You wouldn't even have to as far as welding the roll pan in. All you would need to do is bend part of the metal on the roll pan and you will be able to screw it in on the bed corners as well as create a metal tab in the middle of the floor pan so you will be able to screw it in the middle, that is how mine is. Works great, doesn't wiggle or move and you will be able to remove it in the future without much hassle. Also when using that rust remover on your frame, did you lay it on and scrapped it afterwards or just left it how it is?

 

I don't like the sound of screwing things into my body, I have access to a welder. Yes I sprayed on and left it as is, did not even scrape the metal before I sprayed.

 

TurbocastII - Take II

I bought another set this time better condition, unpainted, all four are 15x7 and they are the correct lug pattern. Got it all for $350 shipped!



Original stamped 1979 on the inside:



Even the stickers are still on it they are in great condition for 1979:



I'm almost 100% they are American Racing:



Came with all the lugs and washers needed:



Another project I want to work on is my headrests, they are too much and block the rear window my cab is just too small and I never use them although I hate to remove them since they are electric haha I really like the Mustang meshed/netted headrests:



They are plastic though, I would rather some matching leather headrests. I'm thinking about removing mine and modifying them with nets much larger then these if not completely remove them:

 

I worked on cleaning up the engine bay some more, removed the air intake snorkel, heated air valve, and washer fluid reservoir that I have never once used:



Granted the computer will no longer get cool air being drawn in through the intake I do not live close to the equator so operating temperatures are rarely above 85F this screen will keep the dust out for now:



Same screen on the intake port for now until I get an open air cleaner, I swear I can feel some acceleration improvement without the snorkel!



The extra room without the washer reservoir will allow me to relocate the stereo fuse holder from the fender to where the reservoir was on the fender, I cut the tube at the firewall until I remove the cowl which I plan on shaving clean:



The plug under the hood for my blower motor resistor is all melted and only two speeds work so I hacked this out of a 95' all I have to do is spice the positive and negative into this harness along with the dimmer control and one other wire I forget what it was for:



I never use my headrest and either do my passengers until I learned that their actual purpose is not to rest your head but to prevent whiplash and a broken neck during front and rear collisions with an airbag...well I don't have airbags and they eat up room in my tiny cab. I am going to tint the rear window but I think I want them removed so I removed the drivers to see what it would look like if I plan on racing or going to a car show I will stick them back in:

 

Just a heads-up (haha, heads!)... The headrest isn't JUST for an airbag hit, but for any hit that sends your head backwards.

 

+1 to that...speaking from experience.

if you live in an area that sees a regular amount of snow over the winter months you'll want that washer reservoir. i took mine out and believe me...driving down the highway with a salted windshield is bad. lol

 

I will modify them then with hollow centers and nets.

I rarely take my truck on the highway, and the fluid pump has been bunt for 2 years now I never even wanted to use it god for bid it worked. This will be a summer only truck I hope in the next 2 years, not only do I rarely travel on the highway with it but I deff don't even bother in the winter I carpool.

Only thing is if I shave the cowl I will need to keep a spare to pass inspection.

 

I scored this brand new set of fenders on Craigslist for $80!!




They are 100% rust free but they are dented...that is the catch still can't beat $40 a piece:



Here are the easy fixes...flare edge and top:




This one may be a bit more complicated being on a body line:



These are the worst, the top corner on both fenders is bent over where it blends into the A-pillars:




All in all I think I did alright for the money, after these dents are fixed I need to weld in panels to shave the corner lights and antenna.

 

I was running Synthetic 10-30 with minor drips so instead of going with a lower grade oil I stuck with the same Castrol Edge but went with 10-40 instead, and a new filter (ACDelco since they did not have a Mopar filter)



I also did the plugs, I was running Bosch platinum plus plugs and swapped them out for NGK V-Power's. Some cylinders have side burn some have none...



My poor truck has no anti-sway bars front or back it drives like a Cadillac boat so I picked one up from a junkyard off a 1990 with a tow package, the bushings and mounts are toast and the links were cut to remove the bar:



I bought new mounts and bushings from Prothane that are greasable!



Energy Suspension end links with poly bushings:



Finally added the 1/0 grounds going to the fender and engine block along with flipping the battery backwards, now I need to do the 1/0 frame ground and some 1/0 going to the starter:



The smoked headlights were nice the last 2 years but its just too much black to keep a clean appearance with my two tone. These are the most expensive 4x6 enclosures I can find; $25ea anymore more expensive is because they include bulbs or ballasts, etc. It still has the same quality glass which really is not that outstanding, at least they are not fake projectors...I paid $25 for the SET of black enclosures. Good thing about these though, they have CENTERED accessory lights which is the only set I have ever seen all the rest have them to one side (both sides) and there are none available without the accessory lights. I just pulled them on both the black and clear lights then covered the hole with clear tape...may use them in the future.



These did however come with an adapter similar to the ones I made only one gauge thicker with wider prongs (copper not silver like mine)



I made a choice, hex mesh from a Ram grill! It comes in two separate pieces left and right:



It has a bit of a curve to it but can be easily pulled flush against the grill frame:



The top is untouched, the bottom is trimmed out on the top and right side to fit a GenI grill:



Partially mocked up more pictures to come of the finished grill!

 

Grill completed!