for the last time. It has the setup sticks in it still, but its on its own weight. The bolt centers are at 12-1/2" apart. I might have to get the shocks that are about 13-1/2". They will be adjustable, so I can lower it if necessary. I also set the engine in so I can set my pinion angle. I also need it in to get a few details figured out. I still need exhaust ran, the fuel and clutch line, the radiator and heater and associated hoses and stuff. Tons to figure out.

I still have a few problems to fix. The tie rod ends are installed, and I have about 1/2" or about 10 threads left inside the bar. And the tires are still toed in a bit. Im not sure I feel safe running it out much more. I have a plan to fix this, and its a hassle, but not a huge problem.

The other main problem is the adjustable ends on the upper A-arms. They have about 3/4" of thread in the arm, so I could go out a little more. And of course, the tires are visually cambered. This is a tougher fix. Not impossible, but much harder. The goal for now is to make the truck move under its own power this year. Itll still need shocks and tires, and a ton of other things, but I think I can do this this year.

Try not to nitpick...Its in progress. I know I need some grommets, and clamps on the brake lines. Some cotter pins in some of the suspension parts. And I need to lock tight all the bolts. Ill get it all.

Engine in. Hopefully for good. Now I can work on the exhaust, fuel lines, heater hoses, brake lines, oil filter, etc...

Plenty of clearance where its needed.

You can see some of the brake lines here. Ill finish the steering also.

More of the brake lines and you can see the line lock too.

Lots of clearance....Not really though. Its about 6 inches at the cross member. My charger is about 4-1/2". So I am used to low cars.

 

Progress is good.

It looks really good though. Should drive pretty nice too.

 

Slowly getting there. I got it out today and washed it for the first time in about 2 years. Im slowly getting the brakes figured out. Its a nightmare. With the IFS, and the brake booster, and a new combination valve, and all the little parts, and various adapters and fittings....Im ready to get these things done. Im also working out details on the fuel lines, the clutch, the oil lines (Im running a remote filter) the rear 4-link, and about a hundred other areas on the truck. Ive made probably 20 trip to either the parts store or the hardware store in the last 2 weeks. And its $20 here, $50 there. But its slowly coming together. I have more photos, but either my drive or my phone isnt cooperating today, so I might post them tomorrow after church.

 

Wow, that's gonna be a SHORT! bed.

 

It does look a little bobbed doesnt it.



Another outside picture

Back inside and on the stands.

Here you can see the spacers. Also the upper rear shock mounts are temporarily tacked in. Ill finish all this soon.


Here are the other pictures. Earlier than I expected, but thats ok. I wanted to post about an issue...

If you pay attention you will notice Im running wheel spacers. That was a last minute fix to get those ugly ford ranger wheels off the truck. I bought wheels for my car, and donated these to Isaac, so they are factory 20" Dodge Charger RT (with the road and track package) wheels. I think they are about 7" wide. The spindle hits the wheel in the front, which is going to be an issue on most new wheels. Also the offset is way wrong front and back. With a 1-1/2" spacer up front the wheels are still tucked in the fender pretty good. Im also running a 2" spacer in the back to make the rear track wider than the front. I hate the spacers. They look dumb, and Im not convinced they arent a safety issue. I know some 4X4 guys use them for mud races and rock crawling, but they use them as a failure point, because they are cheaper than axles. Its just something else Ill have to address eventually. I also want to point out the wheel studs are too short. This is a rather big issue. I can get longer studs, and make the spacers work, but they are also short on the rear axles. And when I get different wheels later any long stud I put on now, will be too long then. Also the wheels we would really want are the Dodge Hellcat wheels, which have a similar offset, just in a wider tire. I need the mounting surface of the wheels to be more toward the center of the truck. And custom wheels are outside the budget for sure. At $900-1500 a wheel I dont see that ever happening.

Anyway, just another issue that Ill have to address eventually. Its a never ending saga of problems followed by several ways to fix them. I just have to find the one that fits the best.

