Brakes
#72
#73
It was mentioned before but I want to double check (parts stores are a bit of a ride for me). If I'm changing all my brake hoses I'm guessing I'm going to drain most of the brake fluid out of the system. It's gonna be Air City and I suspect I'll be doing a considerable amount of brake bleeding at the end (pneumatic bleeder to the rescue). Based on previous suggestions, I'm planning on getting 2 quarts of DOT 3 plus 2 or 3 smaller bottles as insurance and/or to stock for future use due to water contamination of opened bottles. Are y'all confident this is sufficient quantity?
One other question I'm curious about. These fluids that say they're DOT 3/4...what is that all about? Used to be DOT 3 was DOT 3 and DOT 4 was DOT 4 and never should they cross paths. So what makes a fluid friendly to both 3 and 4 these days?
One other question I'm curious about. These fluids that say they're DOT 3/4...what is that all about? Used to be DOT 3 was DOT 3 and DOT 4 was DOT 4 and never should they cross paths. So what makes a fluid friendly to both 3 and 4 these days?
The following users liked this post:
tndakman (10-10-2021)
#74
2 quarts should be more than adequate to the task. Having extra as insurance is never a bad plan.
Don't quote me on this, but, I think the 3/4 standards are entirely separate from the chemistry of the fluid. At one time, the two were completely incompatible, and mixing them would cause them to gel, and your brakes would eventually stop working. (or, at the very least, be seriously compromised....) Apparently, the chemistry has changed (yet again....) so that is no longer the case.... Still, I would be REAL careful about what fluids I mixed in the master cylinder.
Don't quote me on this, but, I think the 3/4 standards are entirely separate from the chemistry of the fluid. At one time, the two were completely incompatible, and mixing them would cause them to gel, and your brakes would eventually stop working. (or, at the very least, be seriously compromised....) Apparently, the chemistry has changed (yet again....) so that is no longer the case.... Still, I would be REAL careful about what fluids I mixed in the master cylinder.
The following users liked this post:
tndakman (10-10-2021)
#75
2 quarts should be more than adequate to the task. Having extra as insurance is never a bad plan.
Don't quote me on this, but, I think the 3/4 standards are entirely separate from the chemistry of the fluid. At one time, the two were completely incompatible, and mixing them would cause them to gel, and your brakes would eventually stop working. (or, at the very least, be seriously compromised....) Apparently, the chemistry has changed (yet again....) so that is no longer the case.... Still, I would be REAL careful about what fluids I mixed in the master cylinder.
Don't quote me on this, but, I think the 3/4 standards are entirely separate from the chemistry of the fluid. At one time, the two were completely incompatible, and mixing them would cause them to gel, and your brakes would eventually stop working. (or, at the very least, be seriously compromised....) Apparently, the chemistry has changed (yet again....) so that is no longer the case.... Still, I would be REAL careful about what fluids I mixed in the master cylinder.
The following users liked this post:
tndakman (10-10-2021)
#78
All the parts and tools have been delivered.
Very first task I did was to remove the brake line from the brake hose (front, left). Of course, the line snapped off. Didn't matter that I soaked that fitting every other day with PB Blaster for a week. So now I get to replace/repair brake lines. May as well do that after all four wheels are done so I can see exactly what I need. Anyone know what size brake line that is off the top of their head so I don't have to dig it up?
Oh, and the races were already pressed into the Bendix rotor so I don't need the driver tool. It's gets returned. $22 bucks is $22 bucks.
Very first task I did was to remove the brake line from the brake hose (front, left). Of course, the line snapped off. Didn't matter that I soaked that fitting every other day with PB Blaster for a week. So now I get to replace/repair brake lines. May as well do that after all four wheels are done so I can see exactly what I need. Anyone know what size brake line that is off the top of their head so I don't have to dig it up?
Oh, and the races were already pressed into the Bendix rotor so I don't need the driver tool. It's gets returned. $22 bucks is $22 bucks.
#80
Originally Posted by HeyYou;[url=tel:3527244
3527244[/url]]I generally just take the flare nut into the parts store, and match it up to the generic line they have hangin' about. Get what seems to be the right length, and trim to match, if necessary. (I have a good flaring tool.... parts store will rent you one, if you don't own one.)