I'll give the cluster test a try and see what happens. I know there are codes stored for alternator output (p1594), as well as the fuel circuit. I've checked voltage at the battery and have gotten all kinds of weird results. Sometimes high, sometimes low. Mostly low, and when the gauge starts to say it's overcharging, the actual voltage seems to go down. I've pulled both the battery and alternator, and had them tested. Both passed. I've seen on Identafix that the PCM is a confirmed repair for this about half the time, as the voltage regulator is in the PCM.

So,... not seeing an ad for any PCM companies currenty. Any idea what their name is?

 

Hmmm. Not seeing them in the list..... I think it was ECM Exchange? Or something similar. I think they had an ebay store as well. (be sure to check their feedback.....)

 

I'm a little nervous about using some of the companies I see online. I just messaged back and forth with AutoComputerExchange.com and the woman didn't know that the cruise was controlled by the PCM, and said that they could only program it to factory vin# settings. Add to that, they have far more bad reviews online than good ones. The part on Summit Racing is either $675 for a Mopar unit, or $182 for an A1 Cardone, and I'm pretty sure I would have to take it to a dealer to have it flashed. Whether or not it can be programmed with cruise there is another question altogether. So,...buy online for $250 and fear that it won't work, or buy online for $182-675, go to dealership, and still not have it work right. Decisions, decisions.

 

Does the pin feeding the cruise switches actually get power from the PCM? (they are supposed to, but, are they??)

I really don't know why the programming would be different...... so far as I know, there aren't any special tricks to it. None of the customer tuners ever ask about it, their canned tunes are pretty generic, and I haven't heard of anyone having their cruise STOP working after uploading a tune....... Seems to me, it would make more sense that the computer already knows what to do with the inputs..... and if it doesn't get them, it simply doesn't do anything at all.

If you have a good scanner, you should be able to see if the PCM is getting inputs from the switches....... If you don't, verify five volts going TO the switches.

 

All wires lead to either the PCM or ground. So there is really nothing in between. I have checked the switches with a probe light, and there is no power as far as I can tell, but I haven't actually checked with any sort of volt meter.

 

It's only going to be 5 volts or so, depending on your test light, that may simply be not enough voltage to run the bulb.....

 

Ok. So, I got into it with a multi-meter and found that there is indeed about 5v going to the switches. I pulled the on/off switch and checked for continuity. Since I'm not sure what I'm doing, that doesn't say much. But,...with the multimeter connected it shows essentially nothing when the rocker switch is in nuetral. When pressing it towards the on/off direction I get about 0.92. When I switch it to the Set position I get 6.7. Not sure what any of that means, but I'm willing to try a new switch. I just have to find one first.

As for the other issues, I have no idea what to say about them yet.

 

I think the switch is actually working.. What year are your switches, and what year is your PCM for?

 

I believe the switches were out of a 98. I just got back from pick -n- pull with a couple switches that were the same part#'s but with an AB after, so they are newer. Out of a 99. Still no luck. When I tested for voltage, I tested with the key on, engine off. Don't know if that matters. Might see if it's still sending voltage with the engine running.

 

Yeah, engine running or not shouldn't matter.

I think the steering wheels/switches were the same from 98 and up..... would have to check the service manual for the various years to be sure. If your meter has an ohms scale, you can test your switches that way, and make sure they are correct.