I did aquire a new lift pump today.

by the time I was able to start workin on the truck, it was 1630 hrs and too frickin chilly for me. I had maybe an hour and a half of light, and my driveway was already in the shade.

I spray cleaned the current pump and surrounding area to remove the oil and gunk..


I will take pics tomorow and let ya know if that solves it.

did mess with the ve pump. didnt turn any screws sine mwfi wont warranty it then. butdid find that spring controlled cutoff ,and a wire to a solenoid below thepump on a small unit attached to the pump, butoffset per se` from it. tried to make theconnect a bit better. will cut female end off wire tomorow and replace with new.


Thank for the help guys!!!

 

I wish I knew what to recomend. sounds as if everything is already up here.

 

update


changed the lift pump.

changed the positive battery cable

engine has doen the same thing this evening.

now it will not shift to OD.

I did call my oldest brother who owns hisown service shop. he dialed up the troubl shooting / diagnostics infor int hat special cataloge those guys have access to.

anyway, after taking to him and paying attention to my truck, it looks like I need a new coolant temperature sensor. if that does not read 65* then the OD will not engage. mine wont engage till the needle pins at 1/3 on the guage and drops back when the t stat opens. then it shifts.

as far as the thing dying, I am thinkin electrical connection, pcm, fi pump, or an unforgiving gremlin...


thanks for the help guys.

 

There's some confusion afoot!

The temperature sensor associated with the overdrive is NOT related to the engine coolant temperature sensor.

The temperature sensor for the OD is located at the transmission, just forward of the shifter linkage/lever (Brass device) ~



You can see where the wiring is routed in the following image (See Thermal Switch) ~



It's mounted in the transmission fluid plumbing as the hot fluid leaves the trans on its way to the heater/cooler. It's job is to disallow OD till the transmission fluid comes up to 65*F or so minimum. I doubt there's a problem with it.

Seeing as you've been working around the IP and it's associated wiring, there's a good chance the Throttle Position Sensor may be suspect. It is what the PCM references to turn on/off the OD based on throttle position after all else is satisfied. It's located on top of the IP, toward the radiator, it's connected to the IP throttle shaft. Make sure its plugged in good and secure.

It wouldn't hurt to check it's setting. Go here to see how. ~ http://piersdiesel.com/Tech1GTPS.htm

 

I will admit that my bro did drop everything to help me. so between talkin on the phone, him bringing up the mechanics troubleshooting software, I can see some confusion in transaltion ....

thanks BC847 !


months back I wondered if my tps was faulty.

I am still at a loss as to why this thing randomly powers down.


now the truck does not choke per s`.

this last time we had just got a green light, I applied sufficient pressure tothe accelerator for the traffic conditions, and it just cut right out..idiot dash lights out..no engine..no nothing but forward controll with steering..then it was back as fast as it was gone.

seems to happen more when I hit a bump/ rough area, orwhileturning. it may all just be a coincidence. I do NOT know.

 

Wow, this thing is a hair puller! on the first gen dodges there was some problems with the electrical connection between the outer harness and inner harness where all the wiring goes through the firewall on the drivers side next to booster, take an 8mm nut driver and loosen the screw in the center of the plug and pull it apart, look at all the pins and sockets carfully! look for discolored terminals, or anything that looks out of place, spray it all down with brake cleaner, let dry and apply dielectric grease to the socket side (cab side) assemble and check all other underhood plugs, if you have been washing and cleaning that engine compartment the chance is high there could be water corroding some connections. not sure if this is your problem, however all electrical functions for your truck go through that connector. I have seen this before on the first gens up here. but contamination due to snow and road salt. another thing you should do is get a jumper wire with some alligator clips on both ends and run from the positve terminal of the batt to the ip shut off servo. this will verify if your problem is electrical with your pump, eliminating all variables except for the servo itself. Be sure to disconnect the origional wire first. Yup you will have to open your hood to shut it off but it is only for test purposes.

 

6inarow

we dont really see snow here. okonce in a while, but we do get down to 10* or so in the winter.


this truck has been hacked electrically way too much by whom ever had it previously.

I will check electrical connections under the dash, and hood for loose or corroded areas.



BC847

do you happen to have the trans cable adjustment proceedure for the trans cable that connects to the fi pump linkage?

 

I feel your pain, I also have an electrical gremlin somewhere, except mine just keeps the truck in limp mode=no boost fueling and retarded timing. I hope you can find your problem, is the lift pump on yours mechanical or electrical?

 

Rooster


my lift pump is mechanical..

 

Here ya go ~ http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Kickdown_Adjustment/