I didn’t realize holding those isolaters in place was such a PITA. I figgered you just lay them on top of the coil and shove the whole thing back up there. I’ll remember the masking tape trick. No point in repeating your aggravation.

 

The main problem is, as you're twisting the spring to get it in, the isolator kept falling off.

OTOH, it's still a current part number according to Dodge Dakota Spring isolator. 2WD. SUSPENSION, FRONT, FCA, COMPONENTS - 4322401 | Wholesale Mopar Parts, Austin TX ...

RwP

 

I don't know Ralph. You're not completely right. I maintain you're part blood hound the way you sniff out these parts.

I ordered 2 of them. It's a no brainer.

 

I just looked it up on RockAuto, saw the Delphis were Out Of Stock, and Googled for the manufacturer's part number from their cross.

Could also look it up in the parts lists from here.

RwP

 

Two questions tonight, Ralph.

1) Got my ES bushings (uppers and lowers both sides). The rear bushing on the lower arm comes with a shell. Loose in the bag. All the rest there are no shells and, of course, I'll use the existing shells in the arms for those. Is there any reason you can see why I wouldn't reuse the rear lower arm bushing shell? Why would they give me shells for just the rear lowers but none of the others? Are they trying to tell me something? Obviously, I prefer using the old shells. A hell of a lot less work pressing them out and in. Curious!

2) Are those lower control arm bolts that run thru the bushing standard stuff? Is it something I can pick up at Home Depot? Not sure what grade those bolts are.and I didn't look. I had to really wack the hell out of that rear one today.

I could throw a few strawberries on top of those coil isolators and serve them up at the IHOP. Glad I ordered new ones. I coulda used your 365 pounds today.

 

I don't remember offhand. I'd see if it fits.

If not, one thing to remember is that you can use the ball joint tool to press them in; to get it out, an air chisel to bend the old bushing shell and it'll pop right out.

Grade 8 bolts; but yes, I think Home Depot / Lowe's will have them. If not, I bet Fastenal will have a 100 pack or a 5 pack

RwP

 

Lol I’ll use a couple bolts and put the rest in my will.

One plus about going back in and tearing all my work out is I get to use 6 more cotter pins from my 250 piece assortment kit. I reduced it from 244 pieces to 238 pieces.

I didn’t borrow a press kit this time and an air chisel is one tool I don’t have. So if I can make due with the old shell I’ll go that route. But I really should have an air chisel. Had one years ago but got lost, stolen, lent out, sumpin’. I never replaced it for some reason.

And once again, Sir, and as always, thank you for your help! It has been very useful.

 

R, sorry another question. When I get to the point of torquing those LCA bushing bolts, should the truck first be back on the ground to get the bushings in their “home” position? Probably wont be the easiest place to access with my body and torque wrench. Instead, can I just lift up on the LCA with the jack while the truck is still on jackstands and get the bushings to “home” that way?

 

The truck needs to be at normal ride height when you tighten those bolts. All the way around. Otherwise, you get odd results.

 

For rubber, they MUST be at normal ride height.

For POLY, not so critical, but I did the final tightening with it driven up on ramps so I could clear. YMMV though.

RwP