 

I got a little done. I lost a week because I was helping a friend. Plus we payed off a bill, so Im done buying parts this month. But with the bill paid, we save about $135 a month, so Im good with that. I should be back to ordering and parts running by July.

Tomorrow Im going to start welding practice. Up till now my son-in-law has done all the welding. I have tacked a few things, and done a little welding, but Im going to get serious now. Im not trying to run him off, but he has his own life, and I hate waiting or depending on other people. The goal is to get good enough that when I start the Ford, I can weld it myself. Im going to start with some thin stuff (16ga) that I made a battery tray out of. Then Ill weld the tray. I eventually want to weld up the radio hole someone put in the dash, with what appears to have been a screwdriver or an axe.

Brake and clutch lines. I like them straight and clean. The wires will be run along the fender. I might try and run them under.

The clutch line. It will get a flex line between the hard line and the slave cylinder

Fuel log. Its a -8 from the floor bulkhead to the log, then a -6. I dont need two -6 outlets, but who knows.

Driver side brake lines with the combo valve. I like it

 

You want to start on thicker metal first not thin sheet metal. Sheet metal is a bit different as you are on and off the trigger. If you build up to much heat you blow threw the metal. Also depends on the welder and how it's set up. Mine has thin wire (.025) in it as to not heat up the material as much as thicker wire. It's set up for sheet metal.

 

I have practiced on some thicker stuff. I want to do the thinner, because I have a dash to repair. So far Im doing pretty good. I welded the front of the tray, and its 16ga. Not much thicker than the dash.

So I worked in the garage today. I got the clutch in. I cant finish, because I need a throw out bearing. I did a little welding also. Stephen had started welding a battery try for me. I laid it out, cut it and bent it up. He tig welded it at first. When I put it where I wanted it, it hit the tire. So I shortened it up, and welded it myself in the garage this morning. I think it turned out good. Ill have to drill a few more holes for mounting, and paint it before calling it done. I also made a support from the old battery support. I might modify the other as well. It will need some type of support on the inside also. Just a few little things, but its progress.

The location is different than the factory. I never liked the factory position.

Plenty of clearance. I should be able to hide it with the fender wells.

The rods. Short is modified, long is factory.

Final location. I have to add some bolts, a support and paint, but this is where its going.

 

So Ive been playing around with inner fender skirts. I started by relieving the originals to see what I had left, and it wasnt much. It hits the A-arm and upper shock tower, and the battery after relocation and because this suspension narrows the track width by quite a bit, it hits the tire at full lock where the factory solid axle had a shock tower that came through into the engine bay. So, I decided to look into making some on my own. I bought a sheet of 16ga steel, and some foam board and played around today a little. I like the shape, and it gives me plenty of room. Now I just have to figure out how to transfer these shapes to steel, and make it work.

There is a sharpie line on the foam board. This is an angle change, and it will be a seam when I make it. Im not sure if Ill weld it, or make a flange and bolt it. It will probably be bolted, because the skirt would be difficult to get in if its a single piece. Ill look into it.






Also the inner flange where the top of the new skirt meets with the fender will be turned down and through bolted. I think it looks cleaner that way.

I can also make a battery cover and tie down, and I should have metal to make some other items-maybe even do some floor repairs. This will be tedious though. Ill have to take the sheet metal to work and cut it to shape roughly, then drag it home and finish it. This might take a few weeks. Plus I havent checked the other side yet. Only the drivers side.

 

I got the first part (of 4 parts) done on the inner fenders. Ill work on the second part this week, maybe monday of tuesday. The inner fenders have to be split into two parts to get them in. Ill do something around the a-arms later. Maybe some rubber, or even a mini wheel tub of sorts. Im not sure.

Im happy with this part. After I get the driver side done, Ill remove the fender, and install the passenger side....and do this all over again on that side. Fun fun fun.


Showing the inside. I got good penetration on the welds. It should hold up well.

After cleanup. Ill still have some work to do, but it looks good to me.

Installed. Its only clamped on the inside edge. Ill add some tabs on the bottom too. Fits nice.