The hardware on your cab mounts. I’m assuming you have the original hardware still?? I just measured that bottom washer or cup or whatever it is. I figger if it’s the same diameter as mine then this kit should work.

 

I don't have my old hardware off yet; I still need to pick up the new stuff and get it powdercoated (new to me, anyway!)

RwP

 

I was thinking of measuring the ones on your truck. Don’t worry about it Ralph. My lower ES mount is 2.85” and that bottom washer/cup is 3”. That has got to be the correct mount for my truck.

I ordered another mount kit to get those other two mount sets I’ll need. Amazon costs me $76 and free shipping. I get them next week. If I buy the individuals from ES it will cost $45 + $10 shipping and take 12 weeks. Worth wasting $21 to not wait that long. I’ll put the extras on my neighbor’s lawn tractor.

I thought you mentioned once that you had your body mount kit already. Amazon wants $76. ES wants $89 I believe. I think RockAuto was close to that too.

 

I do have the body mount kit.

What I'm going to pick up are the washers and sleeves out of another Dak in the boneyard.

RwP

 

And while we're posting neat videos...

Ralph, I know you like to refurbish your control arms (and other parts). I wish I still had access to a media blaster and powder coat line. But, I love watching this old timer bring these old arms back to,pristine condition. Very nice work!

 

Well, I put my face back into the Energy Suspension body mount project. I'm thinking later next week I'll give it a shot. Should have the wife's Jeep completely done by early next week (it's all about discovering new stuff and then waiting for parts). So I'm just gonna soak the cage nuts every other day for the next week. I can direct access the cage nuts on the core support but the rest of them is a crap shoot. No real good place to squirt the stuff in so I just do the best I can and flood the zone and hope some of it gets on those cage nuts. It is what it is.

I'm also trying to see what obstructions I might have in lifting the cab. The fan shroud for sure as we have discussed. Also looks like there might be a bolt to remove at the very front of the fender but I'll look again. I have the time.

It appears there is enough play in all the wires, cables, and such that lifting a few inches shouldn't be a problem. One thing I'm not certain of is any protrusions in the firewall like brake booster or heater core nipples. My brain says all that should move up with the cab but that's from an unreliable source.

Any thoughts from what I have seen so far?

 

Intermediate shaft on the steering column, maybe. If you can release it from the rack, that'll do the job.

Brake lines down; but you've done new ones. (I cheated, I have a coil in mine to keep it from kinking if I lift enough to swap bushings.)

MIGHT have to drop the bulkhead fitting; I'd lift it while keeping a weather eye on the bulkhead on the driver's side.

Ground straps if you have them (I have two from the middle of the cab to either side of the bed; I'll be dropping the cab bolt where both bolt in.)

Booster and heater core are all fixed to the firewall, and will lift with the cab.

Oh; heater hoses if there' too snug. They should NOT be that taut; but if they are, you may have to disconnect them.

There's enough play in the AC hoses, so those should be good.

That's as I figure it.

I'm still waiting on the new rack for my Dakota; I'll probably do it while the rack is off.

RwP

 

I think the only thing under the hood that won't move with the rest of it, will be the engine and trans. If your truck is a 4x4, might wanna look at the t-case shifter linkage. If it's a manual trans, need to pay attention to the shifter. If it's 2wd, and an auto, then neither of those will be a concern.

 

Lotsa good points, Ralph. I will look at all those individually. Thanks! I think generally speaking, HY is probably right. I have a 2wd and I'm thinking by and large that body and core support are pretty much free of nearly all constraints (considering I'm lifting only a few inches). I didn't think of the steering column ---> pinion. Glad you raised that consideration, Ralph. I've been wanting to change the R&P bushings anyway. Might be the right time to do both jobs at the same time. I know I have slack in the heater hoses. They should be OK.

The brake booster still concerns me. It threads through the firewall. The master is connected to the booster. The proportioning valve and RWAL is attached too with brake lines that spider out all over the place. That means I will be lifting brake lines. Not certain if there is enough play in those brake lines. Some have coils or large radius bends in them but I'm not sure about all of them. I will have to look again. I know I replaced one brake line from the front-left brake hose to the front distribution block (I don't know what they're called, sorry) that has no play in it and I think that line cuts across the fender (or close to it). I'll have to really look at that one.

Here's a pic...

 

All you need to worry about are the lines going down; the ones from the master cylinder to the ABS control and the proportioning valve? Are all fixed relative to the firewall; they lift when you lift the cab.

Unless you really crank it up, I don't think you'll have a problem with them; but again, I'd pump a bit up, check, pump a bit up, check. Lather rinse repeat until you're high enough.

Won't be anything on the passenger side as far as I know. The only exception will be the possible tightness on the EVAP lines; I don't know where your EVAP canister is. (Mine is on the core support; the hose I'm talking about is long enough).

There may also be a problem if your air side for the pollution solenoids is in the fender; I've moved mine to there, but there's enough rubber hose to let it move enough.

Can't think of much if anything else.

DO check with Eyeball Mk I ; just because I didn't think of it, doesn't mean there isn't something.

RwP