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I did the fit check on the passenger side header, since that is the tight side. I got the Remflex gaskets as well. When I went to install the new dipstick in the block, there was some clearance issues with the dipstick mounting bracket on the excess gasket. So some trimming was in order.
Once I got the dipstick mounting bracket to clear, everything bolted into place. Due to some misalignment, I had to slot the hole in the mounting bracket. Yes, it is fully seated in the block (I made sure before trimming anything).
The header bolts are only snugged up at this point, not fully torqued down. Then I noticed there is a fit issue with this dipstick tube. It is leaning on one of the header tubes. Once the header is torqued down, it will only move closer to the block, making the interference worse. It looks like I will need to make some slight bends in the dipstick tube.
Now there is a nice gap between the dipstick tube and the header. A good lesson - when mating things together that have never been together, always check the clearance, Clarence.
I am now at the point where the pinion angle needs to be verified, which was the main point of putting this drivetrain into the chassis this time. I have read that u-joints don't like much over 3 degrees at speed, otherwise they wear prematurely and can cause vibrations. With the tail cone of the 6L80E trans sitting on the urethane mount, the pinion angle was at 6.55 degrees. By spacing up the tail cone by 2.25", the pinion angle comes in at 3.05 degrees. Now to design the spacer and get some longer bolts to secure it properly. I'm going to call 3.05 degrees good enough.
Before making anything permanent..... plug the driveshaft (if you have one) into the end of the trans, and position it to where it will be when the rear end is actually in place. Check the angle on the driveshaft, THAT is the measurement you are more concerned with. Lifting the rear of the trans up, is going to put even MORE angle on the driveshaft, unless the rear end is WAY up into the frame?
Since this is a custom application, the driveshaft has not been made yet. The rear suspension needs to be finished to get the proper length measurement so I can have it fabricated. I have the frame leveled, and the engine mounts can't change. Raising the back of the transmission is the only way to get near 3 degrees. I have read that if the angle of the engine/trans matches (opposite) with the rear end, the u-joints will live a happy life.
I installed the driver's side header, thinking it should be problem free with much more room with the drivetrain offset. So much for thinking! There is a boss sticking out from the bell housing that is interfering with the collector. Time to break out my old friend, Mr. Saws-all. I don't think the bell housing would care if I gave it a trim.
The offending protrusion was no match for Mr. Saws-all. Obstruction eliminated. Well, this one anyways.
It turns out the stock spark plug caps don't fit very well. Two on the passenger side, and three on the driver side are either leaning on the header or not snapping onto the top of the spark plugs. Looks like some aftermarket plug wires are in my future to complete this header install.
My entire fuel delivery system showed up! Well, minus a fuel pressure regulator. I was recommended to check out Tanks.com in my search for a fuel tank. I couldn't use the Dakota tank as it's location interferes with the four link suspension. Somewhere along the line I heard Mustang tanks fit well between the frame rails. No idea which year, so with some measurements in hand I found this tank. It is a modified version of a '70 Mustang, the change being the depth increase for more capacity. I didn't want a 15 gallon tank as this truck will not be very miserly on fuel consumption and this tank is 22 gallons. The dimensions work, so here it is. I am putting the filler door in the bed, which will get a wood floor. Not everyone's cup of tea, but it works for me.
Painless Performance chassis wiring harness is on the way. 21 circuit with fuse box and relays. I am still one part away from starting the rear differential rebuild, but the weather may affect when it arrives.
Enjoy following your progress........ One thing you probably already know, but the 8.8 rears out of explorers have 3.25 tubes rather then the more common 3in. tubes.
