My '98 ANv was originally sold in Minnesota or Michigan where and/or when the roads were salted with rock salt.
It then spent a number of years in Alaska where the winters and the use of calcium chloride slowed the rusting way down.
I've now taken it to Hawai'i.
The constant high humidity has accelerated the rusting and is now causing a variety of problems.

The problem of concern right now is the loss of the LH tailgate pivot to rust.
I've looked around and cannot find replacement parts available.
I need to be able to use the tailgate in the lowered position.


Parts manual part numbers

Tailgate and rusted out LH pivot

Rusted out LH pivot

I'm thinking of drilling it out and jerry rigging a bolt to use as the pivot, but don't feel that is a good work around.
Any suggestions on how to deal with this?

EDIT:
I hadn't looked at the other side before I posted this.
It is also badly rusted, although not as bad.
Whatever I do will need to be done to both sides.

I'm thinking of grinding the old pivots down flush, applying a rust hardener, making a SS plate to install a modded replacement pivot in, then install that over the old pivot location.
I'm still looking for suggestions for a less complex fix for this.

 

Sorry to say but I really doubt you'll find replacement parts for a 19 year old vehicle.

Fabricating your own replacements would work or check with a body shop.

 

Finding the parts isn't really that hard, I simply googled the part numbers and got several results, most from Amazon, Ebay, and the "overstock" websites. I'd say your main problem might be clearing it out and prepping it for new parts, maybe if you have the tools (as you seem to) template onto a piece of plate steel. Then carefully dremel/cut the old out, cut the pattern in the plate steel (maybe 1/16" thick) and weld or rivit the new plate into place to install the new parts. Otherwise, if you're able to clean up the existing rusted mounts, fitting the new parts might just work.

 

try this guys solution.

 

The video looks good.
I think I can make it work.
I hadn't considered pulling the tail light assy. for access.
That makes it easy.

They showed an ad for a tailgate pivot [hinge] kit with the video.
I said, Aha!
But, it is available only for Ford or GM products.
Although, one can be used on a Dodge 2500.
If I still had my DCTD, it would work.
I can still find nothing that works for a Dak.

As far as the insinuation about my Dak getting old:
Say what you want about my wife, but you'd better watch what you say about my horse.

Thanks guys.

EDIT:
@Skreelink

I took a closer look at the part drawing.
#13 - Is the plastic bushing that fits over the rusted out parts.
#14 - Are the pivots on the tailgate. [I did not show this part of the diagram] They do not need replacing.
#15 - Are the plastic bumpers that fit into the end of the rusted out parts.

The actual pivot posts mounted on the bed are not listed.
My assumption is that they are welded into the bed.
I'll know when I pull the tail light.
The part numbers for #s 13, 14 & 15 can be found on line, but will probably not be of use if the replacement needs to be modded.

 

Yours looked like the ones on my nephew's 99. They are welded on. I cut off what was left of them and used a bolt with a nut as a washer. The nut pushed the bolt head out far enough and gave the tailgate something to pivot on. Just make sure your nut isn't too big so the side of the tail gate with the cut out will fit over it.

I'd suggest using a flat washer, lock washer, then a lock nut on the "inside" part that you'll access from the tail light. The bolt came loose on the side with the cut out which allowed a lot of slop but also made it nearly impossible to remove the tailgate (probably should have used a slightly smaller nut on the tailgate side of that bolt). Anyway, it was tough to re-tighten it. Otherwise, once everything was tightened back up the fix works great.

Mike

 

I should have gotten back sooner. But, my interests wandered off to other things.
I have made a good replacement for the rusted out post.

I picked up a bolt, 2 nuts and a flat washer. A lock washer would have been a good idea. The bolt and nuts were chosen so that the flats were almost the same dia. as the hinge receptacle on the tailgate. I do not remember exactly. But, I think I used a 5/16" dia SS bolt with nuts and washer to match.

1st
I installed a nut on the bolt tight to the bolt head.
2nd
I ground the points off the nut and bolt head until they fit nicely but not sloppily into the hinge receptacle.
3rd
I ground the bolt head down until the head and nut were as tall as the receptacle was deep.
4th
I drilled a hole centered in the old hinge location.
5th
My largest drill was a bit too small. So, I used a rat tail file to enlarge the hole so that the bolt shank fit snugly.
6th
I installed the bolt assembly into the hole and added the washer and 2nd nut to the inside end of the bolt.
The space inside fender area was so tight that I had to use a box-end and turn it over after each bit of tightening movement. My ratchet couldn't get enough movement to use it. The bolt head was held with a channel lock.
I bought a 2" + bolt. A bolt just long enough for the 2 nuts, the washer[s] and the sheet metal thickness would have been much easier to get tightened into place.

My tailgate now works as good, if not better, than new.

The other side will need replacing some time in the future. It will be more difficult because the bolt head/nut combination will need more grinding to make the larger parallel flats that lock the tailgate into place. Then, it will need to be positioned properly as it is tightened into place.

 

I would be tempted to put a large diameter washer on both sides, to distribute the force over a larger area..... If there is room.....

 

I thought about doing that. But, I would probably have needed to grind off some of the hinge receptacle[s] to get the tailgate back into place, especially if I added one on both sides
Plus, although I didn't mention it, I did grind off the rough rusted off area where the hinge post was. The surrounding fender sheet metal was in good condition. Then, between the area of the nut/bolt head on one side and the large SS fender type washer/nut on the other, there is now more support than the original factory install had.
The one bad thing I didn't do that I should have, was to apply a protective finish to the ground off surface under the bolt head. That area will eventually begin to rust out.

Thanks, your post has reminded me of that. I'll be going into town in a few days. I'll pick up something to do it with then.
I will need to take it apart, clean it up, and apply the finish. Then, put it all back together again after it dries.
A PIA, but it needs to be done.