Read through all 7 pages, just one post on a noisy unit. Mine starting to make some loud grinding noise and I am wondering if I can just change the bearings or do I have to replace the entire compressor.

Can it be bypassed with a shorter belt?

Pulled the compressor today, the bearings sound like they are bad. the pulley has lots of slop in it. Bought a new compressor...
Had smoke coming from it today.. Could I have fixed this compressor? How difficult is it to recharge the unit. Will a kit give me everything I need.

 

SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
FUEL TANK 25 U.S. Gallons (95 Liters)****
ENGINE OIL
4.7L - with Filter 5.7L (6.0 qts.)
5.9L - with Filter 4.7L (5.0 qts.)
COOLING SYSTEM
4.7L 12.6L (13.3 qts.)***
4.7L with rear heat 13.4L (14.1 qts.)***
5.9L 15.5L (16.3 qts.)***
5.9L with rear heat 16.3L (17.2 qts.)***
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Service Fill - 46RE 3.8L (4.0 qts)
O-haul Fill - 46RE 9.1-9.5L (19-20 pts)
Service Fill - 545RFE 2WD - 5.2 L (11 pts.)
4WD - 6.2 L (13 pts.)
O-haul Fill - 545RFE 13.33L (28.0 pts.)
Dry fill capacity Depending on type and size of internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may vary. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/AUTOMATIC/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
TRANSFER CASE
NV133 1.18L (2.5 pts.)
NV233 1.18L (2.5 pts.)
NV244 1.35L (2.85 pts.)
FRONT AXLE
C205F 1.66L (3.5 pts.)
REAR AXLE
8 1/4 in. 2.1L (4.4 pts.)**
9 1/4 in. 2.3L (4.9 pts.)**
**When equipped with Trac-lok, include 118 ml (4 oz.) of Limited Slip Additive.
*** Includes 0.9L (1.0 qts.) for coolant reservoir.
****Nominal refill capacities are shown. A variation may be observed from vehicle to vehicle due to manufacturing tolerance and refill procedure.
Power Steering
Power steering fluid capacities are dependent on engine/chassis options as well as steering gear/cooler options. Depending on type and size of internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these capacities may vary.

 

My A/C blows cold(id like it colder), when going down the road, but blows lukewarm when idling at a stop light or just in park idling.I also have issues with the heater in winter it blows warm but not warm enough where id go far with it if it was real cold out. Im not sure if the 2 problems are connected with eachother or if they are complete different things... Id like to figure this out so maybe this winter we wont freeze so much again. When sitting the heat will warm up the truck sorta nice but it has to sit for a long time running. and when you start to go it cools off fast and you have to leave on low setting or it will blow cooler it seems... Just trying to remember it all since last winter kinda tough... thanks All!

 

Hello fellow members,

I have a 2001 Durango that isn't cooling very well and yesterday I did some trouble shooting.

First I replaced the Low Pressure valve core because I saw evidence of a small leak.

I then pulled a vacuum down to 26 in Hg and then cut the pump off and the pressure dropped to about 21 in Hg but held there for over 10 minutes. I was using some old gauges and hoses from a friend and I think maybe that's why the pressure fell off. After confirming that the system would hold a vacuum I then evacuated the system for another 10 minutes.

I then recharged the system with and checked my pressures. Here are the results:

Outside Temp: 86 degrees
Low Side Pressure: 30 PSI
High Side Pressure: 135 PSI

According to the Dodge Service manual, my pressures should have been.

Low = 25 ~ 35
High = 170 ~ 220

The troubleshooting guide for this condition says the following could be the causes:

Low refrigerant
Faulty compressor
Restricted flow through the evaporator core.

I know the refrigerant amount was correct so it has to be one of the other 2. Also my rear unit doesn't really get cool at all compared to the front which cools only minimal, not anything like it used to.

I've priced the parts for a total change out of everything: Compressor, evaporators, condenser, dryer, expansion valves, gaskets, etc. for about $500.00
Labor is not a factor since I’m doing the work myself.

I was considering just replacing the compressor, dryer, expansion valve, and maybe the condenser and seeing if my pressures come up to normal (hoping for the evaporators to not be restricted).

If I could get around not taking the evaporator cores out then that would save a lot of time and work. On the flip side of this it would only be 2 more things to do so that the system would be all "new" again.

My Durango is about to 11 years old and I think the system has run its life and needs and overhaul.

Anyone have any advice on the better route to take??

 

2000 4.7 with 140,000 miles.
warm air at idle.
cool air at higher RPM's (not cold, cool)
very high pressure on low side, drops some with increased RPM's
released some pressure, but it went back up??
any ideas??

 

2K durango front AC unit only 5.2.

I am redoing the AC system, comp, reciever-drier, expansion valve block, high and low sensors.
There is the line coming from the comp to the exp valve that has a bulb shape midway????? what is it?? and should it be replaced?
reading several areas but cannot find the oil level for refilling each component any ideas????
would a flush be recommended?

Note* this is the second comp and drier, the comp was a reman installing new this go around. I have a garage that will do the evac, vac, and recharge Im doing the parts labor only.

 

I have joined the fraternity of those that have AC issues, so far I have changed the blower motor the AC resistor under the dash.
It was working just fine, but I have a problem with the resistor again. One wire in the resistor is getting so hot that it melts the resistor. I can make it work if I bend the plug end of the resistor.
I'm not sure where to start so I can or should I say my WIFE can use her AC again.
The back AC works just fine

 

if the wires are getting hot enough to melt the wires the first thing you need to do is to replace the wire harness going into the plug, you should be able to get this part a dealer and it should be a bigger higher current section of wire, you cut your old one out and solder the new one in, also replace the resistor at this point. However the cause of the high current is likely the fan drawing too much, this could be a blockage or something external causing the fan motor to work too hard, or (much more likely) your fan is dying again.

 

Didn't see a similar issue so I'll put it out there .. 2002 durango 4.7 ..just got the evap replaced and heater core ( reading though the earlier threads I didn't want to pay 8+ hours labor and next winter have issues ..Problem W/O specs.inc. rear a/c very cold..front a/c luke ? cool..definatley not blowing as cold as rear..4 years ago I had the Diverter valve assembly? retro fitted/replaced because of the defroster/ vent issue.. any ideas because at 1200 usd I'm at wits end

 

whenever you open the a/c yous hould replace the drier and acculator, and then vacuum the system to dry it out before refilling, did you do this? (usually you will have to have a shop do this) also did you put the correct amount of freon back into the system (2.44 lbs iirc)