I have had this idea in my head for a long time. So i finally said F'it and went junkyard hunting all morning. A whole lot of 00- trucks in the yard, but finally found an 01+ that had the combination flasher.

So I brought it to the shop, cracked it open, and did some studying.

$5 and some wire later, I have a combination flahser that happily accepts LED's.

Right now I have the 4 switchbacks up front and incandescents in the back. I'm going to get some red LED tails and stab them in, but my math says I should still be good.

I'm going to modify the CF out of my truck and put it in a friend's truck to verify that everything is kosher, then I may start offering these out to the public.

It basically takes a $5 resistor, a couple inches of wire, and about 15 minutes.

 

Video of the switchbacks (pieced together)

 

So i put the LED tails in tonight.

With the 4 front LED's in and nothing in the rear sockets, the unit did NOT go into Hyperflash for either left or right turn. So I have plenty of overhead here. I'm showing 106 milliVolts with the Threshold at 87, which means there is just over 1 amp flowing through the circuit.

With the hazards flashing for over 5 minutes, the resistor never so much as got lukewarm.

I also knocked out a second one today, the original from my truck. It will be going to a friend down in College Station.

 

Yes, I know the wiring under my dash is hideous. You don't have to point it out.

Yes, I know that the hyperflash cancels with hazards on. Yes, I know it's not a great video. But everything does work - even with the rear tails unplugged, it does not Hyperflash for either side. The resistor doesn't get so much as lukewarm, even after 5 minutes of hazards.

I did mis-speak. The voltage is at 0.106 volts, above the threshold of 0.087 volts.

I'll make a better video in the near future.

 

Good work, Magnet. My LED tails came with flasher boxes, but they stopped working shortly after I got them. Replacements lasted about two days, so I've been hyperflashing for years now. Maybe this will cure it. Seems much better to control it at the source, than to put a bunch of resistors on each light.

Do you know if the Durango combo flasher is the same as the Dak?

 

I have a shipment of flasher cores coming in late this week. I'm talking to Richard at HiPoTek about adding these to his store, but until that happens, I'll be transacting direct.

Yes, CF is same for 01-04 Dak, 93-97 B250, and I think 01-04 Ram Van or something like that

 

Looks like quite a few folks have been doing this. May not need a high power resistor. One guy even used a longer length of wire to replace the shunt. Heck, if you remove that resistor and twisted the end of your wires together that might work by itself

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...-coffee.37691/

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...flash-fix.html

 

it'd definitely nothing new in the way of rocket science.

And yes, it's entirely possible that a piece of wire could do it. But the module is extremely cramped inside, i'd hate to have a piece of wire pinch the relay contacts.

 

So tonight I tried this with a junkyard combo relay and it worked great. I glued the resistor to the bottom of the casing. When the glue dried, I plugged it up and when I went to mount it on that little metal tab under the dash, I stupidly forgot to tape the exposed wires and it shorted & sparked for a quick sec. Now the flashers don't work at all. Plugged back in the original unmolested flasher relay and still nothing. Checked turn signal fuse and it's not blown. Flasher and hazards I get nothing. Brake lights and everything else works. So basically, I shorted out that shunt resistor to ground.


I'm gonna have to figure this out in the morning. Hopefully this is not an expensive mistake.

 

Fuse 19 - 10 amp (Dash JB) and Fuse 1 - 30 amp (PDC) supply the flasher.