Any interest here in better mpg mods?
Full belly pan... front end to back past the axle. You mentioned it was from the front to the rear axle... maybe a misprint?

The '08 intake manifold will shift the power up the RPM range, bottom end torque will definitely go down. It has to do with the runner length to the intake port in the head. Read a thread where a guy had a dead spot in 2000~3200 rpms after doing the '08 manifold swap, he was not tuned for it yet.
The '08 intake manifold will shift the power up the RPM range, bottom end torque will definitely go down. It has to do with the runner length to the intake port in the head. Read a thread where a guy had a dead spot in 2000~3200 rpms after doing the '08 manifold swap, he was not tuned for it yet.
This setup works extremely well on the ram, bottom end torque retained, benefit of more flow thru the air box... No room on the airbox for this setup in the Dak but have not given up on it yet.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads...#post-29500042

also worth mentioning, with this setup, mpg's in the colder weather are still holding up around 21.7~22.0 mpg's in crappy weather too... pretty happy about that.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads...#post-29500042

also worth mentioning, with this setup, mpg's in the colder weather are still holding up around 21.7~22.0 mpg's in crappy weather too... pretty happy about that.
Maybe i didn't use the right words... i meant the cover i made was from under the front bumper to the steering rack.
Mainly to maintain the radiator airflow and engine cooling, and possibly gain some mpg's.
I might consider building something like a full belly pan next summer.
When torque is decreased and create a dead spot, i'm definitely not changing my intake, i could buy a tune, but i don't have anyone who can tune it for me over here, there's no knowledge around ore mechanics familiar with these.....
Basicly i can only make changes when i could do them myself, and with parts available over here.
Mainly to maintain the radiator airflow and engine cooling, and possibly gain some mpg's.
I might consider building something like a full belly pan next summer.
When torque is decreased and create a dead spot, i'm definitely not changing my intake, i could buy a tune, but i don't have anyone who can tune it for me over here, there's no knowledge around ore mechanics familiar with these.....
Basicly i can only make changes when i could do them myself, and with parts available over here.
Thinking outside the box....
I could make me a hot are intake for the winter season, if i build a box around the CAI Filter and make the intake of the box on the back of the engine bay, towards the exhaust/manifold
I could make me a hot are intake for the winter season, if i build a box around the CAI Filter and make the intake of the box on the back of the engine bay, towards the exhaust/manifold
have never seen either of those on any dak...
Hot air intake, would need to find a way to pull air from the exhaust manifold area's... or heck even on top of the intake manifold since it is so hot up there. Where ever it ends up, the air box hose needs to be pointed towards the firewall or... the front grill needs to be blocked in the area so there is no direct airflow into the intake tube.
On the tune... I may have a path to get you tuned... under your control. Think about this for a bit, since I am going to get HP Tuners hardware that supports the JTEC controller, I will be doing my own tuning. If you did the same you could leverage what I do and expand/modify it to meet your needs. I think the minimal hardware setup is $300, $250 for the hardware & $50 for the credit to lock a tune to your truck. Once that is done then the sky is the limit within the bounds of the controller and what HPT gives us to work with. Could take my tune and have it as a starting point.
When I get there, going to be focusing on all bottom end torque, could care less about top end HP/TQ numbers, its all about part throttle torque below 2500ish rpms.
When I did the Ram (diesel), I leveraged every change that gave me more throttle response, aluminum driveshaft, aluminum pulleys and light weight wheels. All of it allowed me to pull fuel back to maintain the performance level I had established.
anyways, food for thought.
Hot air intake, would need to find a way to pull air from the exhaust manifold area's... or heck even on top of the intake manifold since it is so hot up there. Where ever it ends up, the air box hose needs to be pointed towards the firewall or... the front grill needs to be blocked in the area so there is no direct airflow into the intake tube.
On the tune... I may have a path to get you tuned... under your control. Think about this for a bit, since I am going to get HP Tuners hardware that supports the JTEC controller, I will be doing my own tuning. If you did the same you could leverage what I do and expand/modify it to meet your needs. I think the minimal hardware setup is $300, $250 for the hardware & $50 for the credit to lock a tune to your truck. Once that is done then the sky is the limit within the bounds of the controller and what HPT gives us to work with. Could take my tune and have it as a starting point.
When I get there, going to be focusing on all bottom end torque, could care less about top end HP/TQ numbers, its all about part throttle torque below 2500ish rpms.
When I did the Ram (diesel), I leveraged every change that gave me more throttle response, aluminum driveshaft, aluminum pulleys and light weight wheels. All of it allowed me to pull fuel back to maintain the performance level I had established.
anyways, food for thought.
Oh yeah, after this tank drains, I swap plugs to a fresh set of NGK's. Drove it into work so miles will start piling up... (70ish miles/day), will be interesting to see where I sit for current mpg's with the front bearing fixed. (was 15.9 corrected)
I just got home and it's already to dark to shoot some pictures, i will take those saturday.....to be continued.
I will take a look and see if i can make a airbox for the CAI this weekend as well.
I'm going to investigate the JTEC controller and if it's available over here, and what it will cost me shipped from the USA.
My commute roundtrips are 50 miles, and i'm doing about 16 mpg, Tomorrow i will add a gauge on torque to display the mpg's, i have it set to European km/l right now.
Btw, i changed my plugs with the champion copper core's.
I will take a look and see if i can make a airbox for the CAI this weekend as well.
I'm going to investigate the JTEC controller and if it's available over here, and what it will cost me shipped from the USA.
My commute roundtrips are 50 miles, and i'm doing about 16 mpg, Tomorrow i will add a gauge on torque to display the mpg's, i have it set to European km/l right now.
Btw, i changed my plugs with the champion copper core's.
I found the HP Tuners website.
I read from 1996- so i do... but i looked at the supported vehicle list, and mine 2000 Dakota 4.7L is not listed.
The 2000 Durango 4.7L is listed ??
Not sure now because off the PCM change from 1 wire to 2 wire can signals in 2001.
I think i need a lot of help figuring this out....by the looks of it, i should buy the MPVI 2+ and the Pro feature set.MMPVI2+. Together with Pro Feature SetPVI2MPVI2+. Together with Pro Feature Set+.MPVI2+. Together with Pro Feature Set Together with Pro Feature Set
I read from 1996- so i do... but i looked at the supported vehicle list, and mine 2000 Dakota 4.7L is not listed.
The 2000 Durango 4.7L is listed ??
Not sure now because off the PCM change from 1 wire to 2 wire can signals in 2001.
I think i need a lot of help figuring this out....by the looks of it, i should buy the MPVI 2+ and the Pro feature set.MMPVI2+. Together with Pro Feature SetPVI2MPVI2+. Together with Pro Feature Set+.MPVI2+. Together with Pro Feature Set Together with Pro Feature Set








